Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

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You're gonna want to drop the centerlink if you plan going out the top w/both
together, and be sure you have enuff ground clearance for the tail-end of the
trans when it's time for "full tilt".
 
Killer6 said:
You're gonna want to drop the centerlink if you plan going out the top w/both
together, and be sure you have enuff ground clearance for the tail-end of the
trans when it's time for "full tilt".
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Good advice. Thanks.

I am so use to working on my jeeps where you can almost sit under them.
 
Why all this talk? If you're gonna do it, then do it, post pictures and shut up all the blabberin.

Merry Christmas. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Why all this talk? If you're gonna do it, then do it, post pictures and shut up all the blabberin.

Merry Christmas. lol
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I know, right. I am such a tease. Well the talk is ending soon. After all this time researching and asking questions, I am finally ready to start digging into this fish next week during my Vacation.

Merry Christmas
 
I have built magnum V8 jeeps since 98 and only used magnum factory injection so I get the injection idea but the 4L is over 4" longer than the V8 and makes half the power. It is much too tall to even fit under the hood if there is a place for the length. Why not just put a 94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 in it? Half the work, twice the power and done in a weekend.

I see several issues related to the swap, engine height, engine length, motor mounts and of course, exhaust.

I understand your love for the jeep inline six but unless you are planning on doing tractor pulls with the 69, it seems like a big effort for little return.

I would advise against doing anything with a Dana 44 from a Grand except holding a boat in place, they are junk and explode just looking at them. They make a Dana 35 look tough.

Not trying to bag on your idea, but you seem to have a pretty nice start to a cool 69 fish and I dont get the engine downgrade concept.
 
magnummopar said:
I have built magnum V8 jeeps since 98 and only used magnum factory injection so I get the injection idea but the 4L is over 4" longer than the V8 and makes half the power. It is much too tall to even fit under the hood if there is a place for the length. Why not just put a 94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 in it? Half the work, twice the power and done in a weekend.

I see several issues related to the swap, engine height, engine length, motor mounts and of course, exhaust.

I understand your love for the jeep inline six but unless you are planning on doing tractor pulls with the 69, it seems like a big effort for little return.

I would advise against doing anything with a Dana 44 from a Grand except holding a boat in place, they are junk and explode just looking at them. They make a Dana 35 look tough.

Not trying to bag on your idea, but you seem to have a pretty nice start to a cool 69 fish and I dont get the engine downgrade concept.
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well, thanks for your comment. As you could expect I have heard this many the times. And it wont be the last time I hear this. Its not that i have a love for the Jeep 4.0L, its that I hate most V8's (with exception of a 427 HEMI which I can not afford ~ Please forgive me HEMI gods :prayer: ) that much. Like you said, way too easy to build power. With way to many after-market options. Takes no intelligence to build a V8. Just money. My last mopar which was a 72 Ply Duster was running a 225 slant 6 which I built while working at the local machine shop. My end result was 13.9 sec quarter mile time. Not too bad. And it was 1 of a kind. Always turned heads when I pulled it out. Sounded great too with the 2.5 inch flowmaster exhaust. Even better when you blow doors off V8's and all they can do is try to keep up. The crap talking comes to a halt pretty fast. (think little big man syndrome)

As someone who has been in jeeps since 94, I have seen my fair share. Many people have told me to dump my D30 as its weak. I have seem to found what works for me with both my 92 YJ running 33x11.5 and my 97 XJ running 32x11.5 both running High Pinion D30s with 1 piece drive shafts on the passenger side. Never have I broken a front axle. Never broke a D30 housing. And Washington wheeling is not known to be easy on rigs. I am well aware of the problems of the ZJ D44. Which is why its so easy to get as most people throw them away. So I can design and fabricate my rear 4 link suspension off that, then upgrade later if warranted.

Lets also speak more on the weakness of the ZJ D44. It has a aluminum center which the carrier bearings ride on. The only weak link in that axle is during side loading. Jeep is off camber, loads the weight of the rig on the downward axle shaft, transfers all the pressure to the carrier which exerts excess weight to the upper shaft carrier bearing, and there you have it. Broken. Blows out the bearing in the carrier. Needless to say if I am side loading my barracuda axle, I have bigger problems to worry about. The other bonus to the ZJ D44, its still a D44. Leaves lots of options for upgrades and gearing. Including factory install limited slip. Which is useless on a 5000 pound jeep, but a 2000 A-Body, may prove to be useful.

