Install and Break In Procedures for New Camshaft Help

[JoesEdge]

Hello all! So in the pursuit of a better running and quieter engine I decided to replace my solid lifter cam of unknown specs with a new camshaft and hydraulic lifters..

This is sort of a continuation of the following threads:

For better drivability...

Help Needed: Rocker Arm Identification...

I talked to Comp Cams and Lunati, but went with Comp Cams because my roller rockers appear to be older Comp Cams units (see above link). Comp Cams recommended the XE268H which is what I went with.

Most the parts have arrived including the following:

1. Priming Rod - so I can make sure oil is flowing prior to fire up
2. XE268H Cam and Lifter kit
3. Timing gasket and Seal kit
4. Oil Slinger
5. Clevite Bearing Gaurd Assembly Lube

After inspecting my valve springs and realizing they are dual spring, I decided that I'm going to place an order for the matching springs, locks, retainers, and valve seals too while I'm at it. I'm debating about replacing the timing chain. It's a double roller and seems to feel pretty tight.

I am a bit worried that I did not find an oil tab behind the cam gear. I don't know if that's a big deal or not. Since I didn't find one, I ordered the oil slinger for some insurance.

When tearing down my valvetrain, I found that the rocker shafts were installed upside down. The small oil holes were facing up. From what others have told me here, the rocker shafts small (tiny) oil holes should be facing down and toward the exhaust. Correct?

Does anyone have a good step by step procedure for removing and installing the cam? Actually, that part seems pretty straight forward. Lube all the lobes with supplied lube. Lube the bearings, and carefully slide the shaft in without banging the bearings, right?

What about the timing chain cover, anything special or noteworthy when bolting that back on? I know that some bolts go in the water jackets. Do I need to do anything special with those bolts? Any tips on installing the intake back on as well?

I've read several threads on break-in. Seems straightforward. Put everything back together, make sure the distributor is in the right firing position, prime the fuel (no problem mine is electric), fire it up, and run it for 20 -30 minutes at 2500 RPM or higher. Is that correct?

I plan to be doing this work sometime soon. I do need to order the springs first. I was thinking of doing it 4th of July weekend or something. My weekends tend to run really short. Always busy.

I've attached a pic of my new parts. Yay!

Any tips, tricks, or advise is highly appreciated. I've already learn tons from you guy.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The oil slinger goes in front of the crank gear, not behind the the cam gear.

You are correct on the rocker shaft placement. Oil holes point toward the valve springs, down and to the outside of the engine.


Just be careful as you have already stated removing the old cam and installing the new one. Inspect the cam bearings thoroughly before you install the new cam. If they need replacing, it's better to know now than later.


On the big block, you can get by much better without removing the oil pan first. On the small block, it is damn near impossible to do it right without oil pan removal. Very straight forward. It's just a hunk of stamped sheet metal.

Make sure you have a very liberal (think Nancy Pelosi) amount of break in lube on the camshaft. As a plus, I also use the Comp Cams break in additive dumped in the oil pan too. Choose an oil that is high in zinc.

I like to use 2500 RPM as a BARE MINIMUM RPM for break in. I vary between 2500 and 4500. The more splash, the better. Above all, do NOT let it idle within the first 15-20 minutes.

Not sure, but I would GUESS the 268 cam calls for the 911 single spring. It should not need anymore than that. But use whatever spring Comp says and you should be fine.

One last thing. I would not do all this work without degreeing the camshaft. You don't have any idea where the cam is in the engine without doing that.

 

[JoesEdge]

Rusty, thanks for the advice! You were close on the springs. It's actually 901 single spring with damper spring.

Understood on the Oil Slinger. That goes in front of the timing chain on the crank, and from what I understand the dish faces forward so that it does not interfere with the chain.

I'm a little worried about timing chain oiling. My engine is missing the chain oil tab in the attached picture. I also don't know if I have the bolt with the oil hole through it since I haven't pulled the timing chain off yet.

I do plan on degreeing the new cam, I'm actually ordering a new crank socket (ProForm Socket was poor fit) along with the springs to aid in this. I printed out a 7" degree wheel since I found out the 11" Summit wheel hits the K-member.

I'm reusing the timing chain since it feels tight and looks good, but almost considering going with a new Comp Cams double roller chain to play it safe.

What I'd like to do this weekend is pull one of my dual springs off so I can inspect the valve seal, but I need a tool for that. I'm considering making my own. That should be a fun project right there.

What's the procedure for the crank seal that goes on the timing chain cover?

Thanks!

 

[Rapid Robert]

Make a mark 2&7/32" clockwise from the TDC slit on the dampener & have the guy running the light/dist to set the dist to that when it fires (with vac adv capped). Read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com On mockup check lifters for proper rotation. clean each lifter bore and lifter with brake kleen then lightly lube each lifter and bore with WD40 & set each lifter down on the cam lobe & raise each one up with your middle finger and let go of it & each one should fall down onto it's lobe with a resounding "thunk" & if not it is too tight & will not rotate which is critical for proper cam breakin. The OE drip bolt has a 1/8" hole and you can drill that your self

 

[RustyRatRod]

My apologies. I somehow thought we were talkin about a big block.

