Masters of Motors (MOM) the new EngineMasters Challenge (EMC)

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This is just the guy in the corner with the dunce cap on.........

But, is a high temp coatings on top of the piston, any help.
Friction coatings
Gas port for sure
Would cryo help. I know it makes the piston stronger. But would it change the piston expansion as in a tighter fitting piston?
Wet sump?
Dry sump?
Oil devertes to make the oil in the cam valley only allowed to leave in the front and rear of the block.
What about tubes that directed the oil around the crank to the pan, from the cam valley.
Crank scraper...............
 
I love these ideas! Now if I only had disposable money like the US government that just throws money at a problem! LMAO!

Hey Ramm, does Eagle have a crank with that slick finish available for this and legal for use?
 
rumblefish360 said:
I love these ideas! Now if I only had disposable money like the US government that just throws money at a problem! LMAO!

Hey Ramm, does Eagle have a crank with that slick finish available for this and legal for use?
Click to expand...

Eagle cranks have a huge hole in the rod throw that will not tolerate a Honda Rod Journal diameter. So no beuno. Good suggestion though. I love that surface treatment. J.Rob
 
Cudafever said:
This is just the guy in the corner with the dunce cap on.........


But, is a high temp coatings on top of the piston, any help.
Friction coatings
Gas port for sure
Would cryo help. I know it makes the piston stronger. But would it change the piston expansion as in a tighter fitting piston?
Wet sump?
Dry sump?
Oil devertes to make the oil in the cam valley only allowed to leave in the front and rear of the block.
What about tubes that directed the oil around the crank to the pan, from the cam valley.
Crank scraper...............
Click to expand...

Piston coatings are fine and dandy but I anticipate lots of piston mods. J.Rob
 
@Cudafever - I don’t know about side coatings after purchase, but the crown can be done after all the mods are made and done easy enough. I suppose you could ether do it yourself or have it done by a piston company or coating service.

Also the head chamber and valves can also be coated.
IDK about the intake ports of the intake manifold and cylinder head and if it is worthwhile or if it has shown in the past to make power.

Interesting thought.

@RAMM - Would Eagle do it if asked?
 
rumblefish360 said:
@Cudafever - I don’t know about side coatings after purchase, but the crown can be done after all the mods are made and done easy enough. I suppose you could ether do it yourself or have it done by a piston company or coating service.

Also the head chamber and valves can also be coated.
IDK about the intake ports of the intake manifold and cylinder head and if it is worthwhile or if it has shown in the past to make power.

Interesting thought.

@RAMM - Would Eagle do it if asked?
Click to expand...

No Eagle will not do it--they can't-I'm sure they come from China with the hole, I inquired about this in 2010 and this is what I was told.

The crown can be done after all is said and done but shipping back and forth if it becomes time sensitive will not work. I will probably have to order a second set @ 4.100" with all of the features I need. Yes horizontal gas porting will be utilized as well as a 1mm/1mm/2mm ring pack. For the same reasons I just stated above the chambers and valves will not be coated. I'm trying to keep everything as in house as possible. I am intrigued by coatings as well. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
No Eagle will not do it--they can't-I'm sure they come from China with the hole, I inquired about this in 2010 and this is what I was told.

The crown can be done after all is said and done but shipping back and forth if it becomes time sensitive will not work. I will probably have to order a second set @ 4.100" with all of the features I need. Yes horizontal gas porting will be utilized as well as a 1mm/1mm/2mm ring pack. For the same reasons I just stated above the chambers and valves will not be coated. I'm trying to keep everything as in house as possible. I am intrigued by coatings as well. J.Rob
Click to expand...

You may want to consider the Line 2 Line skirt coating. You only have to do it once. Does wonders for ring seal. My next set will get it.
 
RAMM said:
I won't try it for this and do you have data to support your claim? J.Rob
Click to expand...


There is a ton of data out there. Im talking about the abradable coating. It actually allows the piston to go into the bore with almost zero clearance. Then the coating wears off, leaving the running clearance at temp to effectively be zero or close to it.

