Just a Note About New Lifters

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Bodyperson

Bodyperson

Pedal to the metal
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Pulled my new Hylift Johnson "made in USA" lifters apart yesterday. 3 of them had some corrosion. One was a lot worse than the other 2. Cleaned the oil off and soaked the bores in Evaporust overnight. They cleaned up pretty well. I was surprised to see them full of oil. Just the right amount, I guess.
 
Are you saying they were full of oil and corroded in the bores? Trying to understand what the problem was. Did Johnson add oil after corrosion set in because they were laying around in their shop.
 
tonysrt said:
Are you saying they were full of oil and corroded in the bores? Trying to understand what the problem was. Did Johnson add oil after corrosion set in because they were laying around in their shop.
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I think so
 
There was a thread somewhere on here where someone confirmed Johnson lifters are made overseas now.
 
With all the trouble trying to get new lifters and cams to mate well, we have another problem thrown in. Glad to see you caught it before they were installed. I bought a new cam and lifters and I guess it pays to see the internals of the new lifters before installation.
 
tonysrt said:
With all the trouble trying to get new lifters and cams to mate well, we have another problem thrown in. Glad to see you caught it before they were installed. I bought a new cam and lifters and I guess it pays to see the internals of the new lifters before installation.
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For what has been involved in this building process, I do not want to fall short at this point.
 
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DFX 340 Duster said:
Also a lot of moisture in the Pacific Ocean
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Salt Water Ocean, yeah that corrodes things.

1 mile off the Atlantic Ocean when in Florida, just the Ocean salt mist in the air will badly corrode and pit things real quick.

Anything bare steel is bad, tools and wrenches sitting around in the little tool shed all get rusty just from the salt in the air. In the shed under cover out of the rain.

Anything on a car body or a trailer with bare steel showing gets rusted and pitted bad. If it has paint on it, then it is fine because it is sealed and protected.


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With all the trouble mating up new lifters to new cams, have been wondering about setting up a bare short block and heads just to break in the cams?

Could find a way to pressurize the oiling system, run the cam with an electric motor to spin it. Run it without pistons so no pressure on the valve train, cam and lifters from the pressure of combustion.

Use very light valve springs on the valves to reduce strain on cam lobes.

Just easy pressure on the lifters and cam to polish the mating surfaces together, using plenty of oil pressure from an alternate source to keep things flushed clean and lubricated well.

Then when broke in well with no problems, then install the new cam and lifters in order into your new engine build.

And not having to worry about breaking in a cam, on first startup on a fresh tight engine.

Screenshot_20210728-170034_Gallery.jpg


Just thinking....


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That's such a good idea, Cam Research offers that service with their Cam King camshaft break in machine. Pretty cool.
www.camresearchcorp.com

Cam-King: Reliable Camshaft Break-In Solution

Experience the patented Cam-King for a hassle-free camshaft break-in. Submerged in oil, it ensures a steady RPM, making camshaft setup effortless.
www.camresearchcorp.com
 
I'm not an expert but from what I've read it seems the primary culprit for tappet failure is lifters not correctly ground.
 
Or not ground correctly for the spring pressure. I wonder if high pressure valve spring like less bevel.
 
I think it's mostly the lifter surface. Look up Powell machining on YouTube for an explanation they cover this really well.
 
Soo apparently, when Mr. gasket says 4 degree offset cam key it is 8 degree of valve timing change. Kind of makes sense as I am learning.
I was at 112 centerline and the key changed it 8. I was after 4 degrees change to put me at 108. Earlier, before I got the key, I was playing around and tried skipping a tooth and I recalled that putting me at 98. Hmmm 98 plus 8 is 106, close enough??? I did it and it measures out. Will this work?
 
Bodyperson said:
Soo apparently, when Mr. gasket says 4 degree offset cam key it is 8 degree of valve timing change. Kind of makes sense as I am learning.
I was at 112 centerline and the key changed it 8. I was after 4 degrees change to put me at 108. Earlier, before I got the key, I was playing around and tried skipping a tooth and I recalled that putting me at 98. Hmmm 98 plus 8 is 106, close enough??? I did it and it measures out. Will this work?
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The 112° lobe centerline was something the Chevys prefer.Back when I was drag racing, I used cams from Racer Brown who ground their cams on 108° lobe centerline. I don't know if they're still in business. Instead of using camshaft offset keys, I used timing gears.
 
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