Lagging when shifting?? (727 auto, w/ full manual valve body)

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Duster Fan

Duster Fan

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Recently my Duster has been having shifting problems :/ when I manual shift from 1st to 2nd it's not to bad, but from 2nd to Drive is where you can really see/feel it(almost like it goes into neutral before sliding into Drive). But if I just leave the car in Drive it's fine. Shifts through 1st, 2nd, and Drive smooth, a fairly quick too.

I'm not 100% sure what could be happening, after my incident with the trans shop I am a little concerned. But after changing my trans fluid I found little to no metal shavings and no burnt odor or anything out of the ordinary.

Also, the transmission is basically brand new(rebuilt anyway) it's only got about 1500 miles on it, and only been dragged twice. So do you guys have and sugesstions on what my problem could be?
 
sounds like a band adjustment to me.I don't know allot about them I do know the man that does mine throws allot of little springs away in mine.and it shifts in to 3rd as hard as 2...............Artie
 
......U guys have to give more info.......we can only guess with having 1/2 or less info.....So u have the Trans Go -2 in it then?....do u have the kick down/throttle pressure linkages/cable on it and set right?...shifting too soon is a misadjusted kd linkage/cable...or somethings likely not clearanced right, in that case tranny may/will need to come back out.........kim......
 
My 904 started doing that after I put in the stroker. Adding fluid helped but the issue is still there. It does it whether being manually shifted or in drive. 2-3 shift only as 1-2 is still tight. It's not the KD.

I figure I just need to get a HP rebuild done on the tranny.
 
My apologies. What's happening(or feels like it is) is when it shifts from 2nd to drive(when I manual shift it) it revs high, then you finally hear the tranny go into drive. Almost like it goes to neutral, but it doesn't. It does do it from 1st to 2nd but not as bad as going from 2nd to Drive. And the other thing, is it NEVER started F-ing up until I took it to that transmission shop.
 
Please clarify. Your title line says "W/ FULL MANUAL VALVE BODY." If it is indeed a full manual valve body then you don't have "D" you have 3rd gear. A fully manual valve body does not shift automatically at all.
 
airwoofer said:
My 904 started doing that after I put in the stroker. Adding fluid helped but the issue is still there. It does it whether being manually shifted or in drive. 2-3 shift only as 1-2 is still tight. It's not the KD.

I figure I just need to get a HP rebuild done on the tranny.
Click to expand...

Mine does have a SMALL leak, a little bit of build up, and only few drops hit the ground. For me, it does not do it in drive. It does it when manually shifted(2nd to drive is the worst). I'm going to add a little bit of fluid today, and see how much that helps.
 
JimSXT10 said:
Please clarify. Your title line says "W/ FULL MANUAL VALVE BODY." If it is indeed a full manual valve body then you don't have "D" you have 3rd gear. A fully manual valve body does not shift automatically at all.
Click to expand...

Huh, now I'm even more confused lol!! I was told there was a full manual valve body on it, and it DOES shift by itself...... So I'm guessing that means I don't have one?
 
What is probably the issue is that either the direct clutchpack has a leak in it, a possible broken sealing ring on the pump stator, or low pressure (Like a failing pump)
Could be a broken spring on the pressure regulator valve (Pretty rare though)

A pressure test is in order.

PS, you might want to be really easy on it till it gets figured out because those real slow shifts are pretty hard on clutch material.



Duster Fan said:
Huh, now I'm even more confused lol!! I was told there was a full manual valve body on it, and it DOES shift by itself...... So I'm guessing that means I don't have one?
Click to expand...
 
Definitely. I hardly ever take it above 3500 RPM when I'm driving. I was thinking about taking it to AAMCO(has anyone here delt with them before, and know what their pricing is like) in the morning to see if I can have a pressure test done. What should it register? Also it does have a full manual valve body, as I've found my original recipt, for the build.
 
If it can shift by itself when put in drive from a standstill, its not a full manual valve body.

My Signet has a manual valve body and if I put it in drive from a standstill, it goes directly to 3rd gear, no first and no second, only 3rd which is drive.
 
The valve body that's in it now is a Turbo Action Cheetah. Maybe I'm just imagining it shifting then? Or is it possible the valve body is bad?
 
.......Thats what i mean about not enough info.........Dont take it to AAmco..............find some1 that works on mopars in ur area.........kim............
 
Sounds like you high gear clutches are one the way out.
 
check your throttle linkage for proper adjustment
 
zijmer said:
check your throttle linkage for proper adjustment
Click to expand...

Yes, definitly! do that first.
My mistake, as I thought he already chked that but after I reread the original post he didn't mention chking it.

That's how they shift when it's disconnected.

Sorry about that.
 
Duster Fan said:
I was thinking about taking it to AAMCO.
Click to expand...

DO NOT (please) TAKE IT TO AAMCO or ANY OTHER chain, big box, or high volume "all purpose tune-up, muffler, and trans shop"

IF you must, find and check out an OLD one or two man solid local shop, and ask around about their reputation.

