I though about selling..now im thinking of cloning it.

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my goal was a solid 15k usd , i have more thant 25 canadian in the car , and wanted at least 15 usd for it , i can always go lower but theres very expensice parts on it , a bodie differential , 8 3/4 , 3.91 sg clutch unit , moser axles , 2500 stall with a brand new 727 , super stock leaf springs , frame connectors , scs cheetah shifter , new gas tank , new windshield , new wiring harness , paint and body was done 10-11 years ago , dual plane intake - holley dp carb - etc etc , i was starting it at 19k , because i got caught in the game ... ive seen a lot of shitty and bad dusters for sale for almost 10-15k more , and i was tempted to ask 19k to have an honest offer for it , but i think ill have to take a step back and think about all of this , maybe just removing all the aftermarket parts and put it back like it was from factory , its a very fast car , all the drivetrain was in a 71 demon that ran 11.60 with slicks couple of years ago , so this is a high 11 -12.xx flat car , but im getting older and i dont want to beat the crap out of it anymore , i have a ratty 68 fury with a 318 and i just love driving it , so yes..i am confused with this rare duster and its future !

I really like e58 dusters, yours is cool too, and yes rare, but rare doesn’t always equal desirable or worth a lot. I would think if it was mint condition with everything original and numbers matching it ‘might’ (on its very best day if you found the only 2 people in the world who just had to have your car) be worth 19k usd.

That said, yours is such a far departure from the way it came from the factory in that nothing is original or rare about it (floor mounted shifter, custom dash, fiberglass bits, magnum crate motor, just about everything is changed). Unfortunately a car is not always worth the sum of parts put in it. Especially yours. People often way over spend on even the truest and rarest of cars when restoring them and almost always lose money on them when it comes time to sell. I a, pretty sure no one would ever pay 19k usd or even the 15k usd that you were hoping for on this non-running car with issues.

If you love it, keep it and sort it out and drive it. If you want to sell it I might actually be interested in it as is providing I could see a lot better,pictures of the underneath, and usual suspect areas for rust. Eastern Canadian cars can often have a lot of issues with this. An offer from me would be a lot lower than your 15k usd target, and would also be in Canadian dollars. That said I’m also in Canada and would be able to go through with it without all the issues and grief a US buyer would face trying to import it.
 
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This car is rumored to be a "rcmp" pursuit car , because it was very rare to order a 360 car at this date of production late december Xx 1975, most of all 360 car were left overs from 1975 , and this one has the *special handling* fender tag + deleted cats from factory stamped on the broadcast sheet , it was build exactly like a A38 police Valiant of the era No cats , dual exhaust + 360"hp" 4bbl car
Wow! Ok,That is interesting. I didn't realize you were in Canada. The problem still remains that to sell it in the USA it has to meet emissions requirements out here. I would think that would also represent issues depending where the potential buyer lives.
Unfortunately you've modified the car drastically from how it originally left the factory and that severely hurts the value of it in a serious collectors eyes. The engine isn't original. Fiberglass hood and fenders,etc. This is the risk people take when they decide to modify cars to their tastes. Most folks also realize that restoring (or customizing) a car isn't something you do to turn a profit,but because you love the car. Most guys will NEVER recoup all the money they spent on their cars,even ones restored to factory specs.Thats just the reality of it. Classic cars are basically something you buy with your heart not your head.
 
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^^^All above are excellent right to the point comments.
I see the
"malaise"era cars beginning to appreciate...some. But...... give them 15 more years maybe.

But here are some points other than the above.
The collector car market in general has been soft quite a while. Easiest cars to sell are those supper desirable and need nothing high end and higher priced cars. Rich people always have plenty of disposable income, the lower income guys is the toughest market. You are asking a price that does not fall in the lower income groups so much. Your car is rare, but like said above....lets face it, your model is not that the rich guy buys. It is a "tweener". Therefore a tougher sale. But it only takes one buyer to make a sale! I would think address any mechanical issues, consider any reasonable change to positively affect the sale. I would also be slow to clone this car.
Buyers today want a turn key car. Even the lower end buyer. When you get into the $15,000 range, they want it all good and to their liking!!!! No engine or mechanical issues. Runs and drives GOOD! They should find few flaws.
Hardest classic car to sell is one taken apart. The next hardest is one NOT running and driving. Then get into the higher $ range, and the buyer wants it all to his liking. Painted bumpers and "rare model" do not go together.
Location. These days, not too many buyers want to travel or the guy paying a transport, he is the upper end buyer.
Or unless you have a car he really wants and is comfortabnle buying with pics and vid and over the phone.

If you advertise your car adequately, for a reasonable amount of time, at a "realistic" price and no buyer, it is priced above the market for that particular car at that time and at that location.
 
As the last of it's kind, it is going to be appreciated for what it is
Unless you need to sell,Id hang on to it and do what you can to get it back to stock 76 spec,look.
I understand a budget may be in play. Don't be rash and later find you made a mistake.
 
ive seen a lot of shitty and bad dusters for sale for almost 10-15k more , and i was tempted to ask 19k to have an honest offer for it , but i think ill have to take a step back and think about it.
I see a lot of high prices on ratty cars too. But asking isn't the same as getting. I look everyday online and the same cars sit forever and don't sell. Some have been sitring there for years on facebook marketplace,offerup,etc.. A lot of times people won't even make an offer on something if the price is too high because they feel the seller is just going to be unreasonable.
 
