Manifold Vacuum Advance what am I not getting?

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So far, all he's told us is what he "believes", not what he's "verified". I think I asked somewhere in this thread for compression test results. That would help greatly.
Compression numbers on the to do list here. Between spending time in a hospital bed and dealing with 120 shop temps I can’t do much quickly. But at least I am home again. I’ll post the compression numbers as soon as I can but it might be a few days more.
 
Compression numbers on the to do list here. Between spending time in a hospital bed and dealing with 120 shop temps I can’t do much quickly. But at least I am home again. I’ll post the compression numbers as soon as I can but it might be a few days more.
Hope you're better. Now get to work. lol
 
I bet lower, this is one of those so I was told engines.
Could very well be less. In fact I had forgotten that the TRW/Sealed Power catalog said the piston should be .017-.018 positive.

Even at that, with a 68 cc chamber you won't get 12:1.

And that's why every build should be poured and calculated. Way too many books and catalogs are wrong.

The end result is this. Or worse yet when you in a compression limited class and you trust what the piston guy says. And they are off and you have more compression than you thought.

Cost a guy a track championship because he didn't measure. And he was about .5 over the limit.

Obviously he was pissed but the sanctioning body did not care. I think (this was 1989 I think) he measured it and the dish was slightly smaller than what the book said.

You really need to know your compression ratio to get even close on cam timing. Otherwise you are just guessing.

It's no different than not degreeing a cam.
 
The simple fact about MVA is:
- has been around for decades.
- modern engines use it in electronic form. [ After engine is started, timing at idle is increased electronically ]
- people such as Tim [ Newbomb Turk ] do not understand combustion & requirements for such
- if they did, they wouldn't be rubbishing MVA
- all the people who are using MVA all around the world, & have better running engines because of it.....cannot all be wrong.
 
I bet lower, this is one of those so I was told engines.
This was what I wrote in post#1

“The engine is a high compression 12:1 TRW piston and will assume its roughly 12:1 not assuming anything about the deck or gasket height etc.”

I know only that the pistons are TRW and say 12:1 right on them and they are not cut. I know this because I saw them by bore scope.

I did not assume anything else and thats all I am able to go by. If its actually 11:1 thats great news it makes my life that much easier! I hope Tim is correct!
 
This was what I wrote in post#1

“The engine is a high compression 12:1 TRW piston and will assume its roughly 12:1 not assuming anything about the deck or gasket height etc.”

I know only that the pistons are TRW and say 12:1 right on them and they are not cut. I know this because I saw them by bore scope.

I did not assume anything else and thats all I am able to go by. If its actually 11:1 thats great news it makes my life that much easier! I hope Tim is correct!
We can give you a great idea what it is when you give us the results from a compression test. Do you have any idea what the camshaft is?
 
Oh and one thing I've noticed while messin around with mine is worth sharing. These vacuum caps that these parts stores sell now don't last ANY time before they crack, split and LEAK, so keep an eye out for that! I don't know where a good source for vacuum caps is. What a stupid problem to have!
Get silicone caps and plugs for powder coating masking. Made to take high heat.
 
Right. You end up with an inverted curve.

I just thought of the most simple fix that will work.

Get yourself a Progression distributor and use that.

IIRC, you can put any digital curve in it you want.

That’s what I would do in your case. You can change the tune up with your phone.
Yeah, replace a perfectly reliable analog system with a digital system controlled by your phone. In a street car. Yep, that is exactly what I would not do. :thumbsup:
 
This is the EXACT scenario I always bring up. Nowhere near enough compression and a monster cam.
I recently went through this, 20* advance in a 400, wanted more. Less than 10 inches of vacuum. Sounded wicked, ran terrible. Wouldn't fall out of a tree if you pushed it. I didn't know what exactly was wrong (cam/compression mismatch or slap worn out) but it was all used so I just pulled it out and started over.
 
Ah, the new Green Bearing thread...I ain't reading three pages of this, so maybe someone has already posted this, but....