The tighter the piston to bore (without sticking of course) the better the rings seal, and last. The more the piston rocks, the more the angle of the ring face to the cylinder wall.

I know of two engines that went together with it and measure ring seal, under load was significantly less than it was without it. I forget the blow by numbers but I think it was a reduction in 2 or 3 numbers on the blow by meter. And that was on a pretty well sorted out 900ish BBC.

Line 2 Line also Hs a bunch of other coating as well, but for you time limits and why you want to do, I agree you don’t have time for all that. The abradable coating goes on and won’t come off so it’s a one time deal.

Are you going to use a crank scraper?
 
OK I'll read the rules but can I fight the Corrona Virus and hallucinate a little first?
Can we cut off the rocker stands and use blocks?
NO I'd still get together with B3 even with iron rockers since you have more than stock lift
and especially if roller tip rockers
Long Valves? HOllow stems - good choice No long valves think of a lash cap 1/2 the increase in lift
Krooser and I just through this drill on the W2 hills ending up with 1.95 installed and most likely PAC beehinves
Now with the tip getting closer to the shaft ..
If they allow blocks how about using a longer arm and backset Crower style
Instead of offset drilling the shafts how about mounting the shafts behind the bolt in the stock location and another bolt through the cap and shaft and block
Longer arm would allow a longer arm on the pushrod side too- but wait- we are going to move it closer to the shaft to get some more ratio
2:1 should be easy Then line up the pushrod and drill the adjuster thread in line with the pushrod at half lift.
I lke yr's thoughts on pushrods

We all the rocker is an arc, ratio changes with angle away from perpendicular to the valve stem- but most camgrinders treat it as linear- the longer arm decreases the ark making it closer to linear.
IDK about comps catalog of Mopar grinds
but
YOu could get the Controlled induction program and let it give you a profile to be ground on most anyones cnc grinder
would be a good check on even the best cam picker
what fun
 
Wyrmrider most of your questions and suggestions are answered in the rules.
 
What parts do you still need off your list?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Wyrmrider most of your questions and suggestions are answered in the rules.
Click to expand...

This is true! Please read the rules and I already told you NO machining of the pedestals is allowed and I have no plans to use a heavy *** iron rocker--they will be Hughes .350" offset intakes and 0" offset exhaust in a 1.5 or 1.6 ratio--the ratio or ratio split is my only unanswered question regarding rockers. J.Rob
 
I'm headed to the shop this morning to receive a 340 build from a fellow FABO member! Which is supercool because he is travelling a substantial distance in one day. I will take some pictures and upload them here because as they say THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
I need a OEM steel crankshaft and all three sets of cylinder heads--X/J/'308 and YES I will pay $$$ for them. J.Rob
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i have a set of 1968 x heads untouched and many sets of j's and maybe a steel crank i will check today since the snow is down and i can get to my other stash of parts .
 
Shipping across the boarder prices and taxes are at a level you would think our country’s didn’t like each other.
I have 308’s and a 3.31 forged crank sitting at IIRC, 10/10.
Ontario is pretty far as well, at least from where I am sitting in southern New York.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
i have a set of 1968 x heads untouched and many sets of j's and maybe a steel crank i will check today since the snow is down and i can get to my other stash of parts .
Click to expand...

You're awesome Lobsterman! Let me know how much $$$ I will send it right away. Thanks ! J.Rob
 
rumblefish360 said:
Shipping across the boarder prices and taxes are at a level you would think our country’s didn’t like each other.
I have 308’s and a 3.31 forged crank sitting at IIRC, 10/10.
Ontario is pretty far as well, at least from where I am sitting in southern New York.
Click to expand...

I will gladly pay you a fair price for those '308's if shipping is available Rob. Thankyou for the offer, J.Rob
 
They are bare and you can have them for a song and a tap dance. LMAO. Condition unknown otherwise. Sitting a decade. I’d say keep searching while you PM me your email and I’ll send pictures. This way you can see before you do anything. If you don’t like’em, that’s fine. I just don’t want you to spend money on a set of turds I never really looked at.
 
i think the 308's with an offset rocker and the pinch addressed they will blow the x and j's away . this will be very interesting .
 
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