Put some nice rims on it. Add some exterior dress up. Fix the mechanical issues. Drive the **** out of it.

You couldnt get t roofs in a TA till 77. Yours is the precursor.
 
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Put some nice rims on it. Add some exterior dress up. Fix the mechanical issues. Drive the **** out of it.

You could get t roofs in a TA till 77. Yours is the precursor.
You could get t-tops on Trans Ams until 2002,first year was 1976. They had Hurst hatch roofs installed until 1978 when GM's Fisher Body made factory T top cars.
 
I see a lot of high prices on ratty cars too. But asking isn't the same as getting. I look everyday online and the same cars sit forever and don't sell. Some have been sitring there for years on facebook marketplace,offerup,etc.. A lot of times people won't even make an offer on something if the price is too high because they feel the seller is just going to be unreasonable.
I go to FB Marketplace and bookmark cars I have an interest in or just what to see what the market might be doing as for actually selling. Then I can check back every week, month, 3 months, 6 months, whatever and see what was marked sold, Sure that does not tell me what it sold for, just that it sold. It gives a person an idea opd whjat models are actually selling for what the ask price was.

If a car is obviously overpriced and just came on the market, and I am interested in it, I bookmark it and see if it is still for sale in a month or so. I will never call the seller in a car that is stupidly priced for what it is..

As time marches on, I see fewer and fewer hobbiest, in general, that have any basic knowledge of mechanicals. So many people out there today, be it buying or selling, have NO idea about a car other than it starts and runs. It makes it harder to sell a classic. And for people to feel safe in buying an older car.

OK so I understand the world is full of people wanting to sell off a car for whatever reason, but.... the would seems to be full of scammers and liars these days. Makes it hard on the classic car hobby!
 
Joe, I thought you got out of the A body game..

my goal was a solid 15k usd , i have more thant 25 canadian in the car , and wanted at least 15 usd for it , i can always go lower but theres very expensice parts on it , a bodie differential , 8 3/4 , 3.91 sg clutch unit , moser axles , 2500 stall with a brand new 727 , super stock leaf springs , frame connectors , scs cheetah shifter , new gas tank , new windshield , new wiring harness , paint and body was done 10-11 years ago , dual plane intake - holley dp carb - etc etc , i was starting it at 19k , because i got caught in the game ... ive seen a lot of shitty and bad dusters for sale for almost 10-15k more , and i was tempted to ask 19k to have an honest offer for it , but i think ill have to take a step back and think about all of this , maybe just removing all the aftermarket parts and put it back like it was from factory , its a very fast car , all the drivetrain was in a 71 demon that ran 11.60 with slicks couple of years ago , so this is a high 11 -12.xx flat car , but im getting older and i dont want to beat the crap out of it anymore , i have a ratty 68 fury with a 318 and i just love driving it , so yes..i am confused with this rare duster and its future !
 
I think you’re getting tripped up on a few items.

Regardless what ear era the vehicle is from, thinking you can sell the car for what you have spent fixing/upgrading/restoring it will always lead to frustration. Add in that your Duster isn’t the highly sought after 70-72 vintage and you’re even more underwater. Even selling a modern used car with brand new tires doesn’t mean you will be able to add $800 to the price to recoup the exact price of the new tires. It’s not a 1:1 ratio but something less.

Then there’s the narrower buyers pool for the 73 to 76 A bodies (compared to the 67 to 72 era) which puts you behind the 8 ball already. I suspect (and me owning a 75 Scamp has me in that narrower buyers pool mindset and I’m in Canada as well) buyers in that pool would prefer originality on those cars compared to modified ones that have components from earlier (8 3/4 rear end) and newer (crate engine) eras. Factor in your fibreglass fenders and bumpers and, aside from the sunroof, fender tag and VIN, there doesn’t appear to be much else from the 73 to 76 Duster on your car that the narrower buyers pool would be attracted to in the first place.

Finally, add in the work the new buyer would have to do to get it street legal (wipers) and running (tuning the engine), let alone having the charm/bits the 73/76 Duster came with from the factory, and its several thousand more $$ to get there after the purchase price.

Your Duster, as is, caters to an extremely small buyers pool which explains why you haven’t had many bites.
 
I read through your past ads. It looks like a nice car and a reasonable price. Edit, I didn't notice the running issue that needs to be taken care of. If you don't mind some constructive criticism, i think it needs some different wheels, something chrome and flashy, chrome bumpers, and a stripe package of some sort. The car is just too plain looking on the outside. Just my suggestions to make it look more attractive. Here is an example:

View attachment 1716368427
I think that white is the most underrated clorm for Mopars. I agree a few enhancements make a difference, but the stance and black wheels make it look badass. I saw this car at Moparty and think it looks great.

