I would post their name, that’s bad business.
By the way, I feel bad that it’s happened to you, you might’ve saved a lot of us some grief.
Intermediate Shaft Wear
- Thread starter Ricks70Duster340
- Start date
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By the way, I feel bad that it’s happened to you, you might’ve saved a lot of us some grief.
In retrospect, I think it's funny how they call that bronze gear "sacrificial" because it gets eaten up before the cam gear is damaged. Yeah, the cam gear may be saved but how much of the "sacrifice" is pumped into the engine to harm other components? Just kinda funny to me. Gotta laugh at this point... !
What brand of timing cover are you using? I was told to use a reinforced cover.
I have no idea what is on there.
I’m glad you posted this “Intermediate Shaft Wear“ question, i’m about to install my hydraulic roller cam.
I would like to know if that gear was run in a HV/HP pump! I really would like to have a better pump than a stock one, but the warning on the Hughes website is concerning, still.
Different poster “FWIW, I've put in a Crane gear on a Hughes shaft...
that will be run on a cam that was dyno'd w/ a bronze gear (since pulled)...
and the engine currently has a HV pump and made about 65 PSI hot w/ 30w.
I also picked up a standard HV63 pump (std pressure, std volume) "just in case" I see anything of concern and decide to switch oil pumps.
Edit: Pic doesn't show the collar that was added on the distributor shaft to keep the gear's vertical movement to a minimum.”
that will be run on a cam that was dyno'd w/ a bronze gear (since pulled)...
and the engine currently has a HV pump and made about 65 PSI hot w/ 30w.
I also picked up a standard HV63 pump (std pressure, std volume) "just in case" I see anything of concern and decide to switch oil pumps.
Edit: Pic doesn't show the collar that was added on the distributor shaft to keep the gear's vertical movement to a minimum.”
Well, the verdict is in. Pulled a valve cover and wiped the rail with my finger onto a blue towel. If you look closely you'll see the small brass "sacrifice". Time to pull the engine.
![20240601_072349[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/20240601_072349-1-jpg.1716256967/ "20240601_072349[1].jpg")
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that’s not good.
It’s hard to see in the picture but that almost looks like a sintered bronze or oilite bushing material.
Not saying it is because it may be the picture but usually brass doesn’t make chips like that.
At least not the brass they use for those gears.
If this is a hydraulic roller, I used to order what was called a SADI core.
It was a steel cam but the distributor drive gear was cast iron and it was pressed on.
Then you just ran a regular drive. Maybe they don’t make them any more because it’s probably cheaper to use a melonized gear.
Either was a better option than the brass drive.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Did you cut the filter open?
I did not. Since the gear was eaten and I found metal in the oil on the valve cover rail I did not see the point. I'm sure the filter picked up a lot of metal, that's it's job. To me the point of inspecting the filter would be at an oil change to ensure the engine was healthy. I now know it is not. I do really appreciate all the feedback folks have given me on this issue. I'm just concerned now about what I will find in my roller rockers & lifters when I tear things down. They were really expensive...
mopar head
DoD Alien/Squatch slayer
What a sucky thing to go through.
We do not use Hydraulic rollers only solid.
I am Old School.
I am Old School.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
Bronze Barracuda
Well-Known Member
I've got a Howard's roller cam (711915-12) installed in a fresh rebuilt 360. Just recieved a reply back from summit that it is a billet camshaft. It hasn't yet been broken in. Now I'm trying to figure out the best street gear for it. I'm no metallurgist, I currently have a factory used intermediate shaft in it. I've just recently learned about this situation. So we've got steel - bronze - melonized??? - composite - and brass!? I just want to do what's correct for longevity. So what is the correct material for a billet cam? Any part numbers, I do not want to destroy this motor.
I bought the melonized gear from Hughes for a big block. Mines a street driven car.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liability.
Use a melonized gear when it called for a bronze. Bronze are intended to wear.. setup is key or they'll wear prematurely.
Bronze Barracuda
Well-Known Member
I can't get over the price of the damn things!
Why are there no billet gears available by the cam manufacturers, probably still cost a lot.
I have a 1990 roller block what did dodge use them? If they didn't use a billet camshaft then why are the manufacturers using billet now.
I had a truck with over 250000 miles no engine issues with that.
I'm ranting sorry.
$240 for a small gear on the end of a shaft.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liability.
It's used to be cheaper.I can't get over the price of the damn things!
Why are there no billet gears available by the cam manufacturers, probably still cost a lot.
I have a 1990 roller block what did dodge use them? If they didn't use a billet camshaft then why are the manufacturers using billet now.
I had a truck with over 250000 miles no engine issues with that.
I'm ranting sorry.
$240 for a small gear on the end of a shaft.
Factory used cast iron camshaft with a huge base circle, I mean huge.. and if you run too much spring.. and thats not hard to do... the core goes bye bye. They used the same old gear as they always did with that cast iron core.
Now billet roller? melonized gear is what I use and never look back. I'm a set it and forget it kinda guy, I hate having to check the bronze every other month... its easy, check the free play at the rotor.. but still.
Bronze Barracuda
Well-Known Member
Sigh.
It looks as though there's no way around it,
In the bright side the one at Hughes states that it's good for all applications and good for life. But damn that's a lot of $$$
Tell me about it, I’ve already bought a bronze gear a year and a half ago. It was $150 then now it’s $200. Add that with the $240 I blew a month ago on a melonized gear. I don’t wanna do it twice or replace a cam.
Yeah, and what about all that debris from the worn bronze gear getting into your engine? Ask me how I know. The "sacrificial" gear sacrificed my engine.
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