"Low Band "apply question

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Divenut

Divenut

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Hello all,

New owner of a 72 340 Duster w/a Reverse Manual Valvebody 727. Plans are to make her a capable strip car, with occasional trips to local cruises/shows. I have found many references here on the forum regarding "Low Band" Apply, i.e. good/must have for safety (keeping feet intact) and to avoid grenading the tranny. Wondering if there is a way to determine if the low band is/ins't set up without pulling/opening the tranny up. There were some references to engine braking etc, but thought I'd ask the question to those of you that are "in the know".

Thanks in advance!
 
Run it up in low gear and back off the gas. If there's engine braking you have low band apply. If it coasts like it's in neutral, you do not.
 
and the only reason the trans will grenage is if you mess up the sprag... and the way to do that is incorrect burnouts in first...

thats why most just start in second... then there is no issue...
 
per turbo action instructions on their non-low apply valve body...

Chrysler/Amer. Mtrs. “727”, “904”, “998” & “999” Transmissions
All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you should
start burnout in first, shift immediately to second before tires come out of water. No matter whether
it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to deaccelerate
engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure tires never grab dry pavement.
The power burnout provides the best E.T.’s if no dry burnouts are done. No matter if you have a
tranz brake or not, we suggest not doing dry burnouts!
Note - Rear End Breakage & Driveshaft Breakage: If rear end or driveshaft breaks while in first
gear acceleration or burnout, remove transmission and check rear roller clutch for
damage.

the important thing is to not come out of the water in 1st gear...and shock the trans went it hit dry pavement..
 
70aarcuda said:
No matter whether
it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to deaccelerate
engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure tires never grab dry pavement.
.
Click to expand...

I don't understand this last part, and I've read it before.

Hell what are you supposed to do if the tires are broke loose ON DRY PAVEMENT in 2nd or 3rd gear?????
 
67Dart273 said:
I don't understand this last part, and I've read it before.

Hell what are you supposed to do if the tires are broke loose ON DRY PAVEMENT in 2nd or 3rd gear?????
Click to expand...

i dont think its an issue as long as you are not in first as it wont effect your sprag...

you just want to roll out of it vs letting off the gas...
 
67Dart273 said:
I don't understand this last part, and I've read it before.

Hell what are you supposed to do if the tires are broke loose ON DRY PAVEMENT in 2nd or 3rd gear?????
Click to expand...

What is important is that the tires do not grab DURING or immediately AFTER the shift. That is where the shock can break the overrunnung clutch.
 
StrokerScamp said:
What is important is that the tires do not grab DURING or immediately AFTER the shift. That is where the shock can break the overrunnung clutch.
Click to expand...

OK how in hell is anyone supposed to have any control over that?

you leave the line/ stoplight/ launch on a back road in 1st, and it spins

FOR AN INDETERMINATE TIME

At some point it either stops spinning, or you / it shifts into second when

IT ALSO might / probably will spin FOR SOME TIME

It might stop spinning immediately or not, depending on traction.
 
those instructions are in relation to water burnouts.......


and


No matter if you have a
tranz brake or not, we suggest not doing dry burnouts!


those probably in the instructions so that went you call and say your trans blew up.....they can say...did you read the instructions...LOL
 
67Dart273 said:
OK how in hell is anyone supposed to have any control over that?

you leave the line/ stoplight/ launch on a back road in 1st, and it spins

FOR AN INDETERMINATE TIME

At some point it either stops spinning, or you / it shifts into second when

IT ALSO might / probably will spin FOR SOME TIME

It might stop spinning immediately or not, depending on traction.
Click to expand...

now thats what i am interested in...
 
What i like is in parking lots going 5--10 mph. You can leave it in 1st gear and get up to 10-even 15 mph and let up and no drag, and motor idles at 900 rpm, slow the car way down and tap in the gas a bit to get around the lots, you can lightly bark / chirp the rear tires during turns if you want.

With band apply the engine slows the car down so you want to shift in to 2nd, that stinks cause then you might want 1st gear again 10 seconds later.

Just never shock the drivetrain while in 1st gear.
 
I rode in a chebby that didnt have low band apply and it gave you that feeling somthing was wrong, every time the guy was off the throttle the car would coast and the engine would go to idle, then when he was back on the gas the engine would rev to meet the car speed, didnt seem right. As for dry hop burnouts after the water, i read an article from a trans or converter manufacturer that said the first launch after your water burnout will be the best your going to get, so dont do dry hops. I roll to the lights after the water burnout.
 
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