Magnum swap starts, does not run

-
Had me scratchin' my head there, Ralphie! Thanks
 
I didn't pull or rotate the dizzy, so we should be okay there.
My next step is going to be cleaning out the injectors and fuel rail. It will be a week or so since we're going on vacation, but I'll keep updating this thread.

Thanks again for all the help you guys have provided.
 
Finally cleaned out the injectors today. Got a lot of crud out of them. Looked like rust flakes. Slapped it all back together and there is no change: Crank, fire, chug chug, die.

I think I've finally come to a point where I need to get the computer flashed to remove any security features, emissions and auto trans stuff. B&G quoted me $360 to do this. I suppose I could also try to find a manual trans PCM out of a Dakota or Ram if I can find one cheap.

Ugh.
 
Solo Electronics out of Florida flashed my ECM for $125. I had (have) some problems (not computer related) and had them re-check it. They didn't charge anything.
Tom
 
easyrider said:
Solo Electronics out of Florida flashed my ECM for $125. I had (have) some problems (not computer related) and had them re-check it. They didn't charge anything.
Tom
Click to expand...

Only way to go in my book. I bought a 1998 Dodge Ram 1/2 ton pick-up with 5 speed ECU from them with a lifetime warranty. They removed some functionality to better match my set-up.

Once installed, I reflashed it with an SCT Tuner with a custom performance tune from Sean a.k.a. Hemifever. The difference in performance with his tunes over a stock tune, even on a nearly all-stock motor is jaw dropping. He's a great guy to deal with too.

When I did upgrade my 5.9 to a performance built 408 stroker, he sent me a tune to run it. It's plug & play.
 
easyrider said:
Solo Electronics out of Florida flashed my ECM for $125. I had (have) some problems (not computer related) and had them re-check it. They didn't charge anything.
Tom
Click to expand...


Of all the hacking on the internet, I can't believe these computers have not become "public information." Hell years ago people were hacking the Ford stuff.

Me? I ain't smart enough, and I'm not a programmer LOL
 
67Dart273 said:
Of all the hacking on the internet, I can't believe these computers have not become "public information." Hell years ago people were hacking the Ford stuff.

Me? I ain't smart enough, and I'm not a programmer LOL
Click to expand...

I had no idea it wasn't "public info." I always thought it was a matter of equipment needed to reflash. Shows what I know. And I was an IT professional for 15 yrs! Ha!
 
67Dart273 said:
Of all the hacking on the internet, I can't believe these computers have not become "public information." Hell years ago people were hacking the Ford stuff.

Me? I ain't smart enough, and I'm not a programmer LOL
Click to expand...
It's amazing what they do to them now compared to how they used to be. Apparently they're now running cams most wouldn't want to have in a carbed car with stock PCMs flashed.
 
ValiantOne said:
I had no idea it wasn't "public info." I always thought it was a matter of equipment needed to reflash. Shows what I know. And I was an IT professional for 15 yrs! Ha!
Click to expand...

Guys like you should get busy on this. It's well known (visit the site at "Binder planet" guys over there have been using the GM computers with removable chips to create scratch built DIY EFI systems. But the guys, say, doing Magnum and hemi swaps always seem to end up sending the box "to somebody" and pay to reflash the thing.

Plus, "Ma" Chrysler won't release any data on the things. I guess I can understand why

With my backyard nonsense, I ended up first with a Holley Commander 950, and now, a Holley HP. they ain't cheap
 
While I am waiting on a new PCM, I decided to check something else. Last night I verified that all injectors are receiving a pulse during cranking.

So I have fuel and I have spark during cranking, but something stops working when the engine is supposed to just run. I'm guessing spark because you can still hear the pump running as the engine is stumbling along.

I still need to go through all the wiring.

Here's a video of what it's doing:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvFQtO-0-GU"]Trying to Start the Barracuda 5.2L Magnum Swap - YouTube[/ame]

After this video was shot, it went back to firing, stumbling and dying.
 
I sure wish I "could know" more about these. Without documentation, and or local guys who are "into these" plus I'm getting old enough that I don't have unlimited energy, and certainly not money.

