Any time you change caster (the forward or rearward tilt of the steering axis) you will change the toe setting. Same can be said for camber (the inward or outward tilt of the wheel) the last angle you set is toe. Toe is always measured at spindle height. This eliminates the effects of camber. If camber was dead zero on both wheels, this would not matter. Caster is not a tire wearing angle (directly) Its nice to have toe roughly set as this can affect the caster measurement.
Adequate caster for radial tired A-bodies is difficult because the factory did not give or need the amount of caster that radial tires desire.
What CF’s link is trying to say is a radial tire is kind of mushy. It’s like driving a hacky sac ball (radial tire) compared to a super ball (bias ply)so the projection of the caster angle, the imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower ball joint measured forward to back and projected to the road surface contact patch, is a little behind on the radial compared to the bias ply tire hence the wanting of more caster for the radial tire.
There are a ton of other reasons for tire wear, especially when we depart from factory geometry. Set back has to be taken into consideration when setting toe. Pretty much need a computer for that.
Turn out on turns should me measured. Bump steer, scrub radius wheel offset change from factory really throws a monkey wrench into things. Hell just the tires themselves can make a car pull. I can’t count how many time I corrected a “pull” by cross rotating the front tires.
If I was Fred, I would give my tie rod adjusters about a 1/4 maybe a 1/8 turn inward on both sides. Probably some dynamic slop to overcome. Mark, I would swap my front tires side to side and see what happens.
quicktrickalignment.com