More on that magnum idea. Its way too complicated. And the factory fuel management is far more complicated than a YJ 4.0L. As someone who recently completed another project your going to disagree with, I swapped my sisters 89 YJ 4 cyl to a 94 Jeep 4.0L moving everything over to the 94 fuel management and full harness. So with I have seen just how simple the 4.0L fuel management is. In the jeep, its dang near standalone. Just had switch 12v, Hot, and Cold.

Probably the most important part of this project is that the Jeep 4.0L is a place holder till I can purchase and build an Aussie in-line 6 265 HEMI. You heard right, In-Line 6 HEMI. Going the 4.0 route will allow me to have the harness prep'd for that as well as gotten around all the other hurdles with a in-line 6 engine.

You also brought another good point. The torque of the in-line 6. With the same gears which I would run with a V8, such as 4:88, the barracuda would do great in a tractor pull. With the 4.0L, I can run 3.73 with plenty of power. Plus drivable for street use. And lets not forget about mileage. My XJ with 3.55's and 32's gets 19mpg driving to work which is 100 miles round trip. The XJ is not as good as my fuel sipping 2014 TDi Jetta, but is also not my DD to work everyday. What do you consider a barracuda running 3.23 gears would do? I suspect a nice 20mpg with plenty of power. The stock gearing the ZJ D44 comes with will most likely get adjusted. I am going to see what the 4.11s do for me, but most likely drop down to the 3.73 or even as low as 3.23 gears.

Finally, the nail in the coffin as to why I am doing this. With 2 other running jeeps and 7 engines in my garage and storage, if I break something, I have parts. Can get the car home, and then replace what needs to be replace.

Needless to say I have given this alot of thought. And with all those thoughts, I have made a decision. Which what I am now perusing. Tomorrow morning I start the tear down on my barracuda removing that dead v8 to be scrapped unless someone takes it.

Feel free to enjoy the thread. As the talk stops, and the wrenches start turning tomorrow morning.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Who made that?
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LMAO,....I knew you couldn't let that slide RRR!
Seriously magnummopar,you don't sound like you read this thread,just jumped in
to pimp your magnum swapping.If that's what you're about,why troll the slanty forum
at all,your forum is sixteen down.And since there is no shortage of wrecked rams in
the salvage yards,I can't understand why you would waste your time swapping in a
magnum anything when a genIII HEMI would kill it,so I don't understand your own
performance downgrade concept.
 
Pictures to come. After working this morning, the engine is ready to pull out. Stopping for lunch and to get bolts to hold the chain to the heads.

Where do people normally attach the chains? I am thinking of using the 3/8's bolts on the front and rear of each head. I saw what looks like a intake manifold bolt hole (manifold had been removed) which would work, but not so sure about that.

John
 
I am sorry for the late response. After working slowly throughout the day, The engine/tranny is held in with wishful thinking. Sadly, it was apparent that I was beat when I started to lift the engine out of the car when I noticed a sea of auto tranny fluid coming my way. Needless to say, I cleaned up that mess and called it a night.

I have pictures, but too tired to post. And tomorrow is a early start for me. I will get the pictures posted probably end of day tomorrow. I will be honest, the pictures are nothing special. More of the same routine pulling a engine out of a A-Body. I am posting them as proof of my moving forward.

The real meat and potato's will be when I start fab'n the new mounts.

Part of today was taken up when a friend suggested I may have had a 273 commando engine. So I spent some time to confirm that I have what I thought, a 318. Nothing special.

John
 
If you're using the "loadleveler" type spreader bar arrangement,and the intake
is removed,I would run a chain from the second set of intake holes back side to side
thru the front hook/loop,and the rear chain from the rear-most set thru the back hook.
If the length of the bar favors that,that way your kind of centered a little aft to
begin with.
 
JohnFM3 said:
Thx, my bad, type-o. 426 Hemi.

I must be tired, read thru that 3 times.
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It's ok. FWIW, there WAS a 427 Hemi. Ford made it. The SOHC 427 engine. Had it gone into production, IT would have been "THE" Hemi.
 