Then by all means the correct way is to remove the oil pan first and then remove the timing cover. Failure to do it that way will probably result in a leak. I am sure plenty of forum heros will say "I've removed just the timing cover for 100 years, blah blah blah", but the correct way to assure you will have no leaks is to remove the oil pan first and replace it last. Take the time and do it by the book and you will have no leaks.

Yes the 901 springs are the correct small block spring. The 911 I quoted is the big block version.

No worries about the timing chain oiling tab. You can get a nice inexpensive kit from Summit that has all that stuff in it. Durabond is the brand name. Also, take the upper passenger side bolt that holds the cam thrust plate on and drill a 1/8 hole all the way through it length wise. This will allow even more oil to drain out of the intake valley and oil the timing chain even more.

Rusty, thanks for the advice! You were close on the springs. It's actually 901 single spring with damper spring.

Understood on the Oil Slinger. That goes in front of the timing chain on the crank, and from what I understand the dish faces forward so that it does not interfere with the chain.

I'm a little worried about timing chain oiling. My engine is missing the chain oil tab in the attached picture. I also don't know if I have the bolt with the oil hole through it since I haven't pulled the timing chain off yet.

I do plan on degreeing the new cam, I'm actually ordering a new crank socket (ProForm Socket was poor fit) along with the springs to aid in this. I printed out a 7" degree wheel since I found out the 11" Summit wheel hits the K-member.

I'm reusing the timing chain since it feels tight and looks good, but almost considering going with a new Comp Cams double roller chain to play it safe.

What I'd like to do this weekend is pull one of my dual springs off so I can inspect the valve seal, but I need a tool for that. I'm considering making my own. That should be a fun project right there.

What's the procedure for the crank seal that goes on the timing chain cover?

Thanks!

 

[4spdragtop]

When installing cam you can temporarily bolt cam gear to front of it to help "balance" the cam when you install it so you dont bump it along the way. Lots of good advice in this thread.
When you go to re-install oil plan, make sure you "straighten/flatten" out the pan around the mount holes for even sealing.

 

[clifftt]

I ordered a Cloyes double roller set. Then when degreeing the cam, I found it off 7* and had to order a different chain set. $40 souvenir I have now. I say degree your cam first with your old gears first, then buy the appropriate set. My two cents.

 

[JoesEdge]

Okay, the rest of my parts have arrived and it's time to start getting these things installed. I plan to pull out the old cam out today. Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'll have it back on the street again.

 

[67Dart273]

Make absolutely certain you have this thing "ready to fire and run" out of the chute

I use the EOIC valve lash method, because you don't have to remember anything specific for certain engines. (The Mopar valve chart won't work on traditional Ford firing order, or the "new improved" GM one, and it won't work on V or inline 6's either LOL)

EOIC means to bump the engine around until

The EXHAUST just starts to OPEN and set the intake on that cylinder

Bump until the INTAKE opens and is nearly CLOSED then set the exhaust on that hole

TIMING

There is two ways to make sure the dist. rotor is on "no1" ready to fire (compression) and not no6

A..........One way is look at the valves but you have to look close. With the TDC marks aligned, either no1 or no6 will both be open "about the same" and the other cylinder both valves will be closed. The cylinder with closed valves is ready to fire. Don't get fooled

B.......The second way is to stick your finger in the no1 hole, bump until you start to feel compression, then bring the marks "on up" BUT DO NOT align them to TDC. Instead, stop at about 15-20 BTC (20 for a "hot" cam, 10-15 BTC for a "stocker.)

With the engine at this point, stick the dist in so the rotor is approaching the corner of the cap tower for the no1 wire. Rotate the dist. CW which is retard, then back CCW for advanced until.................

If you have points, until the points just open. Use a light or meter

If you have breakerless, until the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup coil. "When you get" good at this, you can "wiggle" the dist past the pickup / reluctor trigger point, and with the key on, it will generate a single spark

IF YOU do this right, it will fire and run with no further "diddle" on the timing

YOU CAN also check the timing with a light "on the starter." What you do NOT want to do, though, with a new cam, is crank it for extended periods on that new cam.

You want it to fire, run, and get it up to the break in RPM

Make sure the coolant is full and "burped." Easy way is to fill to the heater nipple next to the stat housing, then hook up the hose.

Make sure the battery is fully up, charged

Make sure the fuel is primed and "ready." Many guys suggest filling the carb through the vents with some sort of squirt device.....bulb, ....squeeze bottle, what have you

 

[JoesEdge]

I got as far as replacing the valve springs. The dual valve springs are out, and the matching valve springs for the XE268H are in.

I had to reuse my locks because they were single groove. The locks I bought had 4 grooves. Now I have locks I don't need.

