Magnum Kegger Mods

-

805moparkid

Slant and AFX Guy
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
11,498
Reaction score
284
Location
Anthem AZ
well FABO dosn't have one and i have been compiling info of the web and so i thought i would bring it all home!

first off these mods work on all 3.9/5.2/5.9L magnum motors with the kegger intake. i am only in here because only in there to do that then some applies to you.

i dont have the cash for the spanking nice intake from Hughes, the EFI air gap, but what is wrong with the kegger? well other than the plenum volume is way to big, the runners are to long, and the ports are on the small side now much!

my plans are to remove the intake and clean it up, remove the divider wall which as i under stand is a 97 and older deal (after that they decided to remove it to help flow), shorten the ports for my 5.9"(on a 5.2L you go about 1-1.25" shorter), port match the intake to the gaskets, make a turtle and lastly deal with plenum volume. People have used epoxy which is probably the easy way but being cheap and able to weld aluminum i will make my fill panels and weld them in.

EDIT: i guess i should mention if it seems you magnum is using more oil than usual and/or your mpg has gotten worse, random misfire codes etc, crack the TB and look into the bottom of the intake. If you see oil in there then you need to do the gasket.
 
ok so here is my stock 5.9L with a bad plenum gasket! im not going thru step by step on getting the intake off as its pretty straight forward, but i will mention to remove the A/C compressor first, then the Alternator is the best course of action. you dont need to crack the a/c system open, just undo the upper rad hose and move the compressor to lay against the coil area.

ok so here is my kegger off and stripped along with some other pics. hoping today to get the intake cleaned and runner shorted but will see what happens!
 

Attachments

  • 100_5814.jpg
    120.2 KB · Views: 2,163
  • 100_5826.jpg
    119.8 KB · Views: 2,131
  • 100_5822.jpg
    108.9 KB · Views: 1,988
  • 100_5821.jpg
    134.8 KB · Views: 1,829
  • 100_5820.jpg
    114.5 KB · Views: 1,925
  • 100_5818.jpg
    132.9 KB · Views: 1,982
  • 100_5816.jpg
    119.8 KB · Views: 1,885
I have a kegger intake for cheap-bastard MPFI on my 65 273 (mine was $60 w/ injectors & TB). The "sucking in oil" from the lower seal is a common problem. A guy on ebay sells a thick aluminum plate to stop that gasket blow-out problem of the thin sheet-metal plate. There was also a version with a "welded triangle" to decrease the volume and/or redirect the airflow.

The long intake runners are good for mid-range torque. That was the idea of the Mopar Ram-chargers of the early 60's and part of the reason for the slant-six intake. For better high-rpm flow, some people cut the runners short inside the keg. A guy sells plans for that on ebay. Not sure how the large volume inside the kegger helps, other than a place to store contraband.

Finally, for those ready to tell me that the bolt hole angles of my 65 heads are wrong for a kegger. I know that, have a plan, and even posted photos long ago, and no it wouldn't be easier to "just" install a whole Magnum engine and tranny.
 
Little metal squares cut with angles wedge shape for correct alignment?
 
I have a kegger intake for cheap-bastard MPFI on my 65 273 (mine was $60 w/ injectors & TB). The "sucking in oil" from the lower seal is a common problem. A guy on ebay sells a thick aluminum plate to stop that gasket blow-out problem of the thin sheet-metal plate. There was also a version with a "welded triangle" to decrease the volume and/or redirect the airflow.

The long intake runners are good for mid-range torque. That was the idea of the Mopar Ram-chargers of the early 60's and part of the reason for the slant-six intake. For better high-rpm flow, some people cut the runners short inside the keg. A guy sells plans for that on ebay. Not sure how the large volume inside the kegger helps, other than a place to store contraband.

Finally, for those ready to tell me that the bolt hole angles of my 65 heads are wrong for a kegger. I know that, have a plan, and even posted photos long ago, and no it wouldn't be easier to "just" install a whole Magnum engine and tranny.

yes shortening the ports moves the band up a bit but reducing all that plenum up bring it back down. since you brought it up hughes sells a plenum kit

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=27091

and the ramchargers designed the hyper-pack, not the stock one
 
ok well i worked on the intake all afternoon and didnt get as far as i hoped but hey, its my day off.

first thing was to pressure wash the intake to get the big stuff off, i will give it a really good cleaning once im all done and ready for welding.

anyways first job is to remove the dividing wall. now i first tried using a air saw with a white blade (not the super fine blade but next rougher) and didn't have much luck! so i took the aluminum ball bit and used it to thin the edges i wanted to cut, then using the saw it went much faster.

being that im going to fill the upper area of the manifold i was not to worried about removing all the wall, but i did smooth where i thought it would be exposed. i left peices in the roof as they would be covered but if not filling that area in you should remove those and smooth it.

after that i got started on a port, yea i got one port done lol. anyways i layed the center most part of the runner up 1.6" from its current position, and moved the outer most part only 1/4". doing this will open up the mouth of the port and help when i instal the turtle.

so now i just need to finish doing all the ports then i can move to the filling part. i will also be calling a friend about having the TB holes opened to 53mm so when i upgrade later i wont have an issue.
 