AAMCO is well known around the world for being all the way from just pain inept and stupid, to being a complete rip-off

Way way WAY back in the 70s a shipmate of mine took his 64 Chivvy in to them. Not only did they NOT do a good rebuild, but........

They left the Chiv 283 "hang" on the mounts with the trans out, the distributor cap got cocked against the firewall, and broke the cap and rotor If that was not bad enough, they did a sloppy job of installing the battery cable and when he parked it somewhere and came back, THE CABLE had WELDED ITSELF to the hot exhaust manifold and had BLOWN UP the BATTERY!!!

And no, he never did "collect" for all of it, exactly.

My own Dad--who should have known better, and didn't bother asking me--took his Icky Bleack Vsick into them around 78? Charged him 1500 bucks and it went for about a month. He finally asked the local retired Pontiac garage's expert "wah?" and THAT guy, a good friend of my Dad and I, pointed him to the shop he SHOULD have gone to. Turns out the trans never needed rebuilding at all, and the reason it failed was the work AAMCO did on it.

Back then, 1500 bucks was a fairly expensive lesson

some stuff:

https://www.google.com/search?num=2...4l0l1036848l16l16l0l3l3l0l253l1627l4.7.2l13l0
 
I gotta speak up here on this.
The basic business (rules) of how a shop operates is ultimately the owners decision, but also influenced a little here and there by the service manager.
I was a service manager in CA for a six bay shop and supervised/directed 6 employees.
My point is that you might take it to an Aamco shop, but only after checking into the local reputation of the business.
Our shop did damn good work, even if I had to do a recommended upgrade myself that made the trans better and stronger and the owner of the shop was telling me that is not Aamco policy.
:glasses7:

67Dart273 said:
DO NOT (please) TAKE IT TO AAMCO or ANY OTHER chain, big box, or high volume "all purpose tune-up, muffler, and trans shop"

IF you must, find and check out an OLD one or two man solid local shop, and ask around about their reputation.

AAMCO is well known around the world for being all the way from just pain inept and stupid, to being a complete rip-off

Way way WAY back in the 70s a shipmate of mine took his 64 Chivvy in to them. Not only did they NOT do a good rebuild, but........

They left the Chiv 283 "hang" on the mounts with the trans out, the distributor cap got cocked against the firewall, and broke the cap and rotor If that was not bad enough, they did a sloppy job of installing the battery cable and when he parked it somewhere and came back, THE CABLE had WELDED ITSELF to the hot exhaust manifold and had BLOWN UP the BATTERY!!!

And no, he never did "collect" for all of it, exactly.

My own Dad--who should have known better, and didn't bother asking me--took his Icky Bleack Vsick into them around 78? Charged him 1500 bucks and it went for about a month. He finally asked the local retired Pontiac garage's expert "wah?" and THAT guy, a good friend of my Dad and I, pointed him to the shop he SHOULD have gone to. Turns out the trans never needed rebuilding at all, and the reason it failed was the work AAMCO did on it.

Back then, 1500 bucks was a fairly expensive lesson

some stuff:

https://www.google.com/search?num=2...4l0l1036848l16l16l0l3l3l0l253l1627l4.7.2l13l0
Click to expand...
 
Seems that might be still in question though.
Full manual shifts on it's own, then cheetah,,,
Damn it'd be fun to see some of these problems in person, wouldn't it?

Lets make a TV show where a team travels the US diagnosing issues on classic cars.
The producers could tape the diagreements over what the problem actually is and make a big drama over it.
AND, the show pays for the parts and labor to solve the problem.
Guy's car gets diagnosed and fixed free, for being on the show.


oldkimmer said:
.......If he has a cheetah manual vb there is no kd adjustment...........kim...........
Click to expand...
 
Ok, well I did some tests of my own today, and what happens is there is a 2-5 second delay before the tranny shifts into 3rd(or drive). Now if I start off with the shifter in drive, it DOES shift by itself. And it does not do any sort of delay when being driven this way. However when manually shifted, it has a delay between 2nd and drive. Here are all the specs I know on the tranny:

A 727 that was rebuilt by Shift Management in Sacramento, CA, has Alto Racing Clutches, a dedicated TCI Trans Cooler, a 5.0:1 kickdown lever, a bolt in sprag(supposed to fix the weak link in the 727) and a 10" 3,000 Stall Hughes fully Brazed converter, and a supposed full manual valve body(which it obviously doesn't have).
 
bOb shingler said:
it probably doesn't have any of the other parts either.
Click to expand...

If I knew more about the trans. I'd put it in here. The guy I bought the car from wasn't very forthcoming with the info. I know what he told me, and a full to the brim 5-gallon bucket full of receipts to go off of.

It can't have the full manual valve body, as it seems to shift when left in drive. I know the governor went bad a year or two ago, maybe that went bad again.... Idk. I'm going to try for the kickdown linkage today, and see what happens.
 
Most guys throw the 5.0 "Second Gear Apply" AKA- Kick down lever in the trash and run a 3.8 or a 4.2 when building a transmission like yours...... I would say that is part of the problem.
 
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