Killer6 said:
L
Seriously magnummopar,you don't sound like you read this thread,just jumped in
to pimp your magnum swapping.If that's what you're about,why troll the slanty forum
at all,your forum is sixteen down.And since there is no shortage of wrecked rams in
the salvage yards,I can't understand why you would waste your time swapping in a
magnum anything when a genIII HEMI would kill it,so I don't understand your own
performance downgrade concept.
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Not pimping anything, I read the thread because I wondered, why? I was not trolling ****, the thread was on the list of new threads and it was morbid curiosity that got me to read it in the first place. Just wondered why someone would want to un invent the wheel. As far as the Gen III being a magnum killer, yea, ok....bring yours to the track. Guess he is lucky he didnt have a garage full of Opal Kadet engines.

BTW the 4.0 injection on a 94 is EXACTLY the same as the V8 except for two injector plugs.

I will now return to troll/pimp the V8 section .
 
magnummopar said:
it was morbid curiosity that got me to read it in the first place. Guess he is lucky he didnt have a garage full of Opal Kadet engines.

LOL, Viva le differance!! hmmmm...an opal turbo... (edit K6)

I will now return to troll/pimp the V8 section .
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Have a happy Magnum holiday !:D
 
Hey Magnum, like most auto enthusiast. I build with the intention to draw people's curiosity. I hope you will continue to check back.

To all, I have had a productive vacation. I have that poor V8 out. And looking at it, I dont think its so old. Infact, I suspect it was poorly rebuilt and seized.

The block has that new casting look under the intake manifold and I swear the cam looks new.

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I must say that load leveler really worked out nicely.
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Ok, so I will say putting the 4.0L in with the tranny is NOT (I repeat NOT) possible with out some serious tilting.

So a question to ALL. Even Magnum dude... showing my love for ya.

Has anyone had any luck cutting the upper radiator support out? I am thinking of finding another piece which I can over lap the original about 3 inches on each side. And then allowing it to bolt together. I would cut the original one straight up at the radiator opening. And as said above, allow a 3 inch over lap on both sides and bolt it on. As I recall, it doesnt really hold the radiator. Its just where the hood latch system attaches too.
 
I would remove the K frame and install from the bottom like the factory did LONG before I hacked the car to pieces.
 
So after getting the 4.0L in, I found it was sitting on the steering linkage. As stated earlier in the thread, I am looking at AJE Racing K-Member which will use a Pinto Steering Rack. I have been in communication with them early on in this project. I have done the home work as many of you have expressed concern about them. I think it will work out. And they were the only ones who didnt gawk at me about my project. So right were my oil pan is wanting to sit is where the steering linkage is. As soon as I get the car lifted up some (as well as the engine) and get that linkage removed, I will get better pictures.

It does look like if I can buy some early CJ engine mounts, they will line up with the 318 mount location with the back of the engine sitting 1.5 inches off the firewall.

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I have kind of a busy weekend. I am working on my son's 76 datsun 280z. We just got it running xmas eve night. But my hope is to have some much better pictures of the engine in the barracuda engine bay with the linkage removed showing how well it fits.

I am not a fan of Mechanical fans. Which is good, as one wouldnt fit in here. I suspect I will be contacting Flex-a-Lite for a low profile pusher fan to put infront of the radiator. We will see.

In any case, Merry Christmas to All. I hope everyone has a safe and festive holiday and weekend.

John
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would remove the K frame and install from the bottom like the factory did LONG before I hacked the car to pieces.
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The sad thing is I know your right. Any good ideas for how to do that as a garage mechanic? I dont have the ability to lift the car high enough. Nor raise the engine once the car has been set back down.

The removable rail is what Jeep did with the XJ.

My only other option is to put the engine in first and then install the tranny from underneath the car. Which is my first choice as like you, I really dont like hacking a Barracuda.
 
As I understand it, the entire suspension is attached to the K-Member. So I have to be able to safely raise the front body of the car high enough to get the motor and tranny under, then lower the body to the point I can install the K-Member, then raise it back up to secure the suspension.

As I have never done it this way before, I am only able to surmise.
 
It appears you have an engine hoist, so yes, you do have the ability to lift the car high enough.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It appears you have an engine hoist, so yes, you do have the ability to lift the car high enough.
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This is true. I own a 2Ton engine hoist. With the hoist in the way, it would be kind of difficult to cart the engine under. Assuming I had a cart to hold the engine/tranny combo.

If I end up not cutting the chassis, I will probably just drop the engine by its self and pull the tranny from the bottom like I would a slant 6.

One of these days, I will buy a crane system. That is something that would get used in my garage.

John
 
If you say so I guess. Good luck!
 
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