Are you entertaining the idea of cutting the car to make them fit ? So far no pictures of any Darts with 10s all the way around.
Is anyone running 10” wide wheels on all four corners
- Thread starter Dan s
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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What he ^^^^^ said.
Forget 10s on the front. and forget thinking they all 4 need to be the same.
If on the street; and by my experience;
245s are about tops on the front, on 8s; before you have to start cutting and modifying.. But be advised, the car will start to exhibit unfixable steering traits, when driving in a straight line.
I now run 235/60-14s on 7.5s and steer by power-sliding the back, lol. You'll get used to it. Getting her to drive in a straight-line with these tires was a stinking lot of work. You will probably need a buddy with an alignment rack.
On the back with the 235s on the front, you'll need 275s at the very least, to stay outta trouble. And then you'll need a minimum 300 hp to run 3.73s./ 350 to run 3.55s/ 375 to run 3.23s. If you don't have the power, buy extra wheels and tires cuz curbs don't care what your name is; when they see you coming, they will jump up and take a bite, just like ol' JoeFrazier.
For handling, yur gonna need to re-engineer the springing, the shocks, brakes, steering, the driver's seat, and that monster stock steering wheel, etc. And yur gonna have to learn to deal with all that weight between the back tires and the rear bumper. I sortof/mostly, solved that with 295/50-15s in the back; but the rear overhang on my 68 Barracuda is shorter and might weigh less........ hard to say with that monster picture window back there.......
After many many months, it finally goes where I point it........ but you know; street speeds are pretty tame. Brakes are your friends.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
What's up?
15x10's with 4" back spacing.
Soft 8 cragers. Cheap. Bash em and replace em. If necessary.
15x10's with 4" back spacing.
Soft 8 cragers. Cheap. Bash em and replace em. If necessary.
Can't wait for the red x to tells us how it's done.
10" will work on the front with the right parts and the willingness to roll and push your fenders a bit.
It has been done too, on a Valiant at that. Member tomswheels ran his Valiant with 18x10's on the front with 285/35/18's. His car was a long way from stock of course, but he still ran torsion bars up front. In fact he ran 73+ disk spindles with Hotchkis UCA's. The fenders were rolled and pushed pretty substantially, but no dirt car cut fenders up front. He actually did a lot more work in the rear of the car for tire clearance than he had to do in the front.
Wide Fronts on a 68 Dart
Appropriate Wheel Offset for 18" Wheels?
I run 275/35/18's on my Duster with 18x9's, but there's no reason I couldn't run them on 18x9.5's or even 18x10's for that matter. I did roll the fender lips and have applied some "push" to the fender when I did the rolling, but again the bodywork remains pretty much intact. There are things you can find if you look, like the lengthened fender to bumper support rods, but it doesn't require dirt car cutting.
And my Duster has been my daily driver for years now. I run a 16:1 fast ratio manual steering box with a Tuff wheel to boot, so those saying you can't steer it are full of crap. It requires modern alignment specs for sure with additional positive caster to counter the rut seeking/following behavior that the wide front tires will give you, but it is not at all insurmountable.
It has been done too, on a Valiant at that. Member tomswheels ran his Valiant with 18x10's on the front with 285/35/18's. His car was a long way from stock of course, but he still ran torsion bars up front. In fact he ran 73+ disk spindles with Hotchkis UCA's. The fenders were rolled and pushed pretty substantially, but no dirt car cut fenders up front. He actually did a lot more work in the rear of the car for tire clearance than he had to do in the front.
Wide Fronts on a 68 Dart
Appropriate Wheel Offset for 18" Wheels?
I run 275/35/18's on my Duster with 18x9's, but there's no reason I couldn't run them on 18x9.5's or even 18x10's for that matter. I did roll the fender lips and have applied some "push" to the fender when I did the rolling, but again the bodywork remains pretty much intact. There are things you can find if you look, like the lengthened fender to bumper support rods, but it doesn't require dirt car cutting.
And my Duster has been my daily driver for years now. I run a 16:1 fast ratio manual steering box with a Tuff wheel to boot, so those saying you can't steer it are full of crap. It requires modern alignment specs for sure with additional positive caster to counter the rut seeking/following behavior that the wide front tires will give you, but it is not at all insurmountable.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Nah it's all good. There's always one.
Why? You did exactly what it took to run 10’s if you’re going to stick with a 15” rim. I suppose the purists might give you some grief for the bodywork but that’s their problem.
Post factually incorrect information, get a red X. If you don’t like red X’s, stop posting bad information.
Well? I posted how it’s done. Simple fact is that there are more than a few A-bodies that have or can run 18x10’s up front, and some have done so on street going cars.
On a Dart it actually might be less work to run 18x10’s on the front than the back, although both can be done with the right parts and some minor modifications. Although in the back to really make use of the 10” rim it would be better to do a 3” relocation and mini-tub.
Jim Lusk
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My son's Barracuda is also "dirt cut", but it was hacked up old drag car when we put it on the street and decided to autocross it. Used Nascar slicks were free, so you do what you gotta do. Car left the factory with a slant/auto anyway.
j par
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autoxcuda
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I have 15x9’s on all 4 corners. With lousy 4 1/8” backspacing. Could/Should be 4 1/2”
But I have my have 245/50/15 tires in them
I have the rear lips rolled completely on top
The fronts are rolled, pushed out, and cut/bent back in lower front
Rear before and after
Front -Bending back the front lower lip out
Front -Using the fender support to push the lip out.
But I have my have 245/50/15 tires in them
I have the rear lips rolled completely on top
The fronts are rolled, pushed out, and cut/bent back in lower front
Rear before and after
Front -Bending back the front lower lip out
Front -Using the fender support to push the lip out.
