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They are a single but they do offer a dual controller but its cheaper to just get two aem gauges for each side. Their dual controller is $500 with no gauge and one sensor
 
I have to look into them some more. I guess that is just a real-time unit that doesn't record? When I get one, I want to have one that records along with the rpm.
 
I don't think I can run a 235 DR. That is 2 inches shorter and 2 inches narrower than what I have now. I have traction issues as it is. I also have 15x10 wheels so a 235 might be pushing it there as well.

You want a 10 wide wheel with a 235, or 8 inch slick. You will have a bigger contact patch area. If you have traction issues look at your suspension. Just giving you something to look at.



Ray
 
I have to look into them some more. I guess that is just a real-time unit that doesn't record? When I get one, I want to have one that records along with the rpm.

The innovate LC-1 is easier in that regard, and priced about the same.
 
You want a 10 wide wheel with a 235, or 8 inch slick. You will have a bigger contact patch area. If you have traction issues look at your suspension. Just giving you something to look at.



Ray

I definitely have suspension issues. I have stock leafs in back. Anyone have an opinion on caltracs Vs. ladder bar setup? Keep in mind I have a lower horsepower and heavier car. I think my goal with this car would be low to mid 10's ultimately.
 
id do split monos, a traction bar setup, and some sliders.. there are guys 60 footing some amazing numbers with this setup.. even with the 20'' front segments.. a mini tub and some 315 radials would look good under there to..
 
If you are serious about weight, don't relocate the battery to the trunk. All that big copper cable isn't light. Buy a small gel cell battery (13lbs) and make a lightweight tray and hold down out of aluminum. Keep it under the hood and cable lengths short. With the small gear reduction starters, there is no problem starting a 11.2: 1 compression small block.

If you are thinking about running drag radials, definitely go with the smallest tire you can get away with. The MT 235 Drag radials weigh 28 LBS. The 275 weighs 33 LSB each. Rotational weight is worth 10x static weight.

33 - 28 = 5 LBS x2 tires= 10 LBS x10 (rotational) = 100 equivalent pounds which should net .10 reduction in ET.

My best 60ft on the MT 235 drag radial is 1.56 in a car putting down only 300 HP to the rear wheels.
 
If you are serious about weight, don't relocate the battery to the trunk. All that big copper cable isn't light. Buy a small gel cell battery (13lbs) and make a lightweight tray and hold down out of aluminum. Keep it under the hood and cable lengths short. With the small gear reduction starters, there is no problem starting a 11.2: 1 compression small block.

If you are thinking about running drag radials, definitely go with the smallest tire you can get away with. The MT 235 Drag radials weigh 28 LBS. The 275 weighs 33 LSB each. Rotational weight is worth 10x static weight.

33 - 28 = 5 LBS x2 tires= 10 LBS x10 (rotational) = 100 equivalent pounds which should net .10 reduction in ET.

My best 60ft on the MT 235 drag radial is 1.56 in a car putting down only 300 HP to the rear wheels.
That is interesting with the tires. I think the battery in the trunk is still a better idea. Putting the weight in the back and the 15 or so feet of 1 gauge wire is only going to be about 4 lbs spread out over the entire length of the car.
 
I think you are just about to the weight of the bar you have to add... So you need to decide how serious you want to be - because you really need a weight loss program that's going to do more than peanuts, and to invest in the chassis tuning. I still think you'll need another 50-60hp to get there unless you get seriously into plastic body parts.
 
I think you are just about to the weight of the bar you have to add... So you need to decide how serious you want to be - because you really need a weight loss program that's going to do more than peanuts, and to invest in the chassis tuning. I still think you'll need another 50-60hp to get there unless you get seriously into plastic body parts.
I plan on installing a solid roller cam and raise my compression by about 1 point with a head gasket change. switching to a single plane manifold and 800 holley and I think I have those horsepower. I am also going to cut and box the k-frame and add a motor plate. I think I'll be pretty close in the spring. I will also be getting a glass deck lid, glass bumpers, glass rear bumper brackets and I'm trying to figure out a light weight front bumper bracket.
 
Wow, almost 20 lbs. right there.
 

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That is interesting with the tires. I think the battery in the trunk is still a better idea. Putting the weight in the back and the 15 or so feet of 1 gauge wire is only going to be about 4 lbs spread out over the entire length of the car.

A 2/0 battery cable is about .5 lbs per foot. It's really insignificant. It may be as you mention about a 4 pound delta when all said and done.

Plus you can run the cable up the pass side which is beneficial in regards to weight bias. Out of the left front and moved primarily to the right side.

Chassis tuning with a GOOD shock is not a bad idea.

Converter would be another area to look at. I'd want something that flashes to the 4500 range and stays tight up top.
 
I have 90/10 shocks front, rancho 9000 rear . Good idea running the cable on pass. Side. I still need to change out my bb torsion bars too.I also have a 9-1/2" converter that flashes at 4200
 
I have 90/10 shocks front, rancho 9000 rear . Good idea running the cable on pass. Side. I still need to change out my bb torsion bars too.I also have a 9-1/2" converter that flashes at 4200


What camshaft, Gear ratio are you running? That's a lot of stall.



Ray
 
.231/.239@50 587 lift hydraulic roller with 1.6 roller rockers. 4.10 gears. the car works very well with this setup.
 
Is this the engine with a low rise 2x4 ece set up?

If so, I bet there would be 3 tenths improvement in a single 4 set up.

I'd guess that would make in the 525-550 range with what you mentioned and single 4. Might be making 500 if lucky with a low rise 2x4.

If you like the look of the 2 4's, got to live with the handicap it will have.
 
I'm at about 400 to the wheels right now. I have a victor intake with an 800 Holley on top that I have been trying to get to work. I had issues with it breaking up but the distributor was the problem. I figured it out too late for this year. I'll put the single 4bbl on this spring and let you know what happens.
I like the look of the dual quads and will run them at NSS races. But I was thinking of going with an edelbrock2x4 with 600's for that. The Edelbrock looks like a much better design than the offenhauser.
 
What did you degree it in at? Lobe separation? Is this a 10.5 440 with iron heads? what do they flow?



Ray
 
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