massive reconfiguration time again.

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rumblefish360 said:
Yea, to cold is a problem.

Wood burning pot belly stove time.
A small cam behind it is amazing by the way.
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well this is where I run into the Dilemma because the garage isn't all that cold whatsoever until I open the door! It does say to use in a well-ventilated area. but now that you say something quite possibly as I do the roof ahead of time I can put my small electric space heater inside the car and get it warm from the inside out?
 
What are you using to clean the metal after stripping ? are you using a 2 part sealer to protect bare metal from moisture.
 
fishmens67 said:
What are you using to clean the metal after stripping ? are you using a 2 part sealer to protect bare metal from moisture.
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Of course I started with the two front fenders about three years ago? I sanded them with 100 Grit to get the paint off and then sanded the metal with 220 on a Harbor Freight Disc Sander. That's what I did today also. Then I finish up with some 400 wet and dry going from front to back in One Direction. Then I just use some rattle can clear. remember my car stays inside a warm or fairly warm garage all winter and just sunny days in the summer and never in the rain. I usually clean in between with mineral spirits. In the last year I've done the doors the trunk lid in the hood with the hole in it. 1 Fender is showing some very find surface rust in one little area which I might wet and dry over again and respray.
 
Question for the masses here...
In my last rear end before I blew up the eight and three-quarter I had 355 gears. I have four tens in my Dana now and the gear change didn't make any difference at the track. Now I would like to put 355 back in the dana. And we can definitely cross off anything real expensive. My cheap *** ain't paying a bunch of money for something that I'm not going to put to the test. The Dana itself and the gears are just so much bigger than an 8 3/4 I can't imagine problems. I feel confident that through what I've read I should be able to put 355 on the current setup that has 410's? More to the question of changing them out? I'm at my end of having someone else do it for what they charge. Of course I'm not afraid to set them up for a first time but worried that I wouldn't have the correct tools as far as getting the pinion set correctly? Of course I would try to put the ring gear in as it came out and use that as a starting point to shim left or right. But again I'm unfamiliar with what it will take to get the pinion in correctly and do adjusting on that or not? Even more specifically would I need a high-powered air tool? Thank you for anybody who has something on this.
Hopefully today I'll get back on the roof and removing paint it seems a little warmer out today or it should be...
 
Setting up a ring and pinion requires special depth gauges/tools and experience . does your machine shop set up gears?
maybe you can find someone who has the tools and know how to help you for a small fee.
I setup a chevy 12 bolt once, used the blue marking compound and everything looked good, but it wasn't. it whined and growled and ground. needless to say, my friend was out a new set of gears from our learning experience.
I never tried it again. it is worth the 100 at the machine shop.
 
fishmens67 said:
Setting up a ring and pinion requires special depth gauges/tools and experience . does your machine shop set up gears?
maybe you can find someone who has the tools and know how to help you for a small fee.
I setup a chevy 12 bolt once, used the blue marking compound and everything looked good, but it wasn't. it whined and growled and ground. needless to say, my friend was out a new set of gears from our learning experience.
I never tried it again. it is worth the 100 at the machine shop.
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My machine shop mostly does motor stuff and haven't asked them. I take all my stuff to a differential place that specializes in it and they charge about 175 if I just bring it in and hand it to them. I had that option when I first put it together and I had them set up the four tens with the new spool. I really wasn't looking to take the whole rear end out but I guess if I left it on the Springs it wouldn't be so bad I'd have to take all that stuff off anyways.
 
Are you talking new or used gears?
If used find out what the shims under the inner pinion bearing is and start with that thickness.
As for the carrier bearings take the old ones off and hone them out so they slide on an off and use them for setup. Then after you get everything to spec, pull it apart and press on the new bearing and recheck that everything is in spec.
If new gears see if there is a number scribed on the end of the pinion. If so that number is the distance from the back of the pinion to the center of the carrier. If that is the case, hone out a used inner pinion bearing for setup. Use a pushrod across the carrier saddles as the centerline of the carrier to measure the pinion setting.
Personally I would not run 3.54s on a spool unless I wanted to break stuff.
 
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Jadaharabi said:
Are you talking new or used gears?
If used find out what the shims under the inner pinion bearing is and start with that thickness.
As for the carrier bearings take the old ones off and hone them out so they slide on an off and use them for setup. Then after you get everything to spec, pull it apart and press on the new bearing and recheck that everything is in spec.
If new gears see if there is a number scribed on the end of the pinion. If so that number is the distance from the back of the pinion to the center of the carrier. If that is the case, hone out a used inner pinion bearing for setup. Use a pushrod across the carrier saddles as the centerline of the carrier to measure the pinion setting.
Personally I would not run 3.54s on a spool unless I wanted to break stuff.
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Likely I would buy all new gears. that's what I have in there now from Dr diff. Also I'm wondering what could break?
 
