I wanted power windows for my 66 dart but I"m cheap!

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Man that is fast. I wonder if the motor will be stressed?

I always thought is seemed like something was cutting power to the motor. I guess not, its just mechanical. I guess its OK for the motor to be stopped that way.

I may do this to my 69. I like the window crank switch idea.
 
Idaho said:
Man that is fast. I wonder if the motor will be stressed?

I always thought is seemed like something was cutting power to the motor. I guess not, its just mechanical. I guess its OK for the motor to be stopped that way.

I may do this to my 69. I like the window crank switch idea.
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I looked at the wife's minivan and it's setup the same way. mechanical limits too!
She's got the "one touch" and the drivers side goes all the way down or harder push and it'll stop when she let's go.. that's NOT going into the dart. I can just see myself getting someones fingers caught in the widow because it so darn fast.

I'm thinking about adding a normally closed micro switch to each end of the travel just to be safe (and making the top one adjustable) it won't take much just 2 switches and some extension wire. piece of cake really . now that I've finally wrapped my head around the 4 switch on one side and one on each window.

I had to draw it out and think about it for quite a while just to see how it worked.
 
you could incorporate some sort of voltage regulator into your wiring to drop the voltage down before it gets to the motor .....which would in effect slow down the motor speed. You could also use the dial style regulator which would allow you to adjust the motor speed to you exact preferance just by turning the little thumb dial.

Just a thought.

cool idea though!
 
DusterDude72 said:
you could incorporate some sort of voltage regulator into your wiring to drop the voltage down before it gets to the motor .....which would in effect slow down the motor speed. You could also use the dial style regulator which would allow you to adjust the motor speed to you exact preferance just by turning the little thumb dial.

Just a thought.

cool idea though!
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yup got a motor control unit that I didn't use on the led's I'll add that in and see if I can get it to slow down enough. if not I'll add a voltage regultaor to it to kick the voltage down, worst comes to worst I'll load resistor it down.
 
Does anyone else remember some of the power windows back in the day really did move very fast?
 
Idaho said:
Man that is fast. I wonder if the motor will be stressed?

I always thought is seemed like something was cutting power to the motor. I guess not, its just mechanical. I guess its OK for the motor to be stopped that way.

I may do this to my 69. I like the window crank switch idea.
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I just got back from a short trip up to Georgia to visit a sick friend and He just happens to own a beautiful 65 new yorker. so I played with his windows and discovered that they are just as fast as mine are. So I won't be messing with mine on the speed , but will be adding a down stop limit switch for my piece of mind.. it'll be a piece of cake adding it in and a good safety feature for the motor.
 
Idaho said:
Show us how its done :)
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heck it's super easy .. get yourself a micro switch that is normally closed, that way it completes the wire circuit.
bend a small bracket and screw it to the inner door structure and attach the switch and wiring from the down wire setup. So that when you have the window in the down position it will open the wiring circuit by hitting the switch and opening the circuit.

Since the switch is only for the down wire (basically you just open the ground) you can hit the up button and it'll go up it the same wires going to the motor but different connections at the poles on the switch. that closes the down circuit again so that you can roll the window down again.
since the switch is double pole and double throw it'll work.
if the switch is single throw double pole it won't work.
The bad part is you have to run the wire all that way back to the switch and that 's a long stretch in the dart since the switches are going in a custom center console.

I'll see if I can find my mini switches that are normally closed and wire it up and test it . using video of course.
 
AWESOME... it is good to know that you can make these work. Putting Mopar stock parts in your car is so much nicer than hitting the aftermarket.

LOVE IT.
 
Very clever. I had a rough thought after changing the electric window mechanism in my 2002 T&C that it might be possible to adapt it to our 60's cars. Most new cars use a similar design (see ebay). Instead of the old arm lever, there is a track at each end with a block that moves on a cable. The cable is in a metal sheath like a speedometer cable. The sheaths cross over to form an X between the tracks, so it is like a circulating loop with the motor in the center. I would bet there are only a few different sizes to match the multitude of car models. If you can figure a way to mount the tracks inside the door, you would be done. One issue is that our door glass is thicker and heavier, but probably not a big deal since new cars have more friction from their tighter weather seals.
 
BillGrissom said:
Very clever. I had a rough thought after changing the electric window mechanism in my 2002 T&C that it might be possible to adapt it to our 60's cars. Most new cars use a similar design (see ebay). Instead of the old arm lever, there is a track at each end with a block that moves on a cable. The cable is in a metal sheath like a speedometer cable. The sheaths cross over to form an X between the tracks, so it is like a circulating loop with the motor in the center. I would bet there are only a few different sizes to match the multitude of car models. If you can figure a way to mount the tracks inside the door, you would be done. One issue is that our door glass is thicker and heavier, but probably not a big deal since new cars have more friction from their tighter weather seals.
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Mercury's and some Fords have a single track type regulator that has mounting studs at the top and two holes at the bottom for pop rivets. I was thinking that these might work as well. It is cable type using pulleys. The motor would have to be mounted somewhere but I don't think that would be a big deal.
 
