mopar head
Well-Known Member
That`s cause they always leak there.
It's becoming a problem.
- Thread starter Iron Oxide
- Start date
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Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
Regarding the overtightened carb bolts?
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
Maintaining the theme of cheap junk, here's some crusty and hacked wiring to contend with.
The cap was unclipped but sitting on top of the distributor, however the rotor has been sitting on the valve cover for many years. Living in a small rural town for the last 2 years has been great, but stock at the local parts stores for older model vehicles is not as convenient as when we lived in the PNW. Tune-up parts ordered.
The cap was unclipped but sitting on top of the distributor, however the rotor has been sitting on the valve cover for many years. Living in a small rural town for the last 2 years has been great, but stock at the local parts stores for older model vehicles is not as convenient as when we lived in the PNW. Tune-up parts ordered.
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
As bad as it looks, the motor isn't stuck fortunately. The block casting # is 63-66, so that's likely original. The head has some remnants of blue paint, so likely replaced at some point. Someone put some work into this thing (brake and rear end upgrade) long ago before it was left to rot under some trees in Eastern Tennessee. The master cylinder is crusty externally, but when I popped the lid its dry as a bone and still looks parts store new inside.Nice
I have no idea how long its been off the road, but its got a Silver Dollar City bumper sticker on it. The Google says Silver Dollar City became "Dollywood" in 1986. The title I received is from 1985. Dollywood is only about 15 miles away from where I purchased the car.
That's my kind of a ride! Buy them cheap and drive them. I have a 64 that's currently a Fred Flintstone-mobile. When it gets its turn in the rotation it will be a 318 with 4-speed OD, LBP, 8.25 rear and whatever else I can scab off my parts cars to make it run.
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
The carburetor is rebuilt. What am I missing on this BBS from the choke assembly?
I've seen some photos (as well as graphics in the rebuild kit) of a triangular bracket attached to the shaft with a spring, but that bracket is different than what's on this particular carburetor.
I've seen some photos (as well as graphics in the rebuild kit) of a triangular bracket attached to the shaft with a spring, but that bracket is different than what's on this particular carburetor.
I say SORE, and discs! After all they did pay you to haul it off! right!??? 
Rock Auto is your friend
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I realize the choke assembly is available online with the rod but I wasn't sure about the bracket on the choke shaft on my carburetor.
I also didn't realize that the assembly is the same on both a BBS and a Holley 1920, and I have a few laying around from some Holley setups.
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
While trying to find TDC on the engine I noticed the rotor wasn't spinning. Pulled the distributor and the drive gear is split in half.. could be why it was parked in 1989, but I had another distributor on hand and dropped it in.
Installed a radiator from my 66, re-flared the crimped transmission cooler lines and bent some new tubes to replace what was hacked off to the radiator.
Put a new set of plugs and wires on it and attempted to crank. Fuel pump was bad, but again I had one from another engine so I swapped it out. Once the BBS started filling with fuel it it was leaking profusely from the airhorn/fuel bowl gasket even with the screws tightened as much as I could, so the carb is warped.
I dug the best looking 1920 out of my shed, sprayed it down with carb cleaner and mounted it to the engine. About 30 seconds of cranking before she finally lit, and within 10 seconds it was firing smooth on all cylinders.
Installed a radiator from my 66, re-flared the crimped transmission cooler lines and bent some new tubes to replace what was hacked off to the radiator.
Put a new set of plugs and wires on it and attempted to crank. Fuel pump was bad, but again I had one from another engine so I swapped it out. Once the BBS started filling with fuel it it was leaking profusely from the airhorn/fuel bowl gasket even with the screws tightened as much as I could, so the carb is warped.
I dug the best looking 1920 out of my shed, sprayed it down with carb cleaner and mounted it to the engine. About 30 seconds of cranking before she finally lit, and within 10 seconds it was firing smooth on all cylinders.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure that connects to a rod that goes to a thermostatic choke control. Basically a brass coil spring under a cover that pull the choke closed cold and as it heats up it opens and relieves tension on the spring. You can see the silver cover and rod in this picture.
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
I appreciate it! I'm tracking that, I just thought I might be missing something on the carburetor end. I'm good to go, over thinking it.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Interesting that someone apparently had been drag-racing that slant (based on wheels & tires) before parking it long ago. Looks like typical rust for AL, and even some cars in CA.
Iron Oxide
Well-Known Member
Maybe they had aspirations of drag racing, haha. The guy had a straight axle front end he was trying to get me to take home, too.
I really need to adjust the torsion bars back down, I'm not ready to fight the rusty lower control arms yet though.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
If you've never tried EvapoRust, it is great though pricey. You might need 2 jugs and a plastic container just the right size for the LCA. Scrape off as much rust as you can so the EvapoRust lasts longer. You might follow with a dip in phosphoric acid ("Concrete Etch & Metal Prep" at Home Depot) to convert any remaining rust in pits to black iron phosphate. A member in Sacramento occasionally sells restored Mopar suspension and brake parts and uses EvapoRust.
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