Man I feel for you, a local rear end shop only charges $100 to set one up.
 
sireland67 said:
Man I feel for you, a local rear end shop only charges $100 to set one up.
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.
Have not found anyone around here that will set them up $100. Greedy son of a guns want $250.00 plus cost of parts.

This is an interesting vidio.

 
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I've done a few (3 actually) and feel like I just got lucky each time......

The last one I paied my buddy 200 bucks to do.
 
Cope said:
I've done a few (3 actually) and feel like I just got lucky each time......

The last one I paied my buddy 200 bucks to do.
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It's the story of this car! Oh boy I get some new gears for $200 !!
What! They cost $200 to put them in?! Dammit!
REALITY $400 and three days of messing around. One to get the rear end out, another to take it have it done, and other to get it all back in LOL
 
Forgot the new oil for breaking in and the post break in change as well. Around where I'm at you have a 500 mile break in procedure as well.
 
Stephen Hotz said:
Forgot the new oil for breaking in and the post break in change as well. Around where I'm at you have a 500 mile break in procedure as well.
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What!? Break in oil!? Crap!!! I need to change the oil anyways I guess...
They were the 410 gears that the rear end came with I just put them on a spool..
 
Shoot, I guess I'm changing my rear diff oill.

I'm just about 500 miles on a new ring and pinion....

If fast cars were cheep or easy everyone would drive one.....

:steering:
 
j par said:
Oh and let's not forget bleeding the lines again! LOL
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What is nice on changing the gears in a 8.75, if you leave the brake lines long, you can slide the axles out enough to drop the center section, and then slide them back in, no bleeding required.

D60 yup, gotta bleed them.
Push the brake petal instead of pumping, it will bleed out faster.
Crack a bleeder, slowly shove the pedal to the floor, tighten the bleeder.
Way faster.
 
sireland67 said:
What is nice on changing the gears in a 8.75, if you leave the brake lines long, you can slide the axles out enough to drop the center section, and then slide them back in, no bleeding required.

D60 yup, gotta bleed them.
Push the brake petal instead of pumping, it will bleed out faster.
Crack a bleeder, slowly shove the pedal to the floor, tighten the bleeder.
Way faster.
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Thank you.
 
Okay I talked to the differential guy today that sets my stuff up. He said if I bring it in with the axles out and the cover off he'll do it again for 175. I told him about my different choices from Dr diff and of course he recommended the Spicer gears which are another hundred dollars! LOL which means if I purchase them from Dr diff they would be likely$285 plus shipping. I asked him how much he could get the gears for and he said he had a set for 125 Spicer. then he retracted that real quick and said I use those a lot for setting up other differentials and I should not sell them. He's a really nice guy and thinks first to help people and doesn't think of himself. I said well even if you had to order some what could you do for me and he said the splicers for 150... I said sold! I'm on my way over there tomorrow morning to give him at least the 150 for the gears and give me a couple weeks to bring the rear end in to have it done. I'll go tomorrow and get the one gallon vat of carburetor cleaner from my friend is going to let me borrow it. It's brand new and unopened so it should clean the carburetor up pretty quick. I'll get a rebuild kit for it and get it on the car so I can pull it out of the garage turn it around so the back is sticking out and I can get this rear end out.. tis the season...
 
Went down to the differential shop and he wouldn't take my money, but said he'd hold the gears for me till I was ready and put a date down on the 1st of April for me to bring them in...
 
Sounds like a good guy to deal with. That's how I run my small business as well. Mine you, after a few years in business , you get pretty good at reading people...and ask for a deposit from the select few. Good to see your plans are moving along!
 
Okay another part of my reconfiguration reconfigured LOL I got that Carter performance carburetor off the back and have the matching 1406 Edelbrock rebuilt and in its place. Now LOL I almost want to rebuild the front one as the back one looks so good. the plan hopefully weather permitting today is to put the tunnel ram carbs back on and get her started for the first time since I can't remember. Maybe early December? Anyways I can drive it out get it warmed up and turn it around and put it in the garage with the back end facing out so I can get this rear-end out and get it down to have the gears changed. I still have the front window all taped up so there's going to be no test drive LOL
 
j par said:
Okay another part of my reconfiguration reconfigured LOL I got that Carter performance carburetor off the back and have the matching 1406 Edelbrock rebuilt and in its place. Now LOL I almost want to rebuild the front one as the back one looks so good. the plan hopefully weather permitting today is to put the tunnel ram carbs back on and get her started for the first time since I can't remember. Maybe early December? Anyways I can drive it out get it warmed up and turn it around and put it in the garage with the back end facing out so I can get this rear-end out and get it down to have the gears changed. I still have the front window all taped up so there's going to be no test drive LOL
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What kinda time frame to get the rear gears done?
 
dartfreak75 said:
What kinda time frame to get the rear gears done?
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Hopefully get the car turned around today and maybe work on stripping paint today and tomorrow. Hopefully Monday start getting the rear end out for the tentative appointment the following Monday to bring it into the rear-end guy to have the gears changed..
 
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