1mean7Ddart said:
very cool:headbang:!!!! wonder if i can do this to a 73 door?:-k
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if you do it the same way as I did then "yep" it'll work the same way. get some spare regulators and have at it. there should be 3 or 4 rivets holding in the handle mechanism. drill them out and (oops WAIT STOP DON'T remove handle mechanism yet):banghead:
Please remove Spring FIRST! ok NOW remove crank mechanism. whew saved your fingers at least. then make a plate to mount your window motor on holes included mount the motor to the regulator. You must check that you have a right and left motor mounted to the correct regulator. motor usually goes pointing down. tack weld motor plate into position that clears everything and wire it up.



I looked at the later type of power window motors and decided I didn't want to go into that much work, but it could be done (and the window would be slower to raise)
the ford ones won't work on the rear section so that was ruled out for me. now as soon as I can get some backup rear convertible or hardtop regulators I'll see if I can get it to fit in the rear section.
 
I know you guy's were asking what stops the window and I thought that it was just the gears.

welp! I was Wrong!:confused: I found a bracket in my parts bin and didn't know where it went so I looked at a set of doors that I hadn't taken apart and right in the top center of the door is a bolt/bracket combo that is adjustable up/down that acts as as a stop for the up on the window. duh , I looked in the manual and it showed there too in the glass adjustment procedures. bow I gotta find the bolt and clip that holds it in!
 
I did someting similar 25 years ago in my -64 Dart GT. I used windowmotors from Volvo 740, I was working at a Volvo plant at the time and the motors just happend to follow me home one day. The gears was as if they was made for a Mopar. And I did not have to do much work to make the motors fit.
 
Stay away from the Ford cable regulators. The cable snaps easy. My friend has a 2005 F250 and he has to replace it. Hmmmmm I might have to the same to my 65 dart. I work at a part store so I will have to look around for the motor. What year did u get yours out of?
 
As all that being said and done.
the Front power windows work great now that I've put in new felt and rear lining. it slowed it down to a more reasonable speed.

I'm working on the back regulators now.
I'm going to have to hit the salvage yards to get some motors small enough to fit in there. I have 1 1/8 inch total clearance from the wondow bracket and the regulator housing so I'm scouring late models for something that might fit. or more radically I'm may get one that not quite slim enough and flip it to the inside of the car so that it fits under the door panel. the mopar ones that I used in the front were from a dodge truck 92-3 ish or so so relatively large 1 5/8th thick and won't fit any which way since I am going to have to make new panels anyway that might be the way to go. hmm got a bunch of Volvo's in one of the yards and I'll be sure to look at them first.
 
I've considered the same thing and did mess around with some motors about twenty years ago. You don't need to remove the spring IF you use a bolt to hold the regulator from moving. You might have to drill a hole through both pieces on some regulators. I still have the spare 67 door reg with the bolt in place somewhere around here.
 
Jim Lusk said:
I've considered the same thing and did mess around with some motors about twenty years ago. You don't need to remove the spring IF you use a bolt to hold the regulator from moving. You might have to drill a hole through both pieces on some regulators. I still have the spare 67 door reg with the bolt in place somewhere around here.
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I put the spring back on after I mounted the motors, but forgot to take it off BOTH times when I drilled out the crank handle and gear. on the second one it was a DUH moment, as soon as I put the screwdriver under it to pry off the mechanism I wen OH S!@# and remembered that I was supposed to unhook the spring. I'll try the bolt trick on the rears though. I have then both out and ready for testing to see if I can find some small motors.
 
Ack65dart said:
Stay away from the Ford cable regulators. The cable snaps easy. My friend has a 2005 F250 and he has to replace it. Hmmmmm I might have to the same to my 65 dart. I work at a part store so I will have to look around for the motor. What year did u get yours out of?
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mid 90's older style truck umm 90-93 ram 1/2 and 3/4 ton and I think the other 2 I scarfed up were from a full size van 90's. all of them are just a hair to thick to fit in the rear convertible only section using the regulators Hard tops and sedans have a bit more room and a different regulator that's smaller(doesn't have that big bulky bottom piece) so one of the ram truck motors woulds fit, but it would be darn tight.
 
Is there room behind the door panel window crank hole to fit original power window switches?
 

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autoxcuda said:
Is there room behind the door panel window crank hole to fit original power window switches?
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yeah there is. BUT I'm running the wires to a center console.
and it looks like I may have to use that space for the motors in the rear regulators. I have a valiant rear wheel well section that has that area still left on it and I'm mocking up the motor/regulator placement. since I'm running late model seats it's not stock by any means and I think it will just look better to have to centrally locatethe switch. there won't be any switches in the rear and either person in the front can use the switch in the console. if you gotta ride in the back that just means that the windows and the top are down.
 
66Dvert said:
yeah there is.
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Cool !

[/BUT I'm running the wires to a center console.
and it looks like I may have to use that space for the motors in the rear regulators. I have a valiant rear wheel well section that has that area still left on it and I'm mocking up the motor/regulator placement. since I'm running late model seats it's not stock by any means and I think it will just look better to have to centrally locatethe switch. there won't be any switches in the rear and either person in the front can use the switch in the console. if you gotta ride in the back that just means that the windows and the top are down.
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If you are running a stock '66 (to '76) console you could put the switches under the ash tray sliding door.
 
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