I wanted power windows for my 66 dart but I"m cheap!

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66Dvert said:
yeah there is. BUT I'm running the wires to a center console.
and it looks like I may have to use that space for the motors in the rear regulators. I have a valiant rear wheel well section that has that area still left on it and I'm mocking up the motor/regulator placement. since I'm running late model seats it's not stock by any means and I think it will just look better to have to centrally locatethe switch. there won't be any switches in the rear and either person in the front can use the switch in the console. if you gotta ride in the back that just means that the windows and the top are down.
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Wow riding topless in the back seat. lol
 
74DartSwinger360 said:
66 is different than 67-76
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The '65 and down automatic consoles are the little short ones.

This is a factory console in a '66 Dart, Valiant, or Barracuda.

03.jpg
 
autoxcuda said:
The '65 and down automatic consoles are the little short ones.

This is a factory console in a '66 Dart, Valiant, or Barracuda.

[image]http://www.markeeautosales.com/ebay/66dart/images/03.jpg[/image]
Click to expand...
yeah I've got one but it's in BADddddddd shape. so I'll be Adjusting things to suit me. I'm putting the power window,power top and power trunk switches in the console along with a couple of cup holders(yeah I'm spoiled that way) and a deeper junk catcher that will hide my power outlets for new type gizmo's. But I'll be keeping the stock shifter and indicator plate to fit in the newly remade top plate. I'm expecting the console toward the rear will look similar to the jeep Cherokee raised storage bin.
 
Window switches in the console have Chrysler history dating to the 1960 300F (61 "G" and 62 "H", too) and many of the FWD Mopars of the 80s and 90s. I've always liked them there.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Window switches in the console have Chrysler history dating to the 1960 300F (61 "G" and 62 "H", too) and many of the FWD Mopars of the 80s and 90s. I've always liked them there.
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Me too I wonder why they quit doing that? hmm maybe a safety issue with some of the idiots out there either spilling stuff in the switch or breaking em when they were doing things they were normally supposed to do in a car unless you were 16 and had a hottie with you,:sign10: #-o

mine should be ok if I can get the switch to mount right below the A/C vent on a slight angle. and I'm to darn old to bend in those positions now.
 
I was having a problem getting the rear windows figured out since there's only about 3/4 inch clearance between the window mounting bracket and the regulator. that stopped me from doing it by mounting it oin the inside (back) like I wanted to and I couldn't find and motors that seemed to be small enough to not hit the brackets. So I did them this way. I cut a hole in the inner door panel and used the opposite side motor from a 99-2003 dakota and welded the mounting bracket on that way. So far so good I do have a lot of adjusting to do but I now have room to adjust the windows in or oout to fit the top.
here's the dakota motor and mounting bracket
View attachment DSCF3675.jpg
here's what it looks like after you get the pieces you need off of it
View attachment DSCF3677.jpg
here is all you have to remove from the old regulator(after you take spring OFF and crank section)
View attachment DSCF3678.jpg
then you cut a big gaping hole in your inner door panel
View attachment DSCF3674.jpg

and mount it

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=386027634820193
here it is in action
 
Been doing some work on the dart this week and got the drivers side windows aligned with each other AND the top. @#$@#%$ what a chore, it took 6 hours of adjust this,then that. I even used the FSM's instructions but had to fudge a little since I didn't have manual window anymore But now that I figured out what I'm doing the passenger side should go a lot faster.
here's a video of the windows working and aligned

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=398596333563323
 
65 Dartman said:
Just like you said in the video - SWEEET!
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THANKS
as you can see I'm getting closer! to putting things back together.
one step at a time

I'm headed down to the vacuformer guy tomorrow to see about him making some side panel top pieces for me , you can see the broke ones in the video. I've looked and looked (3 years)for a good set to replace my broken ones and just decided to get a mold made so he can just bend the darn things for me. and the little top piece shaped like a Z that pretties up the top of the side panel . nobody makes those pieces and I've yet to find a good set of all the pieces, I do have 1 complete side that fair to make molds from though. if it all works out I'll have set's of top covers and maybe some plastic side panels (instead of fiberglass) that won't break if you look at it funny. gotta make a run of 10 pieces each mold or he won't run it for me though.

I've seen pictures of good ones though but that's all, when I call they are already sold or want 2-300 for crumbling fiberglass parts, don't get me started on "new" old stock prices for 40+ year old rubber and fiberglass parts.
these should work for 63-66 A bodies. I know that the set in the video came from a 63 valiant and fit the 66 dart just fine!
 