Attachments

  • 100_5837.jpg
    160.6 KB · Views: 1,780
  • 100_5836.jpg
    156.4 KB · Views: 1,868
  • 100_5835.jpg
    154.5 KB · Views: 3,696
  • 100_5834.jpg
    167.7 KB · Views: 2,450
  • 100_5833.jpg
    242.1 KB · Views: 1,756
  • 100_5831.jpg
    123.4 KB · Views: 1,764
  • 100_5830.jpg
    116.1 KB · Views: 1,758
  • 100_5828.jpg
    114.9 KB · Views: 1,834
Any dyno curves out there to accommodate these mods?
 
Any dyno curves out there to accommodate these mods?

guys have posted charts with 8-15hp gains and up to 3mpg. guys who only port and shorten the runners tend to lose some power below 2500 and if you do fill work you pick up all the low end power back up. now these numbers are with stock heads and cam, so with better flowing heads or a good tq cam it will pick up all the way thru the band.
 
Nice work,805. Heard about shortening of the runners on these. First time,to actually see it.
 
ok i kinda wanted to have it mostly completed and its there so here are more pics!

Last pic i had was of the interior intake port adjusted. here are the rest.


Ok the first pic is the stock port(right) and the gasket matched port (left) big difference!

Second pic is of the injector "fuel path" on the inside of the port. you can see how i leaned the path away from the injector centerline as well as slightly widened it, stock the fuel actually hits the edges as seen by carbon buildup.

Third Pic is of finished ports and also one of the "volume reducers" welded in. i only had access to a spool welder so thats what i used, and let me say just find a tig or pay someone if you cant tig. it will be much cleaner and alot less work!

4th pic is using the original belly plate as a template for the new 1/8" one, stock is about 18ga.

5th pic everything has been completed and also blasted inside and out, the blasting cleaned everything as well as but a soft texture that smoothed out most everything.

6th pic is where i installed another 1/8" NPT as i plan on using a Phantom II temp gauge. some intakes will have two of the holes drilled and some will only have one, the reason is that earlier motors ran two temp senders, one for the gauge and one for the computer.

last pic is all been washed and will dry over night, then will install the new plate and gasket and left to cure for a couple of days to ensure it has cured!
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2601.jpg
    43.1 KB · Views: 1,817
  • DSCN2595.jpg
    53.5 KB · Views: 2,798
  • DSCN2594.jpg
    64.1 KB · Views: 1,822
  • DSCN2540.jpg
    87 KB · Views: 2,930
  • DSCN2528.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 1,836
  • DSCN2527.jpg
    64.3 KB · Views: 1,898
  • DSCN2602.jpg
    37.9 KB · Views: 1,866
Very nice, now you're making me want to tear into my 5.9 manifold!
 
Very nice, now you're making me want to tear into my 5.9 manifold!

Thanks, i think it will make a big improvement, i would have liked to have more time on it but only worked on it after work. soemthing i would have done differently would be tig everything in, much cleaner. Also i would have tried to fill the area between front and rear runners, on either side of the TB openings.

Nice job!

Thanks Rockerdude!
 
It's hard to tell people that the MoPar crossram is alive and well They don't believe it. lol
 
Great work man. Looks nice.
 
Hmmmm wonder what kind of gains dad's 3.9 would see?

im not exactly sure what the inside looks like but i would imagine you wouldn't do much to the port opening inside if its setup the same as you dont want the rpm range to go to much higher, but in my case thats what filling the plenum area was for, to bring back that lowend lost by shortening the runners. so now i have more all around power and a higher top end rpm
 
Sorry if I missed it...are you putting in a "turtle"?
 
Sorry if I missed it...are you putting in a "turtle"?

I was really on the fence about doing it! I just couldn't do it this time around but I wanted to. if I were going to do it I would put it between the front and rear ports ^ like this, not length wise.
 
-
Back
Top