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It's an opinion based on his inquiry. Nowhere does he state what the car is being used for. You're basing your answer on him spending a few thousand on wheels, tires and suspension parts. Mine was as a regular driver. That doesn't make it factually incorrect. If he's going to cut up the car as some examples show then there are obvious repercussions. Keep right on believing that your opinion is the only one that matters. You're in great company as we see it everyday.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Mine was also a slanty. And light yellow at that. No sleep lost.
I actually trimmed them only a little bit, cut into the tire, then trim a little more, more cut on sharp turns, cut a little more fender.
I really don't like the dirt cut so I'm going to factory crease the edges of the extended wheel well.
I figured as soon as the wing went on the car, that the purists would hate me regardless of what I do to the car.
I've got some pure cars, but they don't get the people waving and jumping up and down and yelling for burn outs every time I drive them.
This one gets the attention! by the cops too.
It does find the ruts. That's about my only issue. Eventually would like to figure out what I should do to stop the rut magnet.
No power steering either. I destroyed my upper balls and replaced them. Then went with a factory alignment. Drives fine. but can use some work.
I actually trimmed them only a little bit, cut into the tire, then trim a little more, more cut on sharp turns, cut a little more fender.
I really don't like the dirt cut so I'm going to factory crease the edges of the extended wheel well.
I figured as soon as the wing went on the car, that the purists would hate me regardless of what I do to the car.
I've got some pure cars, but they don't get the people waving and jumping up and down and yelling for burn outs every time I drive them.
This one gets the attention! by the cops too.
It does find the ruts. That's about my only issue. Eventually would like to figure out what I should do to stop the rut magnet.
No power steering either. I destroyed my upper balls and replaced them. Then went with a factory alignment. Drives fine. but can use some work.
autoxcuda
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that may change where the rotor to rim flange sits in/out relative to the fender-well. So you have to measure and test what rim backspacing you need.
But the total amount of room in the fender-well stays the same.
Well, let's see what you actually wrote...
First, you had no idea what results the OP was looking for when you posted that. The OP has posted he's trying to make the car handle better since your original post, so it would seem he DOES want the results.
As for - "You'll never be able to turn" - well, that's total BS. 100% factually incorrect. Doesn't matter what your opinion is on that, the facts say otherwise. Turning is not an issue, even with manual steering.
Next up- "lifting the rear to accomplish the fit" - well, that's totally unnecessary. You can get 10" wide wheels to fit without lifting the car at all if you do it the right way. It's not really even a good way to gain clearance on a Dart because of the low rear wheel openings. Heck done properly you can lower the car and still clear 10" rims no problem.
As for the rest of it, the OP just wanted to know if it can be done. It can. I never said it was cheap or easy, but that wasn't the question now was it?
So yeah, 10's can be made to fit on all 4 corners. That's not an opinion, those are the facts. Is doing it right going to be expensive? Hell yes. But if the goal is handling, then it's well worth it.
Best way to solve the rut seeking of the wide front tires is to increase positive caster. I've run everything from +4° all the way up to +8° caster, I've found that on my car that +6.5° is the happy medium between controlling the rut seeking tendency and making the steering effort exponentially more difficult. I also run manual steering, a 16:1 box at that. It's still very manageable, although parallel parking can be a bit of a chore. Anything over 10mph is a dream.
Factory alignment isn't the way to go with radials anyway. I run -1° camber, +6.5° caster, and 1/16" toe in.
As autoxcuda pointed out the track width may change depending on what conversion and brakes you're using. Some of the conversions may also change your turning radius, although usually that improves tire clearance because some of the racks don't allow as much steering angle.
Why the conversion to coilovers? You can handle just as well or better with a properly tuned torsion bar set up, and save yourself a bunch of cash too.
The reason for the swap to coils. I had a chance to drive a buddy’s car with coils on an auto cross course. It was the best handing a body I have ever driven. It’s a daily driver and has excellent street manners. Plus I hate the headers on my car. I’ll be using a power rack and pinion as well.
While I don't doubt your buddy's car handles well, the fastest, best handling Mopars still run torsion bars. With the aftermarket parts currently available, you can run torsion bars and have a car that handles just as well or better than one with coil overs. There's nothing magical about coil overs, they're just a spring and a shock. Run the proper wheel rates with the right shocks and torsion bars can do the same. And the Mustang II design used by most of the coil over conversions is not inherently better than the design of the torsion bar suspension on these cars. With the proper aftermarket parts you can get better geometry with the Mopar torsion bars. And the chassis carries the suspension loads where it was designed to.
It's true, header clearance isn't great, but you can save thousands running a modified torsion bar suspension compared to a full coil over conversion. More than enough to buy a set of Doug's or TTI's. And a rack and pinion really has to come with a full conversion. Although frankly, they don't improve actual handling performance, just change the feel a little. A new Borgeson box solves all the other issues from running Mopar power steering.
Make your choices and spend your money, but if handling performance is the goal it can be achieved just as well with torsion bars, for less money, than a coil over conversion. Plenty of evidence of that too...
The Hotchkiss Taxi, a 4 door satellite, putting up better track numbers than a fully RMS converted Duster...
2013 Muscle Car of the Year - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
The Hotchkiss Taxi again, besting series 3 BMW's at TireRacks test track, same driver for both
The Hotchkiss Challenger, putting down better skid pad numbers than a 2010 SRT Challenger
2010 Dodge Challenger SRT-8 vs. 1970 Dodge Challenger | Edmunds
Another '70 Challenger, running torsion bars and tearing up autoX courses
’70 Challenger On Factory-Style Suspension is an Autocross Warrior
150 mph track going '68 Valiant
1968 Plymouth Valiant - Track Day Prep - Mopar Muscle Magazine
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