fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
BTW For a performance 727 it's always a good idea to toss the little spring on the servo piston and shim it solid.
Lost reverse, need help finding it. 727
- Thread starter Mopower71
- Start date
-
I'd like to chime in, if I may... and I KNOW I'll offend someone here..
It's your converter. I have the same gear/tire combo as you and run 122mph at 6400 rpm in the heat. Converter is nothing special.. just a $600 TurboAction S-800 med.
I have seen this more times than I'd like to count... unless it's broke, you've got a junk converter. converter is Sooooooo inefficient, you loose all your ET in the back half cause the car don't mile-an-hour good.
PLEASE, save this scenario for the phord/shivy guys.. I beg you.
Dynamic Converters is just down the road from you. They'll treat you right, have decades worth of experience, and you'll think you added 100 more hp.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
What is the rest of your combo.
What stall is the converter you have.
Is that their 11" converter
No, it's classified as a 10". but Paul @ Turbo Action will tell you, it's actually a 10 1/2"
It flashes in the 4200 rpm range, but it only has about 5% loss. Yours is roughly 15% that's why your trap speed is down. just not coupled good. You could expect as much as 4 tenths and 4 mph with the right converter. seen it happen before.
My combo? 3140# Dart, 12.34 CR 360, ported procomps, W5 int, .638/.656, 255/260 .050 solid, self done 650dp, ( trying to get a 950 working now) Dougs 450 headers, 3" Exh, 904, MRVB, TA 10", 4.11's/spool, MT 295's
last pass: 11.103 @ 121.52 and an abysmal 1.6 60'. at 1625 DA
I've got a Lupo 9 1/2 in now. I'm looking forward to my next time slip.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Trailbeast have you installed one of the super servos?
I can't seem to get the seal to slide past the retaining ring groove. Without the seal it slides right in.
I don't see how its even going to slide in with the stabilizing ring on it.
Any suggestions?
First I tried living it with transmission fluid, then I tried petolum jelly, as stated in one of the rebuild videos.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Put a hose clamp around the seal and tighten up pretty good, then stick it in the freezer for 20 min or so.
Be ready to put in in AS SOON as it comes out of the freezer.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Freezing it is a good trick. I have also used a very thin feeler gauge to fold the seal down as I push the servo in. Slide the feeler around the bore as you give it a little pressure.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Thanks trailbeast, I will give that a try
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Thats a good idea also. Not sure it would work with the stabilizing ring
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
My 2 cents; l stick it all the way down into the bore sideways, then start to straighten it up, all the while making sure it has gentle contact with the bottom, and maybe sometimes give it a little twist as it levels off. Then l pull it halfway out, cover the port with my thumb and try to push it in to pressure test it.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
That's how Chrysler should have made all their L/R servo pistons. On that one, I would use a trick I learned from what I found in a lot of overhaul kits. Some of them provide a green plastic circle about five inches in diameter to help roll the edge of the lip seals in. Just cut a smaller circle of plastic out of a milk carton or anti-freeze jug; about 3" in diameter and roll it around the servo bore; using gentle pressure on the piston, until it clears the groove. I used to use a feeler gauge, but it's pretty easy to slice the lip. Some pistons; like the direct clutch one; has that flange that makes it so you can't get to the seal edge. On that one the freeze method works great. I put a big rubber band over them.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
So this is whats in the pan now after driving it up and down the driveway. A few launches, and it got parked.
Fast forward many months and the pan gasket is leaking. Car has just been sitting.
Got the chance to change the gasket and this is what I find in the pan.
Now what?
Fast forward many months and the pan gasket is leaking. Car has just been sitting.
Got the chance to change the gasket and this is what I find in the pan.
Now what?
Mopower71
Speed Demon
The servo fixed the problem with reverse. And the transmission shifted well.
Maybe the reverse band is pissed it had to work with the higher pressure now ?
Maybe the reverse band is pissed it had to work with the higher pressure now ?
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Any ideas on if it looks like clutch or band?
Mopower71
Speed Demon
New pan gasket, fluid and send it?
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Take it out.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
I should. And I probably will. It's a pain. And I either fight with it around the headers or take them loose, which is also very fun.
Mabey next year I will run it again.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Doesn't look like either to me. Maybe it's just my monitor but it looks like small gravel here. Either way about it the trans needs to come out and gone through and everything, and I mean everything, needs flushed good to get that crap out or you'll have the same problem again in no time
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Need some help.
I don't want to just put clutches in and have this happen again.
Bigblock 727. Rebuilt years ago,red alto clutches, kolene steels. all new bushings, thrust washers, both bands, cheeta manual reverse valve body, not a lot of time on it, 50 miles at most, and a few 1/4 mile passes.
Just driving in driveway and lost reverse. The servo cracked. Replaced with billit servo. Pan was clean, no clutch material. New fluid. Car sat and the pan gasket was leaking so I pulled it and found what is pictured.
Pulled trans and found one clutch plate in the front pack disintegrated, the one all the way at the bottom.
Also found the fiber washer between input and output shaft was only half there.
And the edge of the front most planetary gear the edge was hitting and wearing the metal, making metal fragment on the edge.
What would cause just the one clutch to lose the clutch material?
And would the one input to output fiber washer cause the interference and wearing of the edge of the planetary gear ?
Thanks for the help.
I don't want to just put clutches in and have this happen again.
Bigblock 727. Rebuilt years ago,red alto clutches, kolene steels. all new bushings, thrust washers, both bands, cheeta manual reverse valve body, not a lot of time on it, 50 miles at most, and a few 1/4 mile passes.
Just driving in driveway and lost reverse. The servo cracked. Replaced with billit servo. Pan was clean, no clutch material. New fluid. Car sat and the pan gasket was leaking so I pulled it and found what is pictured.
Pulled trans and found one clutch plate in the front pack disintegrated, the one all the way at the bottom.
Also found the fiber washer between input and output shaft was only half there.
And the edge of the front most planetary gear the edge was hitting and wearing the metal, making metal fragment on the edge.
What would cause just the one clutch to lose the clutch material?
And would the one input to output fiber washer cause the interference and wearing of the edge of the planetary gear ?
Thanks for the help.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
I will tomorrow. Have to pull the clutches back apart. Reassembled them so they didn't get scatered
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Washer goes here.
Half missing and I pulled the trans all apart and never found the other half.
Half missing and I pulled the trans all apart and never found the other half.
There is no way a properly rebuilt trans would do that.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
What do you mean by "disintegrated"? tiny pieces or large areas coming off in one piece? I always make sure that all the fibers in the front pack match.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
-
