Got this 340 hood with the scoops, bezels, and 340 call outs on the scoops, going on my 70 (after refurbishing)
Thanks Derrick
Thanks Derrick
I'm thrilled I got this hood for my Dart...
- Thread starter Brooks James
- Start date
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That's awesome. I love that style of hood. 
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
you going to drill the 4 1/8" holes (think they are) too? i've yet to do mine. i have the rubber pieces to go in and all. just haven't gotten around to drilling yet..
Same here Joe. I've got everything except the hole saw and the nerve to drill into a perfectly good hood!
The holes are 4 inch not 4 1/8. If you use a 4 inch hole saw they will end up 4 1/8. Use a 4 inch Cutter and Die
I'm not sure I have the nerve to do it, none of the stock sheet metal has been molested
Don't use a hole saw.
Just a heads up/FYI, a past owner bolted the scoops to my hood without putting the holes in. This has created two problems for future owner me.
The scoops have some broken studs because they are constantly trying to be ripped off of the hood. Also, the hood has come loose from it's bracing and is extremely wavy. I'm looking for a nice flat hood and may put my scooped hood on the wall of my garage.
The scoops have some broken studs because they are constantly trying to be ripped off of the hood. Also, the hood has come loose from it's bracing and is extremely wavy. I'm looking for a nice flat hood and may put my scooped hood on the wall of my garage.
I was thinking if I did, I would have it laser cut, yeah I know, $$
Care to elaborate?
I don't have any holes in my hood and I have the scoops. Zero issues with the studs breaking or the bracing.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
weird, i haven't had that issue either
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
didn't stock scooped hoods have the large holes? the 340 ones i've seen had them.. sure that isn't just a flat hood that someone put the scoops on? the under bracing is pre drilled in many cases.. my 70 and 71 hoos have all been pre drilled..
A friend that owns a sheet metal shop, that I was talking to about a custom dash said that he could do it it , and
That he has a place he can send it to be laser cut, and it would be a cleaner job than what he could do
Here's a pic where you can see the glue between the braces and the hood is broken loose
Same here on my 70, and I'm sure will be the same on the scoops hood
Anyone have a good idea what to use to fix ? Seam sealer ?
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
It's probably the previous owner over tightening the studs or the hood flex causing the studs to break. Those scoops just don't catch enough air to break those studs and if they did catch of ton of air, it'd rip the studs from the air scoop first.
I mean, that's a great car and I'm sure it's fast, but I doubt it's THAT fast. It can't be THAT fast, you said yourself that the scoops don't work.
I put the Dual Snorkel Scoop on my Duster and used a Hole Saw (4") to cut the two holes. It came out great! Then you can buy the factory style gasket to cover the hole opening. When using the hole saw, you have to go slow and be careful holding the drill nice and straight. The metal is thin and a new saw cuts through quick.
Most of the Hoods without scoops look like that too Brian. That Seam Sealer in-between dries up on all of them.The studs also break when they get really old. I'm sure it's better to have the holes to relieve the pressure
Too bad you're so far away, I'm pulling the hood off of my Demon to replace it with a better one. It looks nice but whoever owned it prior to whom I bought it from cut a lot of the structure away. I'm planning on giving it to any board member on here or trying to sell it at a local swap meet possibly. Doesn't include the scoop that I'm keeping.
Do what OMM told you to do. Use a 4” die and punch. I have used them before, but at the 2” diameter. It cuts a clean hole, quickly, way cleaner than having it lazer cut and there is virtually no heat involved. You just drill a hole center location and mount die on the underside of hood with threaded rod through the hole. Mount die on top of hood through threaded rod, thread and hand tighten nut. Then drive the die. Won’t even mark up a fresh paint job.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i mean is that from the scoops or from it being 50+ years old? that glue sure doesn't last forever..
You risk the saw walking a bit if you don't hit it perfectly square through the entire cut. Even a small amount of pressure may leave deflection in the hood. Mine was cut with a die for those reasons. I've used hole saws on thin metal many times. Most turn out well, some not so much. Not willing to take that chance on the hood. Just my opinion.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
RTV sticks better and lasts longer instead of seam sealer.
If your hood surface lifted off the old putty it will just do it again.
RTV and a little weight where it lifted will work really well.
As far as hole cutting I just tape over the entire area and use a jig saw.
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