Let's Build a 416 with Cast Iron Heads and Manifolds

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Scampin said:
What possible gain do you think you would get switching to w2 heads and still running through exhaust manifolds? If your goal is still through exhaust manifolds running 12's you are adding a whole bunch of money and work for absolutely nothing.
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Manifolds will kill power but not gonna stop you from making power, you get the air and fuel in the engine will force it out, biggest drawback is no collector and not gonna like a lot of overlap.
 
Dale Davies said:
Port flow and at what lift does it go flat is the determining factor for valve lift. Kind of wasting expensive heads that will flow high numbers up to 0.700" lift. Conversely using a cam that provides that lift with heads that peak at about 0.500"lift is pointless. If the heads peak at 0.500" valve lift, then a cam that provides a max lift of 0.530" will allow a few degrees more time at that flow rate. Considering that higher lift requires stronger springs to maintain valve control, and those springs create higher friction in the engine. A few thousandths will not create exponentially high loading.
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Yup. Like I mentioned: To a point.
 
Single or dual exhaust?
It will determine what size pipe is needed.
 
Manual drum brakes and manual steering work just fine for a fast stroker good grief. Give it more arm and leg for gods sake! Bunch of Nancy boys some of you guys are worrying about that ****. :rofl:
 
B3422w5 said:
To be a real purist, why even stroke it.
I have found going from a stock stroke to a stroker, all else being the same, only amounts to roughly 3 tenths, give or take a little bit.
With the stick, the car will actually have a chance of moving from point A to point B, compared to the tire smoldering and more clutch considerations with a stroker matches cranks.
12.40’s say one way, 12.70’s the other, or 11.80’s one way, 12 teens the other.
3 tenths I have found is just about where you can actually feel it in the seat of the pants… not night and day, but hey, feels a little stouter.
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Roughly 3/10 's that matches a utube post where a 360 was stroked to 408, all else the same that only added 34 hp
I'm skipping that stroking for a twin turbo set up with 100 horse nitrous nozzles on each turbo for very fast spooling on a 360 magnum
 
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And you guys ask why I like stock stroke engines so much especially for guys on a budget. Lots of money spent for little return unless you are have a drag race only car. Then we do it to upgrade our parts.
 
pittsburghracer said:
And you guys ask why I like stock stroke engines so much especially for guys on a budget. Lots of money spent for little return unless you are have a drag race only car. Then we do it to upgrade our parts.
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I feel a lot people build 408-416 cause the rpm band they build 450-550 hp at, somewhere in the 5500-6500 rpm range.
 
273 said:
I feel a lot people build 408-416 cause the rpm band they build 450-550 hp at, somewhere in the 5500-6500 rpm range.
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A stroker better at the very least add an additional 70-75 hp, if not the expenditure is pointless and not very wise.
 
If I had a rebuildable 360 core with a good cast crank I’d build me a 360 up to a certain horsepower level. If I needed a crank for it though, I’m not buying a cast 3.58” replacement or a even forged version. I’m going stroked, a forged 4” and building it to whatever level I was after. Simple. And going stroker doesn’t automatically mean, make it mandatory it has to be high CR, big valves, heads, mombo solid cams, drain pipe headers, yadda yadda yadda. Sure it’s a great option. By all means. You build it the way you see fit. Others don’t agree? They’ll get over it.
 
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fishmens67 said:
A stroker better at the very least add an additional 70-75 hp, if not the expenditure is pointless and not very wise.
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I think a big reason a typical Mopar small block stroker only picks up roughly 3 or maybe a bit more all things being the same type deal is because the heads used most of the time become a more noticeable liability on the extra inches.
look at even the old IHRA 900 inch mountain motors. They were, if memory serves, about 3 tenths quicker than a 500 non mountain motor deal. I think both shared the same head, didn’t they :realcrazy: crazy….
 
fishmens67 said:
A stroker better at the very least add an additional 70-75 hp, if not the expenditure is pointless and not very wise.
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I agree, seems like when larger makes more hp it's at a low hp per cid gain. More top end is a better way.

I'm still mixed on that, I think it's wrong or at least misleading to for most people say/think displacement adds hp especially it's automatically gonna add hp. It seems at times similar builds the larger one makes a little more for whatever (I think for secondary reason) 1st problem what is a similar/same build between different displacements.
 
B3422w5 said:
look at even the old IHRA 900 inch mountain motors. They were, if memory serves, about 3 tenths quicker than a 500 non mountain motor deal. I think both shared the same head, didn’t they :realcrazy: crazy….
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Were they same/similar bore size?

I'm guessing the 500 has a higher rpm powerband doubt it's 80% higher to make up the 80% cid difference?

B3422w5 said:
I think a big reason a typical Mopar small block stroker only picks up roughly 3 or maybe a bit more all things being the same type deal is because the heads used most of the time become a more noticeable liability on the extra inches.
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But with bigger heads the 360 should also be able to turn the 13% more rpms over the 408 (@ same tq:cid ratio) to make up the 13% cid difference. Obviously there's gonna be an rpm ceiling at some point.
 
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Here’s an example for my real track experience. My son needed an engine so I loaned him my 408. Now I pulled this engine because it was either in need of its fourth rebuild or block heading to the scrap pile. But it was still running 9.60’s in my duster. Well he borrowed it and ran 10.11 in his 3200 pound duster. This engine had a .660 lift roller cam. Both cars had 1 7/8 headers. He ran a 727 transmission and 5600 stall. I was running a powerglide and 5600 stall at the time. Well we built a stock crank 360 for him using the same heads and a .620 lift roller cam. That engine ran 6.50’s running a best of 6.54 three times at two different tracks. Check this chart to see where the 10.11 with my engine put him.

BB256A4D-E7FD-4C5D-AD18-762E22B6BF0D.png
 
12many said:
If I had a rebuildable 360 core with a good cast crank I’d build me a 360 up to a certain horsepower level. If I needed a crank for it though, I’m not buying a cast 3.58” replacement or a even forged version. I’m going stroked, a forged 4” and building it to whatever level I was after. Simple. And going stroker doesn’t automatically mean, make it mandatory it has to be high CR, big valves, heads, mombo solid cams, drain pipe headers, yadda yadda yadda. Sure it’s a great option. By all means. You build it the way you see fit. Others don’t agree? They’ll get over it.
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My grandpa drove an Oldsmobile. putting a stroked crank in a small block without the supporting parts, that's what you have just an Oldsmobile tractor engine. lol
Like you say, to each his own I guess.
Getting back to the original OP, I like where he's heading with this build, I see the manifolds as a minor hinderance at what he wants
 
Dale Davies said:
That was for those that keep pointing to aluminium or w series heads. The OP has stated his base materials and requested any pertinent information regarding those components.
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And your post accomplished what exactly?
 
Dale Davies said:
That was for those that keep pointing to aluminium or w series heads. The OP has stated his base materials and requested any pertinent information regarding those components.
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I expect you to go back and make stupid comments about every post in this thread that mentions anything but J heads. Go....
 
To the best of my knowledge, all of the best running FAST cars are running “larger than stock” engines........ in some cases over 100ci larger than stock.

Apparently stroker combos aren’t necessarily a low rpm kiss of death.
 
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