abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
lol
Is this a thrust button and can it be removed?
- Thread starter jawbone
- Start date
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I agree with your statement regarding the E body axles. Had to learn first hand. Really cost me on shipping and the original price of axles.
Birdsong and a lot of the other keyboard warriors have given many of us a ton of misinformation. My suggestion is to call the company you got the axles from and talk to them. These day I try to stay away from yoob toob because of all of the BS that is put out there. Don't get me wrong, there is a good amount of excellent information out the. Just be sure to do your research and make sure someones not blowing smoke.
Contacted Moser regarding axles. Axles will accept the tapered bearing if I decide to take that path. None of this is inexpensive. If I'm spending this kind of money I just want it to be right. This includes the removal or not of the axle shaft thrust spacer. Will let install of green bearings make that decision. If it must be removed I will go back to the tapered bearings. Am not going to remove it now due to mis-information. Found adjuster on DrDiff web site.
DoctorDiff has everything, he even sells heavy duty billet adjusters for the tapered bearings. Overkill for street use but a nice upgrade if you’re doing AutoX or road race stuff. Some of it is a little harder to find on his website, it used to be the only way to find the heavy duty adjusters was on a drop down if you were ordering axles.
Boy this is nice to see. Found them on Dr Diff but no pic. Good to see their available. Thanks for the response.
Yeah they’re burly, very nice pieces. I’ve had mine for a bit so I can’t say if they’re in stock right now, but I have ordered a couple sets and have never had an issue getting them
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Birdsong's cutaway of those green bearings makes them seem pretty pathetic. I'd have expected to see more bearings in that space. I've never had an issue running them, but I'll sure give it some thought next time.
Chevy ran the roller bearing up to 1964. Ford used them up till the quit installing the 9 inch diff in trucks sometimes in the 1980s. The axles all just butted up to the pin in the center that hold the spiders in place. So they minimal side clearance/axle play. Kim
I have to agree that the single row Green bearings are no fit for purpose. Modern bearings are dual row and much stronger. But fitting roller bearings in the limited space available in a old Mopar housing is problematic. My green bearings failed 300 miles from home (Bishop, CA when I lived in Long Beach, CA) and I had to listen to the grinding the whole way worrying about total failure. Luckily, I got home OK and replaced the Green bearing with a tapered roller that worked for 50 years and is still in the car.
Glad to here you made it home. Stories like this make me change my mind about using them.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
It's just a matter of design. Tapered roller bearing are a superior design over ball bearings. Just about every vehicle manufacturer went to tapered in the 1950's for front wheel bearings for that reason. They handle side loads better and last longer. Are green real axle bearings bad? No, just not as long lasting as tapered roller bearings. Their advantage is that you don't need to set the axle shaft end play or pack them with grease. For most of our cars that don't see and never will see many miles put on them, they're just fine. For a daily driver, slalom car, off road 4 X 4, etc, I would use the tapered ones for strength and longevity. As far as your button spacer issue, I'd just test fit them. If they will install without bottoming out and the bearing retainer will bolt down flat against the backing plate, you're good. Just make sure you install both axles to do the test. What I would do is install one axle all the way in but not bolted down. Then install the other and push it all the way in. If the first axle doesn't move, bolt them down. If it starts to pop out, that spacer will need to be removed.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Yup, I agree with what he has to say except for his use of the term "preload". There is no preload on the tapered roller bearings in the rear axle. Front wheel bearings technically are supposed to have some, although I never load them myself beyond finger tight. There is however an end play adjustment on the rear axles. That is accomplished by the adjustment nut on the passenger side bearing retainer. With a dial indicator, a simple process. Even without one you can get it close enough to where you won't have a problem. This is all assuming you have stock drum brakes. Disc conversions have their own needs depending on design.
Very well put. Thanks for the informative response.
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