Kill me now, please.

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72Valiant4Door said:
I loosened all the main caps and connecting rod caps... it was much easier to move.... then i torqued them... super duper ******* hard to rotate again.
Click to expand...

Bearing half out of place or a cap on backwards.
You are narrowing it down.
 
72Valiant4Door said:
I loosened all the main caps and connecting rod caps... it was much easier to move.... then i torqued them... super duper ******* hard to rotate again.
Click to expand...
All the numbers on the caps facing the same direction. They are numbered 1-5......
 
Time to tear that engine down and "start over" with a jaundiced eye.

Maybe wrong size bearings on a turned crank? Maybe wrong bearings PERIOD?

Is this a "re ring?" Maybe the piston rings are too tight, IE dirt / carbon in the piston grooves.
 
I have narrowed it down to something in the rod caps... i just torqued them down again and got all the resistance back.

ronswanson-gun.gif
 
67Dart273 said:
Time to tear that engine down and "start over" with a jaundiced eye.

Maybe wrong size bearings on a turned crank? Maybe wrong bearings PERIOD?

Is this a "re ring?" Maybe the piston rings are too tight, IE dirt / carbon in the piston grooves.
Click to expand...
bearings, that could be the issue, the rings, I think have been excluded when he loosened all the caps and it turned just fine

I think the idea to loosen one cap at a time until you find the culprit is the way to go
 
Sorry to read. Id.piss on his.computer then hit him with the breaker bar.
At the very least take a picture and post of him while he reads this thread.
I would think reversed caps and new bearings needed now
 
Spun rod. I had this problem and resolved it with a new set.

Jake
 
72Valiant4Door, I feel your frustration as I have been there before..............but I get a real kick out of your graphical representations that you included in your posts. With a sense of humor like that, I know that you will work the problem until it is solved instead of using dynamite to "fix it once and for all time"!
 
When your "wrench buddy" checked the bearing, did he make sure the bearing tang was seated in the rod & rod cap? I see a rebuild, or engine change in your near future. As stated in some previous posts, he would be an ex-friend & if it were me I'd be getting some money or hide for my troubles. No one touches the rotating assembly in my car. I double check myself because I've pulled some real boners on my own...
 
72Valiant4Door said:
I have narrowed it down to something in the rod caps... i just torqued them down again and got all the resistance back.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't trust me if I were you, but if I were you I'd pop for a new set of rod bearings. Check the shells for the size (they typically get marked 010/020/030 on the backside somewhere, or -001, -002, etc) and get the same oversize version from your local (decent) auto parts store. Ensure all caps are aligned properly, use plenty of assembly lube, torque them per spec (often a good idea to use a feeler gage to take up end-play of the rod ends while torquing. Keeps the torque from deforming the new bearings) and run the piss out of it. It sucks, but there's far worse things that can happen to a bottom end.

The reason I say to replace is because if a cap was flipped and torqued, it's possible the bearing was squashed. It can crack, and delaminate or will simply be out of round. Neither is good, and since you're already there it's relatively fast and cheap. So long as it's not a track car, your rod bolts should be OK so long as they torque up.
 
I think he said it was a non rebuilt engine that he was freshening up. Stock sized bearings. In that case no marks on the shells. And the Big end of the rods need to be CLEAN under the bearings. No harm putting in a new set of rod bearings.
 
So I am going to pull the rod bearings and replace them with new standard bearings. I guess I need to plasti gauge each rod. And I should clean and check each surface smoothing if needed and applying generous assembly Lube.

If I need to replace the main crankshaft bearings do I need to pull the crankshaft?
 
I'll guess rod cap put on backwards. All it takes is one!
 
I'm just frustrated at this point because the motor really needs to have its 112 compression and blowby fixed. I was just going to do a light freshen up and run it till I have the time and money for a better motor.
 
72Valiant4Door said:
I'm just frustrated at this point because the motor really needs to have its 112 compression and blowby fixed. I was just going to do a light freshen up and run it till I have the time and money for a better motor.
Click to expand...

If you can determine which rod is the culprit, that's really the only bearing that needs changed. Plasti gage is optional, but never a bad idea. Personally, I'd skip it, if the motor turns over after the new bearing is in and the cap orientation is verified.
 
Rod Cap might be on backwards as said. Both stamped numbers should be on same side.
 
You can replace the mains without removing the crank from the block.
 
And all the main caps should have the cast in arrow facing the font of the engine. The rear main cap has no arrow, no way to get that one backwards!
 
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