Woods74
Broke Senior
Thats on my wish list. I'm still looking for a reasonably priced unit that works well. I see the fast units have trouble reading rpms with an MSD.
Got my AEM Uego for $116 new off eBay. Lovin it.
Thats on my wish list. I'm still looking for a reasonably priced unit that works well. I see the fast units have trouble reading rpms with an MSD.
Got my AEM Uego for $116 new off eBay. Lovin it.
I don't think I can run a 235 DR. That is 2 inches shorter and 2 inches narrower than what I have now. I have traction issues as it is. I also have 15x10 wheels so a 235 might be pushing it there as well.
I have to look into them some more. I guess that is just a real-time unit that doesn't record? When I get one, I want to have one that records along with the rpm.
You want a 10 wide wheel with a 235, or 8 inch slick. You will have a bigger contact patch area. If you have traction issues look at your suspension. Just giving you something to look at.
Ray
That is interesting with the tires. I think the battery in the trunk is still a better idea. Putting the weight in the back and the 15 or so feet of 1 gauge wire is only going to be about 4 lbs spread out over the entire length of the car.If you are serious about weight, don't relocate the battery to the trunk. All that big copper cable isn't light. Buy a small gel cell battery (13lbs) and make a lightweight tray and hold down out of aluminum. Keep it under the hood and cable lengths short. With the small gear reduction starters, there is no problem starting a 11.2: 1 compression small block.
If you are thinking about running drag radials, definitely go with the smallest tire you can get away with. The MT 235 Drag radials weigh 28 LBS. The 275 weighs 33 LSB each. Rotational weight is worth 10x static weight.
33 - 28 = 5 LBS x2 tires= 10 LBS x10 (rotational) = 100 equivalent pounds which should net .10 reduction in ET.
My best 60ft on the MT 235 drag radial is 1.56 in a car putting down only 300 HP to the rear wheels.
I plan on installing a solid roller cam and raise my compression by about 1 point with a head gasket change. switching to a single plane manifold and 800 holley and I think I have those horsepower. I am also going to cut and box the k-frame and add a motor plate. I think I'll be pretty close in the spring. I will also be getting a glass deck lid, glass bumpers, glass rear bumper brackets and I'm trying to figure out a light weight front bumper bracket.I think you are just about to the weight of the bar you have to add... So you need to decide how serious you want to be - because you really need a weight loss program that's going to do more than peanuts, and to invest in the chassis tuning. I still think you'll need another 50-60hp to get there unless you get seriously into plastic body parts.
That is interesting with the tires. I think the battery in the trunk is still a better idea. Putting the weight in the back and the 15 or so feet of 1 gauge wire is only going to be about 4 lbs spread out over the entire length of the car.
I have 90/10 shocks front, rancho 9000 rear . Good idea running the cable on pass. Side. I still need to change out my bb torsion bars too.I also have a 9-1/2" converter that flashes at 4200