Magnum and Wiring Swap

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Got it installed and it was just bad as I thought it would be with the harness and the A/C box.
Top view. It's buried in there.
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Bottom view. It's right on top of the evaporator housing. I'll have to get creative with the plastic duct work.
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With it being jammed in here, the spring for the windshield washer can't push the knob and shaft back out. Just have to keep that in mind and hope it wears itself some clearance.
 
Thanks! I wanted to keep as many of the Dakota's modern (in comparison) features as possible. Cruise control is on the list too, just have to figure out how to drive the VSS and the speedometer.
I would like to see how you made the cruise work, if you don't mind.
No problem, I did my first ever build thread for the cruise upgrade: Rewiring my EFI Magnum - 1970 Dart Swinger

You might find I got a little side tracked and did several upgrades that weren't part of the original plan. If you're short on time most of the cruise control stuff is on page 2. Otherwise give the whole thread a read and let me know if you have any questions.
 
Not to highjack this thread, but Kerry Kinser is working on a relay box to control the o/d when installing an o/d trans.
 
Not to highjack this thread, but Kerry Kinser is working on a relay box to control the o/d when installing an o/d trans.
Yeah, I just saw that. It looks like something Arduino based, but I didn't ask about it.
 
I posted the PCM part nunumber and asked about if VTSS could be turned off in the Magnum EFI group. Here are screen shots of that conversation.
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I kind of think that I am the only one that has ever thought about actually using VTSS instead of fighting or fearing it. But that is kind of a separate question from what you asked on FB.
 
I kind of think that I am the only one that has ever thought about actually using VTSS instead of fighting or fearing it. But that is kind of a separate question from what you asked on FB.
I like your idea of using it. I would do the same if I had the CTM and power door locks. I just want to make sure I won't have any issues because of missing hardware.
 
I don't often buy from forums or online groups for that very reason. When I do take that risk I use Paypal goods and services and pay the extra fee. So far I have been lucky and haven't been burned trying to buy Mopar parts or parts for my 85 Supra. Yet.



I was asking because I didn't use a speed sensor when I was running a 904, and the engine use to backfire (afterfire?) through the exhaust on deceleration. Not like a modern performance tuned BMW, but it was bad enough that I didn't like it. Then I upgraded to a 46rh, but I wanted to keep my mechanical speedo so rather than figure out a solution I initially used pressure switches to control the OD and lockup.

Before long I found my answer: late 80s / early 90s mechanical speed sensor, like on a 91 Dakota (for example). As a bonus to having the PCM control OD and LU, and still having my mechanical speedo, I found as soon as I connected a speed sensor the afterfiring out the exhaust stopped happening on deceleration. Apparently the PCM will give the engine a bit of idle air on deceleration and that prevents the afterfiring. I have heard this problem doesn't exist with later OBD2 setups that aren't using a speed sensor, so maybe the engineers figured out a different way to prevent it from happening.

Here's the sensor I used:

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SC108

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You can see one side screws into the speedo gear output on the transmission, there's a mechanical speedo output, and a 2 wire sensor connection. A few notes...

- I replaced my speedo cable with one from a 91 Dakota. It has a 5/8" nut as opposed to the 7/8" that would be used on the 904, and it has the push-on connector on the speedo side. At 80 inches it's a couple inches long even for my 46rh (but manageable), so it might be too much for a 904. I'm not sure if they make a shorter 68 inch cable with the 5/8" nut and push-on speedo end.

When I put in the 46rh I had one of these cables to extend my stock speedo cable to reach the 46rh speedo gear housing. I really wanted to find one with the 5/8" nut on the transmission end because that would have been perfect, but I couldn't find one anywhere.

I also looked into getting this guy's HM105T adapter, but he wanted some insane amount of money for what is essentially a nut with threads on the inside and outside, so I opted not to go with that. In hindsight, I should have just spent that money or had one machined locally. I didn't have fun replacing my speedo cable, and this would have made that unnecessary.

- You'll note that I mentioned it's a 2 wire mechanical sensor. One wire is the signal to the PCM, the other wire is a ground. The Magnum setup uses an electronic sensor, which has a 3 wire connector to the speed sensor: signal, ground, and power. With my setup I simply don't use the power wire and it works to control OD and lockup perfectly. I think the 2 wire connector is the same one from the OBD1 EVAP or EGR, because I had one in my pile of left over wiring that fit perfectly.

Also note that the later OBD2 setups don't use a speed sensor on the transmission, it's on the differential somewhere (I think - not on the trans, anyway). I think the last year for it on the trans is 1998, so if you do your OBD2 upgrade and use a later PCM and you need a speed sensor for one reason or another, you will have to consider this.

