Low buck 360 build

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Nothing gets me going like a set of well lubed head (bolts)

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Thanks @RAT ROD AL for the nice head and main bolts!

Heads now installed. Still gotta torque. Probably just run it down with the impact. Good idea?

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hmmm.....so how you gonna degree the cam with "that" timing set?
 
hmmm.....so how you gonna degree the cam with "that" timing set?
I'm gonna squint my eyes and see if the intake valve on no1 is opening about the time piston 1 is @tdc!

That there, my friend, is a high quality, brand spanking new, high performance timing chain, sure to deliver me miles and miles of good smiles and entertainment!

:lol:
 
Run them down with a impact gun?

Ahhhhh, NO!

Bolts are over lubed. A thin coating on all the threads wiped clean is PLENTY!!!!
 
I'm gonna squint my eyes and see if the intake valve on no1 is opening about the time piston 1 is @tdc!

That there, my friend, is a high quality, brand spanking new, high performance timing chain, sure to deliver me miles and miles of good smiles and entertainment!

:lol:
Then you may as well have used a stock cam. I've seen that stock type chain set be 13 degrees retarded before. Good luck with it.
 
hmmm. Ok maybe I'll give it a check with the degree wheel.
Here's your situation. The camshaft is one make. The timing set is another. If you use the same make chain set as the camshaft, you're lessening your chances of being off by a large amount........USUALY. This is also why I always recommend a high end timing set. Camshaft timing is THAT important to how an engine performs. Imagine if you check it you find it's 6 degrees retarded, for instance......from zero. That's probably TEN degrees retarded from where it should be, because it's "probably" supposed to be at 4* advanced. It's worth spending 100 bucks on a GOOD billet timing set and if it's not to you, then just throw the motor in the ditch. Cutting corners on camshaft timing is just not acceptable for the performance of a supposedly "performance" build, whether it's budget or not. You know me.......I hardly have money fallin outta my asshole, to quote Darnell, but I'll find a way to use good parts where they should be.
 
Here's your situation. The camshaft is one make. The timing set is another. If you use the same make chain set as the camshaft, you're lessening your chances of being off by a large amount........USUALY. This is also why I always recommend a high end timing set. Camshaft timing is THAT important to how an engine performs. Imagine if you check it you find it's 6 degrees retarded, for instance......from zero. That's probably TEN degrees retarded from where it should be, because it's "probably" supposed to be at 4* advanced. It's worth spending 100 bucks on a GOOD billet timing set and if it's not to you, then just throw the motor in the ditch. Cutting corners on camshaft timing is just not acceptable for the performance of a supposedly "performance" build, whether it's budget or not. You know me.......I hardly have money fallin outta my asshole, to quote Darnell, but I'll find a way to use good parts where they should be.
All generally fair points. I'll check it out and report back. Maybe it'll be a shade advanced fingers crossed :D

I do have high quality billet bling. Just not for this build.
 
All generally fair points. I'll check it out and report back. Maybe it'll be a shade advanced fingers crossed :D

I do have high quality billet bling. Just not for this build.
Anything's possible. My point is even though this isn't a high dollar build, you still want the cam and ignition timing correct for the build.......right? RIGHT? LOL
 
Dangit @RustyRatRod you were right. Cam card calls out a 106 deg ICL and crap I'm at 108. **** I think I'm just gonna throw this cam in the garbage now! :poke:

Just kidding with you. I feel better now that I did this at least. If anything maybe it'll have a little extra pep down low. Now, when I go for help on the site about something at least I'll be able to tell the guys the cam was degreed.

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Dangit @RustyRatRod you were right. Cam card calls out a 106 deg ICL and crap I'm at 108. **** I think I'm just gonna throw this cam in the garbage now! :poke:

Just kidding with you. I feel better now that I did this at least. If anything maybe it'll have a little extra pep down low. Now, when I go for help on the site about something at least I'll be able to tell the guys the cam was degreed.

View attachment 1716001046
108 is retarded 2 degrees, but it won't hurt anything. That's close enough for throwin it in.
 
^^^ Did not feel like playing "what time is it" with your rebuild?? Woosey... lol.
 
108 is retarded 2 degrees, but it won't hurt anything. That's close enough for throwin it in.
I kinda thought that as soon as I pressed send. It's not something I do often enough. Ok so maybe it'll have a bump extra at the top?
 
I kinda thought that as soon as I pressed send. It's not something I do often enough. Ok so maybe it'll have a bump extra at the top?
Well......honestly, if it was me, I'd fix it. Because that cam......while mild, is going in a stock low compression engine. In fact, if I was do in it, I'd install it probably down around 102 just to make sure it had some decent bottom end torque. Probably splittin hairs, but that's how "I" would do it. Still though, that's pretty close for a POS timing set. lol
 
for the intent of the motor, i'd leave it.
it's still 2* advanced. if the timing set were easily adjustable then i'd probably move it...
 
It's staying where it is. I agree in principle but the main thing here is cost. It'll run just fine.
 
In the meantime, heads now torqued down, with the use of my snap on clicker, and, thanks to the miracle of adhesive remover, Holley ridiculous gaskets all gone!

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Be nice to see the 'ridiculous' Holley gone to the same place as the gaskets.......
 
for the intent of the motor, i'd leave it.
it's still 2* advanced. if the timing set were easily adjustable then i'd probably move it...
It's retarded. Should be 106. It's 108.
 
Be nice to see the 'ridiculous' Holley gone to the same place as the gaskets.......
Yeah? What should I put on it? This 3310 is made for mild to lightly modified engines, shouldn't be too far off from being pretty good.
 
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