I would love to come up with a diagram you guys could use.

To put this another way where DID you get documentation, and do you have any that can be easily obtained online?

Your engine sound is difficult to diagnose on a video. It almost sounds more like a tuning problem rather than electrical / fuel problem, but you mentioned the injectors were in bad shape, so when you start adding factors.............it could be tough.

You can buy little testers for the injector electrics, "noids" and you might want to rig some sort of spark tester. This can be many things. A very small test gap in series with the coil wire, or even a timing light on the coil wire. If you can find some NE2 neon lamps (wire leads) you can just wrap one lead around the plug / coil wires a few ties to act as 'coupling' and ground the other wire Many ways to test spark.

I would also find a diagram to the CPU/ ECU and do a wire-by wire tally and see if you've missed something that seems important.
 
I would check the fuel injectors for a good spray pattern.
Very common for fuel injectors to not work after setting for long periods. The pintles stick.
Just ran into a similar issue with a hemi that had set for about 2 years and only had 3500 miles on it, it would not start .
I pulled the fuel rail off , injectors attached to it and cranked the engine with the fuel line and injector harness connected , not a single injector was working with proper fuel pressure and noid lights firing ,previously tested.
I used a fuel injector tester which pulses the injector like an ECM , then tapped the pintle end with a screwdriver until they would pulse . Did that with all 8 , re-installed the fuel rail/injectors and it fired right up.
You can take a 9 volt battery and jump the injector and do the same thing, just not with 12 volts , as you can fry the injector.
The computer pulses the injectors , but you should be able to feel and hear a clicking of the fuel injector as it works with the 9 volt battery. Its basically an on/off solenoid.
Just need to make sure your all your injectors are working properly first.
 
blown71duster said:
I would check the fuel injectors ..........
Just ran into a similar issue with a hemi that had set for about 2 years and only had 3500 miles on it, it would not start ..
Click to expand...

Ran into this with a 2.9 Ranger engine. Here, there's a local guy who does injector cleaning. Ran beautifully after cleaning.
 
blown71duster said:
I would check the fuel injectors for a good spray pattern.
Very common for fuel injectors to not work after setting for long periods. The pintles stick.
Just ran into a similar issue with a hemi that had set for about 2 years and only had 3500 miles on it, it would not start .
I pulled the fuel rail off , injectors attached to it and cranked the engine with the fuel line and injector harness connected , not a single injector was working with proper fuel pressure and noid lights firing ,previously tested.
I used a fuel injector tester which pulses the injector like an ECM , then tapped the pintle end with a screwdriver until they would pulse . Did that with all 8 , re-installed the fuel rail/injectors and it fired right up.
You can take a 9 volt battery and jump the injector and do the same thing, just not with 12 volts , as you can fry the injector.
The computer pulses the injectors , but you should be able to feel and hear a clicking of the fuel injector as it works with the 9 volt battery. Its basically an on/off solenoid.
Just need to make sure your all your injectors are working properly first.
Click to expand...

I did this a couple weekends ago and cleaned out a bunch of crap. Same results. All injectors are clean and working now.
 
I wanted to update this thread. I spent the last couple months cleaning up all the wiring and getting it put into place. I did not find anything wrong while going through it. I had my EE friend figure out my crank sensor wiring to be sure on that.

Car still would not start!

I swapped in the manual transmission PCM and boom! It started. It stumbled around a little bit learning some stuff, but then settled into a nice idle. I was able to pull it back into the garage under its own power. (I would have tried going around the block, but I have to align the front end first)

I'm not sure what is different between the two PCMs but that seemed to be the issue in my case.

Thanks again for all the help provided here.
 
Here's a video I put together of the first drive. Throttle is acting funny- kind of a stumble before it revs up. I'll have some time today to poke around a bit on it. Seems like a vacuum leak, but I'll pull codes too.

Not much traction on the snow, unfortunately.

[ame]https://youtu.be/jUb0h1yQPso[/ame]
 
IMO, injectors are still dirty, timing needs to be set with DRB III scan tool and IAC needs to be cleaned and lubed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top