Ideas on what's causing my click/tick/rattle noise?

[Dave999]

actually i can comment on the big end bearings, the big end should be slightly oval
wider at the parting seams. when installed it is pulled into the appropriate round shape and the bearings are crushed at the parting line
if the crush is too much the bearings hang up and seize becasue the sides at the parting line bow inwards
if the crush is too little the bearings ride round and the tang section can drive the bearing to a crooked position and it will hang up and seize on 1 edge or the other
did you get the big ends sized? or did you just use rods with new bolts..new bolts dictate that you need a resize.
was your crank ground in the correct direction and polished. if it is a nodular iron crank the grain is impotant grinding in one direction creates a journal with more friction than grinding in the other direction. factory manaul has details,
thinking about your issue i looked it up last night

as the final polish is done during break in, too much friction and hence hot at this time is not good

Dave

 

[halfafish]

Slant oil pump volume is determined by the thickness of the rotor.
There are three thicknesses of the rotor.
Thinnest the oe mechanical lifters is approximately 5/8 inch.

I believe this is what I have, the rotor measures about .650 or so.

Post a picture of the oil pump. I can tell if it's HV or not.

RRR, here you go with the cover in place, and the cover removed.

Is the pump body aluminum?

Yes it is.

Did you service - clean the oil by pass valve in the oil pump as part of the re build. The by pass valve should move freely and the FSM has a spec on spring length.
Oil pump rebuild kits with new inner and outer rotors and gaskets show up from time to time on e bay. Pay attention to get the correct rotor thickness.

I did a complete inspection on the pump when I built the engine, and all was in spec. I'll do it again while it's apart. The spring length was also in spec at that time.

Federal Mogul does have a press on rubber valve guide seal that fits over the stock OD of the slant valve guide. I have seen those in the Federal Mogul full engine rebuild gasket sets.

Would you have a part number by chance? I went looking for the Federal Mogul seals and came up with nothing.

While you have the cylinder head off take a flashlight and look into the manifold side of the port to get a visual on the back side of the valves. There may be a lot of coking on the back side on the valves. It will be really bad on the back of the intake valves if the intake valve seals are letting oil get sucked in.

Was that a typo in your response, that maybe "coking" should be "caking"? If not, what is coking?

I tried to get a photo of the intakes on the head but it's just too tight to get a camera to line up. The #1 intake for sure looks skanky. It's black, wet, and has wet looking build-up on the backside of the valve. The #4 intake also looks somewhat compromised. The others don't look too bad. I do have a remote camera on a snout that I will see if I can get it to cooperate for some photos. The exhaust valves look OK to me, they are light black powdery looking. I'm not sure if this is a factor or not, but the two rod ends that needed a little love at the MS were #1 and #4. That tidbit could be entirely random for all I know.

but what manufatcuere of rings did you use?

I'm pretty sure they were Hastings, but it's been a fair bit of time since I installed them and I can't be 100% sure on that. The new ones are Hastings.

To all, again, thanks for you willingness to help out with my issues. The next week or so is going to have me tied up badly so I will not likely be able to chart any progress on this till then. I think I may have to take the head back to the MS before I disassemble it to get their take on the valve seals. I don't want to fiddle with it if some of this responsibility is theirs.

 

[my68barracuda]

Photo of valve guide seals
Left: Positive valve stem seal
Center: example of the 'Premium valve stem seal' included with a NOS FEL PRO full engine gasket set. Unfortunately, the packet does not have a part number on them. In my spare parts stash I did find a packet of the same style valve stem seals from Victor Reinz, part number B45623.
Right: Umbrella valve stem seal

also on the subject of stem seals, I believe that Killer6 is correct in post #174 that the 'improved stem seals' were used in the mid 70's and that there are modern positive stem seals that will fit a mopar 1/2 inch guild.

concerning oil pumps my FSM has the rotor thickness limits listed below
1968 Mechanical valve trail pump rotor .649 minimum
1983 Hydraulic valve train pump rotor .825 minimum

the use of the word 'coking' is used to describe the residue that remains on an engine component when engine oil has severe oxidation and breaks down.
Since the intake valves in your motor have a black residue on the stem side it is a good assumption that the valve stem seals are leaking. The leak shows on the intake side as that side sees a vacuum and will pull oil in. The exhaust side maybe just as bad but that side sees pressure and will push oil out.
The leak may be causes by defective seals, or worn - out of round valve guide ID's, or worn - out of round valve stems, or a combination of all three.

 

[halfafish]

Here's the final update on this thread, then it's back to business on the truck build thread. I did indeed have coking on the valves. I took the head back into the machine shop to get positive seals installed, it should be back next week. They also noted it was running wildly pig rich, which I agree with. I'm going to downsize the carb to a freshly rebuilt Holley 390, and I got a wideband sensor so I can see what's up with the tune. Between bad timing, running too rich, and what-all else, this go-round should turn out better.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here's the final update on this thread, then it's back to business on the truck build thread. I did indeed have coking on the valves. I took the head back into the machine shop to get positive seals installed, it should be back next week. They also noted it was running wildly pig rich, which I agree with. I'm going to downsize the carb to a freshly rebuilt Holley 390, and I got a wideband sensor so I can see what's up with the tune. Between bad timing, running too rich, and what-all else, this go-round should turn out better.

What carburetor was on it? Oh and that is a totally stock oil pump. Not an aftermarket replacement. It's a good one, though.

 

[halfafish]

What carburetor was on it? Oh and that is a totally stock oil pump. Not an aftermarket replacement. It's a good one, though.

It was an Edelbrock 500 AVS2.

Good to hear about the oil pump. It is totally in spec and going back on the engine.

 

[Kent mosby]

I was hoping to get an update that the tick was gone after re-install. any news?

 

[j par]

I was hoping to get an update that the tick was gone after re-install. any news?

After reinstall and basically a new motor I would hope so!...

 

[halfafish]

I was hoping to get an update that the tick was gone after re-install. any news?

I did a test fire on a run stand, it sounded good. I'm a lucky man, today's work cancelled so I'll be wrapping up the install today. Hopefully...

 

[j par]

I did a test fire on a run stand, it sounded good. I'm a lucky man, today's work cancelled so I'll be wrapping up the install today. Hopefully...

TO LATE!!!......