Kill me now, please.

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If this doesn't fix it. I am outta ideas.

All i did was change valve stem seals, and add a timing chain with tensioner... but i removed everything from the motor except long block... no oil pump. No intake. No front assembly. There should be nothing to resist other than valve train, cam, and rotating assembly.

I have sprayed lube on it twice a week since tear down.
 
Could the tensioner be adding a bunch of drag? I never run those things, just a thought.
 
crackedback said:
Could the tensioner be adding a bunch of drag? I never run those things, just a thought.
Click to expand...
I would have to say, no
my 408 has a tensioner on it, and I can turn it by hand with a 1/2 ratchet on the crankbolt

my money would be on a cap put back on wrong and possible bearing damage to the bearing under that one cap
 
72Valiant4Door said:
If this doesn't fix it. I am outta ideas.

All i did was change valve stem seals, and add a timing chain with tensioner... but i removed everything from the motor except long block... no oil pump. No intake. No front assembly. There should be nothing to resist other than valve train, cam, and rotating assembly.

I have sprayed lube on it twice a week since tear down.
Click to expand...

We're going by what you're telling us. When you loosened the caps, it turned over, right?

crackedback has a point: the tensioner could definitely make it tougher to turn over if there's excessive tension!
 
It doesn't matter if it does causes some drag, because i removed the entire front engine assembly when i was diagnosing.

I am down to assembled heads and small block.
 
Yes, and i could turn it over the entire time... but it took waaaaaaay too much force... felt like i may strip the crank/balancer bolt.


But when i loosened the rods and mains it was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier...

So i torqued the caps and then removed fuel pump, tested... removed water pump and timing assembly, tested. Loosened the rod caps, tested, AND BAM it finally got looser.

I didnt test the main caps, i tested the rods first.
 
72Valiant4Door said:
I loosened all the main caps and connecting rod caps... it was much easier to move.... then i torqued them... super duper ******* hard to rotate again.
Click to expand...

This is where your problem is. Tighten them one at at time until it locks down again and there is your problem. Only fix what you have to and leave the rest alone.
 
and when your done with it, take it over to your wrenching buddies house and see how much of his front lawn you can rip out with the rear tires ;)
 
But honestly it was still more difficult to turn over even with the rod caps loosened, than i think it really should be... but i am trying to be optimistic.
 
Sorry to hear it. The only way I'd feel good about it at this point is to disassemble and start over. I've nothing to add to what's been said. I would just start over with the rotating assembly. New rings that are tight can add friction. Through process of elimination, starting with the rotating assembly, you will find it. Just try one specific part at a time.
 
72Valiant4Door said:
But honestly it was still more difficult to turn over even with the rod caps loosened, than i think it really should be... but i am trying to be optimistic.
Click to expand...

With the cap backwards, it will still drag. Loosening it just points you in the right direction. Also, turning an engine with loose caps can increase the torque to do so.

Identify the offending cap and pop new bearings in it - I bet it gets closer to 'normal' after that.

There's a lot of reasons an engine can be tough to turn over that will account for differences between your engine and one on the floor. Just having the heads on and sparkplugs in will make it tougher to turn than a shortblock. I wouldn't worry so much, just fix the obvious issue and let 'er rip.
 
I think at this point you are chasing your tail. Pull each rod cap off and physically inspect the bearings.If a cap is on backwards like suggested tightening and loosing it and rotating it is only causing more damage as you go.
 
Might want to go back and check oil pump. I replaced mine and did not turn it over, same thing happened. I put it back without visually comparing it exactly and in and some manufacturers don't cut a groove in pump so it won't hit crank, Yes it happened to me. I went back and after taking pictures and sending to the Rock Auto guys they finally agreed that groove was missing and it was never reported before??????
 
Outta ideas? Pull it. Dis assemble. Get it right. Put it back in. It's a weekend job. A Saturday afternoon job if you get your *** in gear. Slap your so called friend upside the head and get to work. Just you.

72Valiant4Door said:
If this doesn't fix it. I am outta ideas.

All i did was change valve stem seals, and add a timing chain with tensioner... but i removed everything from the motor except long block... no oil pump. No intake. No front assembly. There should be nothing to resist other than valve train, cam, and rotating assembly.

I have sprayed lube on it twice a week since tear down.
Click to expand...
 
who mentioned the oil pump ?
it is possible to get it on not quite right and have the pump bind on the intermediate shaft
its two bolt
pull the oil pump and see what happens
 
oil pump is off.

I don't have an engine stand, the car is at a friend's garage, an hour from me, and I work Saturdays. I am trying to remedy the situation with engine in the car. or I am just going to buy a new engine. I don't have forever to work on this thing.
 
yea - being so far away from it doesn't help... don't let the frustrations of it all get the best of you - whatever it is, it can be fixed.. one thing at a time, take notes to avoid trying the same thing twice. I have read this entire thread, you've been given some great info - it's just an engine - turn wrenches, stay calm. Mopar on!!
 
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