I think that covers everything, and should hopefully give you some options to consider.
I must have missed your message. I have bought and sold a bunch of parts over Facebook Marketplace using their payment system which has a goods and services option, and PayPal without any problems. This guy wanted to use Zelle. I figured since it was a service my bank offered, there wouldn't be any problems. That wasn't the case.
This is excellent information. I saw that sensor come up on a different thread when I was looking for ideas, but they didn't follow up on it and I didn't think it would work going from a hall effect to a VR sensor. But if it has worked for you I'll use it.
It's interesting that you mentioned the backfiring on deceleration. I've done everything I could to make sure my exhaust is sealed up and it continued to sound like it had an exhaust leak. I thought I was going to need resonators or a new set of headers.
 
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No problem, I did my first ever build thread for the cruise upgrade: Rewiring my EFI Magnum - 1970 Dart Swinger

You might find I got a little side tracked and did several upgrades that weren't part of the original plan. If you're short on time most of the cruise control stuff is on page 2. Otherwise give the whole thread a read and let me know if you have any questions.
I read your build and it's great. Again, thanks for posting it. The only question I have for now is where did you get the cruise control buttons?
 
Well, I replaced the MAP sensor and set out to put some miles on the car. On the initial test drive in the neighborhood, it fumbled and backfired a bit then cleared up. It started running better so I decided to go further. My wife and I (because breakdowns are more fun with company) drove it around 100 miles or so yesterday and it seemed to run pretty good. The CEL came on a few times, I assumed for the missing VSS. I'll run the self diagnostic and confirm later.
The only weirdness I noticed is that after filling the gas tank, it started fumbling at low RPM loads during acceleration. My guess is that how I have the EVAP system hooked up is causing it. I'm using the Tanks, Inc. EFI conversion tank with their new fuel lines and a GM returnless filter/pressure regulator. The tank has an external vent/roll over valve positioned above the filler neck.
 
You know, after thinking about it I think there's something wrong with the wiring to the MAP sensor. The DTC chart just has a generic description for a sensor fault for an OBD I code 14, but OBD II has three, two for high/low voltage and one a sensor fault.
I checked voltage at the connector and it had little over 5 volts on the power side, but it also had just under 5 volts on the signal wire. I bet the power and signal wires are making contact somewhere. I'll get into it and see if I can find it.
 
I read your build and it's great. Again, thanks for posting it. The only question I have for now is where did you get the cruise control buttons?

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

I got the buttons from here: Billet Automotive Buttons - Design your own custom billet buttons 12v

I got these ones: 19mm 'CRUISE CONTROL SET' Billet Push Button Switches Car Universal
This OD button: 19mm 'O/D' Billet Push Button Switch Overdrive
And this little CEL: 14mm 'ENGINE LIGHT SYMBOL' LED Pilot Light Small Compact 12V

In hindsight I should have gotten one for the electric fan, but I guess the rocker switch will work for now.
 
Have you measured your fuel pressure at the rail?
Thanks for the link to the buttons.
I haven't checked fuel pressure. I'll get a gauge on it and see what it reads.
I do go through the diagnostic process in the FSM for the MAP and it tested fine. All wiring had proper continuity and voltage. The only thing I can think of was the connector for the MAP was missing the grey rubber seal around the end that goes into the sensor. Without the seal, it fit loose in the connector. Hopefully that's what the intermittent problem was.
 
I was asking about fuel pressure because I know those GM filter / regulators operate pretty high (58 psi?) and the OBD1 Magnum spec is 35 - 45 psi. I don't know if your higher fuel pressure would cause the low RPM stumbling issue, but it's something to consider. Maybe it's pushing fuel past the injectors when the duty cycle is low and causing excess fuel to be dumped into the chamber?

FYI, I'm using a filter / regulator from a 2002 Jeep Cherokee. The spec for that regulator is 52 psi, and my car seems to handle it just fine.
 
I remember seeing that the GM filter/regulator is higher than what a Magnum's fuel pressure is. Your explanation of the fuel being pushed past at low duty cycle makes sense because the exhaust smells rich and economy doesn't seem very good, comparable to the old 318 that was carbed. I know with a 904 LU and 3:73 gears it's not going to be awesome, but it's around 10-12 MPG right now.
It does seem to be running better now that the seal was replaced on the MAP connector. Occasionally it will pop (not sure if out of the intake or exhaust) on hard acceleration. Also, there is a 3-5 second rattle on light acceleration when the engine is cold. It doesn't sound like top end noise, possibly pinging? I'm running 89 octane. Maybe without a VSS it's not advancing the timing? I'll get a video of it soon.
 