Idaho said:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=386027634820193
here it is in action
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Very cool. Why was it so hard to adjust?[/QUOTE]
mounting the motor in there threw it all out of whack. it moved the guide bar 1/4 out of position and I had to adjust that to compensate.

I going to mark where it comes close to the motor on the passengers side and then take it out and make a small gentle bend in it to keep the adjustments easier so instead of a straight line | I'll have something similar to ) to go around the motors. and keep all of my adjustments factory style.
 
OK thanks. I may do this so hope you post more pics :)
 
Idaho said:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=386027634820193
here it is in action
Click to expand...

Very cool. Why was it so hard to adjust?[/QUOTE]


I just did a gentle bend on the top 4 inches of the front guide rod to give me enough clearance and to be able to adjust the glass to fit the top channel, I measured down from the top of the guide 4 inches and heated it up (the whole 4 inches and tweaked it 1/4 inch inboard so it looked like this ) instead of this| , that allowed me to adjust in into the middle of the total adjustment and have room for oop'es.
 
this is really cool i think ima try it on my '73 duster when i get the extra cash. you think one of these could fit in there ?
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autoloc-Universal-Power-Window-Handle-Crank-Switch-Fits-All-Vehicles-/271653978080?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3fd6bfe0&vxp=mtr"]Autoloc Universal Power Window Handle Crank Switch Fits All Vehicles | eBay[/ame]

i love the stealth look that these provide
 
Idaho said:
OK thanks. I may do this so hope you post more pics :)
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I will post more pictures after I get back home and settle in a bit. it's been a hectic 5 months or so away from home and I'm looking forward to getting back home. there are some minor alignment problems but it's all due to operator error. I didn't take enough pictures of the completed door and clocking positions of the regulators when I should have. now it test...fit...test....fit ....damn take it out and try again....:banghead:
 
RogerK said:
Subscribed and waiting for a wiring schematic! :happy1:

Nice Work!
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hah that's the EASY part, I'm using the (either the coronet one from 67 or the 69 charger/coronet one) . can't beat factory wiring for things that work. of course they will plug into easy to get switches and extra connectors from the salvage yard from those factory van conversions. Or I'm thinking Dorman help rack for the gm's sytle so they will be around for a long time. I'm just extending the wires to the center console so that all the switches are in it near the top front and AWAY from the cupholders that will be molded in:D
here is the 69 coronet wiring diagram
View attachment power window wiring from 69 coronet.jpg
 
I love it. The door bars in my car preclude me from opening/closing the window unless the door is open. This looks like a good solution.
 
airwoofer said:
I love it. The door bars in my car preclude me from opening/closing the window unless the door is open. This looks like a good solution.
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Gah. you posted as I was adding the diagram. but yeah it works on a caged car really well. heck I even added power door locks on a street caged car for that very same reason of the bars crossing the door handle. since I wasn't that worried about weight on a street car that saw the strip once or twice a year it was nice. (of course the wife bitched to high heaven that it was hard to climb over the bars,but I like the view while she was doing it:glasses7:) now that I'm a bit (30 years or so) older and don't bend so well I'd have to make the bars removable for both me and her:D

you can use the stock 90's dakota/ram/newyorker/5th ave. motors since they have enough grunt to move your regulator the newer minivans don't have enough grunt. and they are easy to add to your regulators. extra ones are pretty easy to come by if you don't want to tear yours up. plus dakota/ram ones are real close to the same shape so I bet you could modify one to work in place of your original. and I'm thinking this type of switch to put in the console
View attachment power window switch.JPG
 
66Dvert, do you have the instruction manual on how to adjust the rear quarter window on the convertible? I have worked on mine for days and can't get the drivers side to fit and line up with the door glass. I'm about to wear the threads of the bolts!!
Easy
 
easyrider said:
66Dvert, do you have the instruction manual on how to adjust the rear quarter window on the convertible? I have worked on mine for days and can't get the drivers side to fit and line up with the door glass. I'm about to wear the threads of the bolts!!
Easy
Click to expand...

I've got it somewhere on the computer. It's not easy at all to tell the truth. after I converted to power windows in the rear (I kept the mounting locations the same. just forgot to clock the motor right on the drivers side and haven't fixed it yet) but I did have to play with it for a bit even with the manual hmm page 620 or so
lemme look
View attachment quarter window adjustmen.jpg
hope you can read it. if not pm me your email and I can dropbox it to ya.
 
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