You cannot adjust the amount of advance in the can. Only the "when" you get the advance. I've told you multiple times now. This is combo dependent. ******* TRY IT AND SEE.

Ah, but you can.
Pull the advance canister, the number stamped on the arm is the advance. Either add material to the notch (weld or JB weld) or file the notch to limit or extend the pull length of the canister, if you don't feel like swapping canisters and stocking a hundred canisters for tuning.

As far as the rest of it, enjoy yourselves.
 
The simple fact about MVA is:
- has been around for decades.
- modern engines use it in electronic form. [ After engine is started, timing at idle is increased electronically ]
- people such as Tim [ Newbomb Turk ] do not understand combustion & requirements for such
- if they did, they wouldn't be rubbishing MVA
- all the people who are using MVA all around the world, & have better running engines because of it.....cannot all be wrong.


Really? How many books tell people how to time power valve opening WRONG?

Damn near every one,

I understand combustion well enough.

If you would shut your mouth and pay attention, I never said MVA doesn’t have a place.

I’m saying if everything you build needs it your philosophy is *** backwards.

I’d remind you of your misreading of combustion pressure on piston area. You did what you always do and refer to books and articles you read incorrectly.

And you defending that to the very end.

Same thing here Geoff.

I’m not saying the OP may need MVA. If it does it won’t be because it’s the optimal way to get to the end result.

For the exact same reason you need more timing at a cruise than you do at the same throttle opening and load.

The more timing you need to add at a cruise, the less efficient the engine is, for whatever reason. It’s the exact same thing at idle.

The more efficient the engine is, the less initial timing it will need.

And what are the two biggest factors in low speed (I’m saying from the start of peak torque and down) efficiency?

Compression ratio.
Valve timing.

Too little of the former or too much of the latter (or both) makes the engine less efficient.

And that takes more timing to make the same power. Until you calculate in pumping losses.

We could talk about how compression ratio affects different parts of all the cycles but this is a long post already.
 
Less complexity is more better. If you care, go ahead and figure out if I think points are more or less complex than a Mopar ECU system.

But you do you.


And yet everyone worried about electronics failing in something like an electronic ignition have cars in the driveway that have possibly hundreds of electrical failure points.
 
And yet everyone worried about electronics failing in something like an electronic ignition have cars in the driveway that have possibly hundreds of electrical failure points.
Anything produced by a vehicle manufacturer is tested far beyond what aftermarket parts are, and most have years of heritage to rely on.

I'm not worried at all about electronics - it's the unnecessary change to reprogrammable digital systems that I don't follow. Hell, my washer/dryer has a cell phone interface on it. None of that stuff is needed and is nothing but just another failure point, whether it fails electronically, whether it uses buggy programming, or whether the user messes it up and declares it's junk.
 
Ah, the new Green Bearing thread...I ain't reading three pages of this, so maybe someone has already posted this, but....



Ah, but you can.
Pull the advance canister, the number stamped on the arm is the advance. Either add material to the notch (weld or JB weld) or file the notch to limit or extend the pull length of the canister, if you don't feel like swapping canisters and stocking a hundred canisters for tuning.

As far as the rest of it, enjoy yourselves.
Well yeah, but I'm talking about AS IS. I was tryin to keep it simple as possible and then you came along. LOL
 
Anything produced by a vehicle manufacturer is tested far beyond what aftermarket parts are, and most have years of heritage to rely on.

I'm not worried at all about electronics - it's the unnecessary change to reprogrammable digital systems that I don't follow. Hell, my washer/dryer has a cell phone interface on it. None of that stuff is needed and is nothing but just another failure point, whether it fails electronically, whether it uses buggy programming, or whether the user messes it up and declares it's junk.
Yeah and when the "unnecessary" stuff fails, it always affects the necessary. Every single time.
 
Yeah and when the "unnecessary" stuff fails, it always affects the necessary. Every single time.