20240914_113305.jpg
 
There are still survivor 340 cars out there to be had for what you are wanting for that car. Just something to keep in mind. I don't think anyone here is knocking the car....I think we all agree it's very nice and we like it. It just seems that your pricing goals are a bit of a stretch. Heck, I hope somebody comes and offers you 30K, but it ain't happenin.
 
Just food for thought. Rare 1 year only 79 Chrysler 300.E58 360.Factory dual exhaust.
Put it up for sale @ $6000. got laughed at and criticized by many on the Bodies sites.
Sometimes it is what it is.Even had the OE wheels to go with the sale.

View attachment 1716368485
giphy.gif

f448cdb3bb7d6626d2d7fe3b1777a631.gif

I think that white is the most underrated clorm for Mopars. I agree a few enhancements make a difference, but the stance and black wheels make it look badass. I saw this car at Moparty and think it looks great.

View attachment 1716368553


It needs 'stance'. Otherwise?
giphy.gif
 
I think that white is the most underrated clorm for Mopars. I agree a few enhancements make a difference, but the stance and black wheels make it look badass. I saw this car at Moparty and think it looks great.

View attachment 1716368553
In all honesty I think the Dodge Demons are better looking than the Dusters. Nicer front ends and cooler looking tail lights. 70-72 Dusters would be my second choice for that bodystyle.
 
Here is a classic car condition scale. Also remember that any money and labor you put into the car accounts for zero for the car's worth. There are only two contributors to the car's worth. Condition and whatever the market is bearing for similar cars at the given time. That's IT. In this list, they left out the 0 class cars, but there is such. Those are cars that stay stores in controlled environments and are never driven and trailed everywhere when or IF they are ever moved. 0 cars do exist, but they are so few and far between there's no need in their inclusion. Because of the custom work done on yours to suit your taste and it needing repair, I would surmise your car falls somewhere between "very good" and "good".

  • 1: EXCELLENT
    Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area or perfect original with components operating or appearing as new; a 95-plus point show car that isn’t driven.
  • 2: FINE
    Well-restored or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original; also, an extremely well-maintained original showing very minimal wear.
  • 3: VERY GOOD
    Completely operable original or “older restoration” showing wear; also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts.
  • 4: GOOD
    A drivable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional; also, a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be “excellent,” but the car is mostly useable “as is.”
  • 5: RESTORABLE
    Needs complete restoration of body, chassis and interior; may or may not be running, but isn’t weathered, wrecked or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.
  • 6: PARTS CAR
    May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts.
 
I'll add #7:
A car rotted or stripped beyond recognition, any desirable parts are either missing or in such deteriorated condition as to be completely unusable. Such a vehicle usually falls into the owner's category of "I'm gonna restore it someday", or "I saw one on Barret-Jackson, so I know what it's worth".
Fair market value is usually what the current rate is for scrap iron.
 
I too thought the '75-76 Duster with a 360 was a single exhaust with a catalytic converter.

But after a long discussion on air pumps on a Little Red Express and EH1/E58 motor specs and looking at the dealer info from '75-76 I am convinced that the Duster got the same motor as the '74. No idea on what manifolds it used, but it was definitely a dual exhaust and didn't have cats. And I don't think it was available in CA, they were a Federal option only.

Personally, I prefer the '74-76 A-Bodies with the caveat that a '75-76 might fall under some emissions blankets that I don't want to deal with since cats hit around that time. I am building a '73 and wish it was a '74 due to the 3 point seatbelts and fender braces. Not impossible to add, but nice to start with both. Either way, I like the later cars for those options.

Not to say I don't like the '70-72, my favorite body style is the '70-71 Duster. But I like the later Duster body style enough that if I went looking for one I would try and find a '74 without the crash bumpers rather than find a '70-72 and add the seatbelts and fender braces.

That said, I think the OP needs to keep the car the way it is and either sell it or fix it. It is rare with the E58 option and even with the non-stock parts it will go up in value. Maybe not to the same level as a '71 340 Duster, but more than a '76 Duster with a slant 6 regardless of the numbers matching motor or not.
 
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I'll add #7:
A car rotted or stripped beyond recognition, any desirable parts are either missing or in such deteriorated condition as to be completely unusable. Such a vehicle usually falls into the owner's category of "I'm gonna restore it someday", or "I saw one on Barret-Jackson, so I know what it's worth".
Fair market value is usually what the current rate is for scrap iron.
I was thinkin 6 covered that, but yeah I think you're right that there's a slot beyond 6. LOL
 
I had a 75 Duster 360 with California Emission Control and
as I recall it was a single exhaust with a cat.

But within a few weeks it was a Stock Eliminator car without
anything.
 
@TomMoparMan bought this one way back when. (I think it was a year old) It's black with a white strip instead of white with a needed black stripe. it was a 360 4 barrel car.

1000000027.jpg


054.jpg


086.jpg
 
I had a 75 Duster 360 with California Emission Control and
as I recall it was a single exhaust with a cat.

But within a few weeks it was a Stock Eliminator car without
anything.

Must have been an E56 car.

1740092201573.png
 
I had a 75 Duster 360 with California Emission Control and
as I recall it was a single exhaust with a cat.

But within a few weeks it was a Stock Eliminator car without
anything.
That's how to do it! lol
 
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