Lookin' for 12's

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mopar_matt340

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Hello, I'm new to this site, but it looks promising- you guys seem to know your stuff pretty well. Anyway, I have a 73 Duster 340:
340 + .030 10.5-1 KB flat-tops, balanced crank/rot assembly, erson hyd cam (296/306 avd dur, .502" w/ 1.6 roller rockers), TTI step headers+flomaster, 3.55 gear w/ suregrip, 6 pack carb setup, Mallory Hyfire VIAL, but i have stock 73 heads =( 1.88 I 1.60 E
with this combo i can turnout mid 13's on street tires, depending on when i can get some traction. I'm saving my money now to have a nice port and valve job on my heads such. I'm going to have them done to a "stage two" set up.
Am I looking in the right direction? Or should I just buy some pre assembled aluminum heads, like edelbrock or MP?
Any suggestions to help me dip into the 12's would be awsome.
Thanks,
Matt
 
sounds like a good combo. I would go for the Edelbrock heads. Your old heads are going to need alot of work. valves , guides, springs plus the port job. Its gonna add up fast. Id go for alittle more gear also. 3.91s or 4.10s and some sticky tires. You'll hit 12s.
 
Just my opinion, but .....
* If you are having traction problems now, you will have them worse when you add more power. You didn't say anything about your suspension. That should be upgraded to be more drag race oriented. But you should be careful as 6 cyl. torsion bars, drag shocks and SS springs compromise street handling. Removing unnessesary weight and the battery in the trunk will always help.

* A 6-Pack is more difficult to tune than a good 4 barrel intake and carb. A vacuum 750 will be easier to tune and more flexible. But a 750 double pumper will be faster if tuned correctly.

* A converter upgrade will help also, especially if it is still stock.

* I second the gear recommendation as that will be more appropriate for the cam.

* Porting and valve jobs can look good. But the person doing it MUST know what they are doing with Mopar heads. It's easy to hurt flow if grinding in the wrong places.

* It's best to stay a little on the conservative side and possible to find extra HP from fine tuning an existing combo with jet, squirter/pump cam, timing, shift point, launch rpm and rear tire pressure changes.

Otherwise, you seem to be off to a good start!
 
my 1st question is"WHATS YOUR 60'??"
i think with just a gear change and some stickies you might hit a high 12 NOW!!!....of course you really should put a 4 barrel on it for easier tuning.

i have a friend with a 440 GTX with a small .504 hyd cam and small valve heads go 11.80's in street trim and 11.60's open headers.
 
Yeah i know a 4 bbl is easier to tune and set, but i wanted to go with something different. you dont see many 6 pack cars around (esp small blocks) and yeah i forgot to mention i to have a 2600 stall in a newly built 727 with a manual valve body. It's an original 340 car, with stock suspension. The guy that quoted me on my heads is very good with mopar heads. i've seen his work on other cars, he knows what hes doing and quoted me a total price of $1400-ish, thats a full port, milling them down to around 68cc, new valves/guides, and port-matching my intake, plus more - the whole deal. I just put that cam/springs in 1500 miles ago so those springs are still in great shape. He says these will outflow any edelbrocks, and though summit it'd be nearly $1400 for the edelbrocks. so i'm not quite sure which i'll do but the porting looks like a better deal.
Now my 60' time is 1.90's, and i can turn out mid 13's all day, low 13's occasionally if i hook up and just scream away >D
 
1.90s doesnt sound like you have much traction issues. Whats your trap speed?

Is shdydell doing your port work ? I still think Id go with the new heads over the 30 year old iron. But RyanJ. knows his smallblocks if hes doing the work.
 
I can never just jump on it or that 60' is just terrible. I get those 1.95's just forcing the throttle 1/2ish- 2bbl style, and then letting all 6 open up a little down the track. My trap speed is around 101-102ish, but its not tached out or anything. I fly through the trap not long after i shift into 3rd gear.
My port work was quoted by Mr Dave Endrigo, he funs "Flow Technics" out of his garage here in Washington. Many of my car buddies and the locals all recommended him- hes well known for his mopar porting abilities. I've talked to a few racers that have had their heads done by him.
So, I should do the gears first? What ratio should I be looking at? 3.9's or 4.10? I'm running a 28" tire. Thanks
 
is this just an all out drag car or streetstrip?? i'd say 4.10s but i'm just getting into drag racing and don't know much...also i'd go with alum. eldys also...you'd shave some weight off the front some too...
 
You got yourself a good setup right now,id say go with a 4bbl an a good 650 holley,or eddy,step up to some 4.10's,an if i was u id look into a Caltracs system to get u planted at the track.
Good luck man
MIKE
 
340s love to rev. Id go with the 4.10s

I think your car would like more converter to. I run a 10" with my mostly stock 340.
 
around 3000. Works good with the factory 340 cam but doesnt like the 3.23 gears. It was better with the 4.30s
 
I am running high 11s low 12s with stock small valve J heads.I would try some gear,slicks and tuning before spending big money on the heads.
Heres what I have.
360 9.7 to 1 comp.,MP508/292,single plane int.750DP Holley,10 inch 3500 conv.3.91 gears.weight is 3350.
You are going to need at least 104 mph to get you in the 12s.I think your biggest problem is gearing.Caculating your gear and trap speed I figure you are only pulling about 4600 rpm through the traps.You need to get it up around 6000,this will pick your MPH up to where it needs to be.I would use 3.91 gears with a short 26 inch slick.It will be very streetable with your 28 inch street tires,and with the 26 inch slicks it should get your 60s down and your MPH up.
 
i have to agree with most of what everyone is saying...


sounds like you definatley need more gear and convertor. i think i would do that before the heads. when you get to the heads i would go with the eddy heads. can't beat them for the money. that car should go easy high 12's .


my 360 is a stock mp short block with eddy heads.the mp 292/508 cam performer rpm intake ,780 holley, 904, ati street fighter convertor and 3:91 gear. on a crappy set of bias ply tires and having to baby it off the line kinda like you explained the car went a 12.81 at 106 mph.
 
does any one have any ideas of wut kind of combo i could use for my 318 to get it down the 1/4 mile track in 12 seconds? i want my dart to be a street/strip car. i have no idea wut to do to it tho, i new to everything lol

Thnx for the help.
 
Dont know if I just missed it but I dont see him say his trap mph ??? Low 13's with a 1.95 60 ft but what was the mph so we have an idea of power the eng is making ? I agree withm more convertor and gear but it needs to make enough power to get in the 12's. I would say it needs at least 104 trap mph. Ron
 
tony,i should of said it THIS way....i cross the end at 6500 but im ALL DONE at 6200 which im at the 1000' mark. :shaking:
 
Looking at the combo, you should be in the 12s now. The gear is a street gear, but you said yourself, you cant floor it until you're moving. I would get some suspension work done. notice I didnt say buy anything? Getting a car to launch well is 80% knowledge, 20% parts, regardless of suspension type. Where is the pinion angle? What kind of lift/seperation does the body get? Is your ride height correct? (not nose down...). For the first buy, I'd go with the MP adjustable snubber, and a set of cheater slicks like 27" tall, as wide as you can safely fit. Also, the MP cahssis manual should be a buy too. When you can launch at full throttle, sticking the tires, and the 6bbl is openning correctly, then you can add power. Before that, it's a useless expense. Mike, you're still misleading with that pic..lol.
 
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