Installing one wire alternator

[mopardude318]

Another question I have, all these plugs go to the ‘big splice’ I call it. (The other end of of VR plug I’ll be removing, ballast resistor, choke, alternator plug.)
This splice is where I’ll be connecting the new Alternator’s 12 volt ignition switched source wire to, correct? This splice is active when the key is on engine running, but inactive when cranking?

And the 12 volt sense wire will go to the same battery lug on the starter relay.

This might get a little interesting when I start removing the electronic ignition/ballast resistor to use MSD ignition. I wanted to start with the alternator first. Maybe that was backwards.

 

[67Dart273]

The big thing you need to do when connecting "big" alternators--or really doing anything in that line--is to make sure the bulkhead connector terminals and the original wiring (if retained) is in good shape. Even though you are greatly reducing the strain on the bulkhead connector--by "shunting" the original ammeter--there is still current through the big black and big red wires--to feed loads in the pass. compartment.

 

[67Dart273]

Another question I have, all these plugs go to the ‘big splice’ I call it. (The other end of of VR plug I’ll be removing, ballast resistor, choke, alternator plug.)
This splice is where I’ll be connecting the new Alternator’s 12 volt ignition switched source wire to, correct? This splice is active when the key is on engine running, but inactive when cranking?

And the 12 volt sense wire will go to the same battery lug on the starter relay.

View attachment 1715855977 View attachment 1715855978

This might get a little interesting when I start removing the electronic ignition/ballast resistor to use MSD ignition. I wanted to start with the alternator first. Maybe that was backwards.

The basic thing about bypassing the ballast is to get all the wires connected together so that the bypass circuit still functions

You also want to insure the sense wire is connected to a good battery connection that does not see voltage drop. The starter relay "stud" should accomplish ;that.

In the future, it is WAY better not to tag onto an old thread. Things have a habit of getting confusing.

 

[Pavejackal]

I’m reviving this thread because I need a little help. Working on a ‘1974 Dodge W200 truck.

I’m installing an internally regulated Denso 60 amp 3 wire unit. I’m kinda following 2 sets of instructions.

I have a 6ga wire from the alt output going to a fuse as you can see on the firewall, and from there I’ll be going to the starter relay battery lug. I think ANDY AR Engineering’s instructions call this a “Shunt” to keep the whole load going into the firewall on the original black 10ga alternator wire to bulkhead.

Now can I still place this same 10ga black wire on the output stud of the new alternator along side the other heavy 6ga? (this one goes through the bulkhead)

View attachment 1715855727

View attachment 1715855737

(this is the old alternator output wire going to bulkhead, which then connects to many things like ignition switch, high & low beams, ammeter, fuse panel) Because of all this I thought it would be a good idea to also use this wire. ?
View attachment 1715855743

View attachment 1715855744

The American Wire wiring harness gets rid of all those extra components like the voltage reg, ballast, and resistor in the original electrical system. I replaced our entire wiring system with one, see our schematic - very simple.

 

[MadScientistMat]

Worth noting that while the starter terminal is a convenient place to connect for 12V power, it can be a problem if you are using EFI or other digital electronics that need to be powered while starting. You get a significant voltage drop through the cable plus a lot of extra electrical noise while cranking. I had an EFI setup wired like that once, and redoing the wiring so it took 12 volts from the other end of the starter cable at the battery helped with several startup issues. Less of a problem if you're running a carb with a non-exotic ignition.