Here's some pics. The valve springs in the pictures are the previous dual spring valve springs. In some of the pics you'll see my homemade valve spring compressor. Worked great after I modified it a bit. I call it "Joey's Valve Spring Compressor version 2".

The pushrod length worries me. I tested the length by installing the hydraulic lifter on the solid cam. Of course, once I put the XE268H in, I'll check again.

 

[JoesEdge]

Make absolutely certain you have this thing "ready to fire and run" out of the chute

I use the EOIC valve lash method, because you don't have to remember anything specific for certain engines. (The Mopar valve chart won't work on traditional Ford firing order, or the "new improved" GM one, and it won't work on V or inline 6's either LOL)

EOIC means to bump the engine around until

The EXHAUST just starts to OPEN and set the intake on that cylinder

Bump until the INTAKE opens and is nearly CLOSED then set the exhaust on that hole

TIMING

There is two ways to make sure the dist. rotor is on "no1" ready to fire (compression) and not no6

A..........One way is look at the valves but you have to look close. With the TDC marks aligned, either no1 or no6 will both be open "about the same" and the other cylinder both valves will be closed. The cylinder with closed valves is ready to fire. Don't get fooled

B.......The second way is to stick your finger in the no1 hole, bump until you start to feel compression, then bring the marks "on up" BUT DO NOT align them to TDC. Instead, stop at about 15-20 BTC (20 for a "hot" cam, 10-15 BTC for a "stocker.)

With the engine at this point, stick the dist in so the rotor is approaching the corner of the cap tower for the no1 wire. Rotate the dist. CW which is retard, then back CCW for advanced until.................

If you have points, until the points just open. Use a light or meter

If you have breakerless, until the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup coil. "When you get" good at this, you can "wiggle" the dist past the pickup / reluctor trigger point, and with the key on, it will generate a single spark

IF YOU do this right, it will fire and run with no further "diddle" on the timing

YOU CAN also check the timing with a light "on the starter." What you do NOT want to do, though, with a new cam, is crank it for extended periods on that new cam.

You want it to fire, run, and get it up to the break in RPM

Make sure the coolant is full and "burped." Easy way is to fill to the heater nipple next to the stat housing, then hook up the hose.

Make sure the battery is fully up, charged

Make sure the fuel is primed and "ready." Many guys suggest filling the carb through the vents with some sort of squirt device.....bulb, ....squeeze bottle, what have you

So, I have an MSD distributor and box. Any changes to procedure with those, or about the same? Also, electric fuel pump so that should take care of the priming of the carb.

The EOIC method, is that when the intake is back on and stuff? Could I set the preload with the intake off and watch the cam?

Thanks for the tips!!

 

[70aarcuda]

actually easier to set preload with the intake off..

 

[JoesEdge]

actually easier to set preload with the intake off..

That's what I was thinking too. I don't think I'm gonna get much work done on it today. I'll start bright an early tomorrow morning. That way I can fire it up by Sunday morning and wake the neighbors. LOL

 

[67Dart273]

So, I have an MSD distributor and box. Any changes to procedure with those, or about the same? !

I don't use MSD. I believe it will trigger a spark with very little movement. You should be able to power it up, move the thing past the trigger point, and see a spark

QUOTE=JoesEdge;1970493057]The EOIC method, is that when the intake is back on and stuff? Could I set the preload with the intake off and watch the cam?

Thanks for the tips!![/QUOTE]

As above, easier before you install the intake. EOIC is mostly for setting valve lash with the intake installed. So yes, you can look at the cam and see what's what

 

[JoesEdge]

Updates..

I worked on it over the long weekend. It was a busy weekend so I didn't get that much time to work on it. Only a few hours on Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday. I did have a setback on Saturday which caused me to lose a day.

I replaced the valve springs, installed the cam, installed the lifters and when bolting the rocker arms back on, one of the bolts broke. I got pretty pissed and took the rest of the day to cool off. Seems like working on this motor has been 2 steps forward and 3 steps back.

I went to the wrecking yard the next day, and pulled some replacement bolts, and I scored and chain oil tab that I was missing. Maybe it was meant to be! lol

Then when I finally got the rockers on, I backed out the adjusting screw all the way and realized that even while on the base circle, the pushrod was nearly touching the rocker arm.

Anyway due to my lack of time and this thing pissing me off, I'm thinking of taking it to someone to just go through the whole engine and put it back together again.

Pictures shows the thrust plate without the oil tab. I have one now. Rocker shaft bolt broken. Pushrods and lifters slightly pushed in.

 

[JoesEdge]

Turns out the cam that was originally in my block is a Engle cam ground for Hughes Engines.

The part number is HE5964AS.

The HE stands for Hughes Engines and the A stands for A Engine, and S is for solid lifter.

Intake 261* @ .050 295* Advertized
Exhaust 267* @ .050 305* Advertized
107* Lobe Separation
.582 Lift