So no one understands that getting the correct curve for something like the OP’s situation is far easier if you can do it digitally.

Especially if you don’t have a dyno and a distributor machine.

I guess not fixing a shitty running engine is a worse option than using a programmable ignition.

Or trying to use MVA to fix it. It’s far easier to do it digitally than working with mechanical advance parts.

I’m looking into a programmable MSA 7 (although I’m not a fan of MSD on many levels there aren’t many choices) because I’m getting near the other end of a mechanical tuneup.

Can I make what I have work? Probably. Will I have to modify the crap out of all of it? Probably.

If I can change the timing curve digitally it will take far less time.

Plus, that ignition offers individual cylinder timing. That looks like a rabbit hole I’d fall down.

To me, for what the OP is doing some type of digital advance curve would be easier than doing it mechanically.

If not, he can hook it to MVA and then do the curve mechanically.
 
Yes,
Turk by definition an IC is a very inefficient device. You cannot overcome that obstacle, only work with it.
Learn to read. I said MVA is one method of giving extra timing [ post #24 ].

So all those racers that lock their dists, have done for decades, they are all wrong too??????

Oh, now I get it.........they should have built The Turk Special: an engine that had 12.3:1 CR, a cam with 255* @ 050 duration, tight 107 LSA, tunnel ram with dual 800 carbs. So folks this engine is the fix so that you do not need a lot of idle timing!!! [ Wait for a sale on 800 carbs.]

Newsflash for Turk! That engine will want a lot of idle timing & if you understood the combustion process involved, you would understand why.....
 
Yes,
Turk by definition an IC is a very inefficient device. You cannot overcome that obstacle, only work with it.
Learn to read. I said MVA is one method of giving extra timing [ post #24 ].

So all those racers that lock their dists, have done for decades, they are all wrong too??????

Oh, now I get it.........they should have built The Turk Special: an engine that had 12.3:1 CR, a cam with 255* @ 050 duration, tight 107 LSA, tunnel ram with dual 800 carbs. So folks this engine is the fix so that you do not need a lot of idle timing!!! [ Wait for a sale on 800 carbs.]

Newsflash for Turk! That engine will want a lot of idle timing & if you understood the combustion process involved, you would understand why.....
IMG_0993.jpeg
 
Is that the best you can do turk? A red X that A five year old can do?
 
All this bickering is makin you both look like three year old turds. Cut it out. It's not helping the OP at all. We all already know how little both your dicks are. You wouldn't be arguing otherwise.
 
All this bickering is makin you both look like three year old turds. Cut it out. It's not helping the OP at all. We all already know how little both your dicks are. You wouldn't be arguing otherwise.


Not at all RRR. I will continue to expose the stupidity of building engines that need timing curves like that.

The OP and everyone else deserve to know it isn’t the correct way to do it, even though it’s done so much now it’s the de facto build philosophy.

I just get tired of trying to even discuss anything with the guy. It’s impossible for him to consider that just because someone wrote a book and said “do this” doesn’t make it right.

And for the record, I said what I would do. And I said I would use MVA or a programmable ignition.

And yet he still argues because I say it’s wrong to do a build like that.

I stand by that. It’s the wrong way to build an engine.

It’s no different than telling people to buy once and cry once over their cooling system. If you don’t show math equations you aren’t smart enough to say anything.

Tesla had the perfect quote for that.
 
Since this thread is somewhat de-railed here's another example for MVA vs PVA...Maybe helps us understand the concepts?

340 @ 9.3 SCR (175psi cranking pressure) and XE262 cam running an OEM TQ.
Idle speed 825 with mixture screws 3 turns out 12.5 AFR
TCI 2600-2800 converter.
Engine seems to like 25* BTDC with a little effort cranking.

System set at 8* base plus 17* MVA plus 24* mechanical (starting at 1500 RPM).

What are the pros and cons of this set up as it relates to the MVA vs PVA? As with @340inabbody I'm trying to understand the concept.
 
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