9.2:1What's the compression ratio?
Is that calculated or just a guess as how it came from the factory. Kim9.2:1
Lunati, engle have no cores last I checked. The journal grinding machine was down last I heard.First..make certain the cam you choose is ground on a cam core made for the Mopar .903 lifters. Most are Chevy grinds on cores designed for a smaller diameter lifter.
A solid lifter will run a long time without issue. Good choice. Juice rollers often fail due to a lack of splash oiling at idle and low speed driving.
Good luck finding a cam... So many delays in the supply chain today.
I saw that yesterday, 2-4 week backlog.Lunati, engle have no cores last I checked. The journal grinding machine was down last I heard.
Call the Herbert Cams phone number it'll take you straight to Ruben. He has plenty of cores. Tell him gear, weight,transmission and consider where the head flows best at mid/ peak.I saw that yesterday, 2-4 week backlog.
Instead of just shooting down your initial desire to run a solid roller I’d advise you to call some cam companies and see what they would be able to grind. They do have smaller profile lobes so you could get one ground. The cost is high for all the components needed to run a solid roller. I’d assume your interest in running a roller would be no concerns of wiping lobes as can happen with a flat tappet, not to mention a little side benefit of more torque/hp afforded with using a roller. If cost isn’t a concern why not call around?I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
I’m pretty sure Barnett Performance has that cam in stock. If one opens a free racers account you get their racers discount so it’ll be cheaper than the $381.06 shown.Here is the solid cam that I'd go with if you're going off the shelf.
Howard's Cams: 711213-10
They list that cam very specifically for your engine and application. I'd personally like to see a touch less duration and a tighter LSA, but i'm not seeing that in an off the shelf solid roller. BTW i'm all for solid lifters, even on a street car. Adjusting them once every 10K is not a big deal at all.
Thank you.Instead of just shooting down your initial desire to run a solid roller I’d advise you to call some cam companies and see what they would be able to grind. They do have smaller profile lobes so you could get one ground. The cost is high for all the components needed to run a solid roller. I’d assume your interest in running a roller would be no concerns of wiping lobes as can happen with a flat tappet, not to mention a little side benefit of more torque/hp afforded with using a roller. If cost isn’t a concern why not call around?
We're are you currently at with your build?... Is it in LA block or a magnum block?..I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
Exactly.248/254 duration @0.05 with ~ 0.575 lift isn't small cam in an LA and for the OP, it's agreeable that it would be too big, but no one is advocating for a cam like that.
The trend in a daily is always hyd lifters, whether roller or flat, and I would no longer build a flat tappet engine.
In yesteryear, many, MANY cars came with solid lifters or OHC like the mercedes diesels. They typically needed adjustment every 10k miles. NOt really sa big deal. If the OP wnts solids, and he doesn't mind adjusting them once or twice a year, I don't see the issue.
I agree with Ol’Kimmer. BUT….I'm building a 318 and will be using solid roller lifters. I'm soliciting recommendations for a cam. The engine will be going in a daily driver and I would like it mild+ , 90% street, 10% strip.
Understand a solid roller cam 1st, then tell us there is no benefit unless the lift is huge...come on.
Op dont listen to those WHO DONT EVEN USE SOLID ROLLER CAM.