When I was running the non-lockup 904 with my 5.9 engine, Hughes cam, kegger intake, stock throttle body, and a 3.23 gear I got a solid 16 mpg. I would think that you should be way better than 10 - 12 with your setup. And of course the rich smell shouldn't happen in the engine is running in open loop.

Try to dial in that fuel pressure closer to spec and let us know if that helps. If you're considering my Jeep regulator solution, note that I'm using the stock 5/16 steel fuel line, Tanks Inc tank, and a Walbro 190 lph pump. Just giving you all the specs because all these details might make a difference.
 
When I was running the non-lockup 904 with my 5.9 engine, Hughes cam, kegger intake, stock throttle body, and a 3.23 gear I got a solid 16 mpg. I would think that you should be way better than 10 - 12 with your setup. And of course the rich smell shouldn't happen in the engine is running in open loop.

Try to dial in that fuel pressure closer to spec and let us know if that helps. If you're considering my Jeep regulator solution, note that I'm using the stock 5/16 steel fuel line, Tanks Inc tank, and a Walbro 190 lph pump. Just giving you all the specs because all these details might make a difference.
Yeah, I figured I should be getting better economy than what it is.
Would you mind posting a pictures of your set up? I'm using whatever pump came with the Tanks Inc kit, I believe a a Walbro and their 3/8" fuel lines. Would an adjustable FPR work? I don't see why it wouldn't.
 
I had some time today to check things out. The distributor cap looked okay when I put the engine in, but I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. I found the plug wire for #7 had been touching the header. It wasn't burned through, but it wouldn't have taken much longer to be burned. The distributor end of the coil wire was burned. Chared pieces came out of the boot when I pulled it off. I cut the end off and replaced it with a new terminal and boot from an MSD kit and it runs much better now. I'm going to test drive it and see what it does. I put a new VSS in, hopefully that fixes the afterfiring that sounds like an exhaust leak.
 
Yesterday's test drive was a success. My car no longer sounds like a Hoggly Stevenson (Harley Davidson) with straight pipes.
There's still a rough transition from idle to part throttle, and occasionally it will lope or surge at idle. I think it's because the cam, intake, and headers are more than what the PCM can deal with.
 
Yeah, I figured I should be getting better economy than what it is.
Would you mind posting a pictures of your set up? I'm using whatever pump came with the Tanks Inc kit, I believe a a Walbro and their 3/8" fuel lines. Would an adjustable FPR work? I don't see why it wouldn't.
Here's a pic of my tank and the fuel lines. I can't remember the brand of hose and fittings I used, maybe Earl's. You can see I got quick connect adapter fittings to with fuel regulator.

The third pic is the filter / regulator mounted above the diff. If you look closely at the regulator you can see I plumbed it into the stock 5/16 line.

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Here's a pic of my tank and the fuel lines. I can't remember the brand of hose and fittings I used, maybe Earl's. You can see I got quick connect adapter fittings to with fuel regulator.

The third pic is the filter / regulator mounted above the diff. If you look closely at the regulator you can see I plumbed it into the stock 5/16 line.

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That looks clean! What fitting did you use to connect the filter to the stock hard line?
 
That looks clean! What fitting did you use to connect the filter to the stock hard line?

Thanks, I really tried to make everything as serviceable as possible - ideally with parts that are on the shelf at the local parts store.

The filter's output is a male quick connect, so I used a female quick connect to -6 AN fitting, like Vibrant Performance # 16886. It found a pic on my phone that shows the plastic piece is blue, so might have actually been Evil Energy brand, like this: Amazon.ca

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Then there's a female -6 AN to 5/16 compression fitting connecting the steel line. Again, probably Evil Energy: Amazon.ca

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Yeah, I figured I should be getting better economy than what it is.
Would you mind posting a pictures of your set up? I'm using whatever pump came with the Tanks Inc kit, I believe a a Walbro and their 3/8" fuel lines. Would an adjustable FPR work? I don't see why it wouldn't.

I was careful to get the smaller pump that supports "only" up to 450 hp. I figured it would be a miracle if I could get a factory Magnum anywhere near 450 hp, so the small pump would be fine. Because with fuel pumps bigger is not better if you don't need it. I've heard a pump that supports way more power than what I have would be working harder for no reason and likely fail a lot sooner.

I think an adjustable regulator would work fine. I didn't use one because I don't run a return line (unless you count the 10 inches from my filter) and I didn't want to put an expensive adjustable regulator under the car near the fuel where it would be abused by dirt and water. I was probably overthinking it, I'm sure it would be fine up near the tank.
 
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