McCleod hydraulic throw out bearing adjust

[clementine]

Well hello FABO,

Took out the 67 383 A833 for test drive and notice a little slip under 3/4 throttle. Checked TO bearing back at shop and it has no front to back play.

These hydraulic TO bearings are not designed for continuous use (emailed brewers) to verify there should be play)

Although initial setup was followed, i am going to put a little play into it, but cannot remember which way it should turn to give it play.

My gut says clockwise toward the back.

So, unhook lines and turn clockwise when looking at it from front to back.

Any experience with this out there?

Thank you.

I would attach an actual pic of TO bearing but im having phone troubles so Andre is picking up the slack

 

[MV8]

I'm familiar with Mcleod, not Mcloud. Mcleod uses shims or a special piston to setup the 0.100-.240" of clearance but the bearing is in contact all the time (no spring to pull it back). The clearance is so the clutch can wear, the pressure plate fingers can move away from the clutch, and the hydraulic release bearing will move back to allow it. This is typical of aftermarket and oem hydraulic release bearings.

 

[72bluNblu]

This type of bearing?

McLeod has instructions online and a video of how to do the adjustment. This type of bearing needs clearance. It is important to note that there are MANY type of OEM hydraulic TO bearings that ride on the clutch fingers just like an old school TO bearing though, so not all hydraulic TO bearings require clearance.



https://www.mcleodracing.com/1400-series-bearing/p105#fp_tab7

 

[clementine]

This type of bearing?

Yup!!

I think my plan is to try it in the car.

Unhook lines, and spin in, essential gaining clearance.

 

[MV8]

A 1400 has a threaded adjustment. A 1300 uses shims or a special piston. The clearance is taken up by the hydraulics when bled and there is no return spring to pull it back. Hydraulics self-adjust for wear. That is the point of having the clearance.

 

[72bluNblu]

A 1400 has a threaded adjustment. A 1300 uses shims or a special piston. The clearance is taken up by the hydraulics when bled and there is no return spring to pull it back. Hydraulics self-adjust for wear. That is the point of having the clearance.

Again, there are literally MILLIONS of oe hydraulic TO’s that do not require clearance, and in fact will not work if they’re set with an air gap.

 

[clementine]

Well, I will keep trying Brewers.
This is the gist of our email exchange.....

"My question is I have driven it around the block and checked the throwout bearing to see if those small clearances made on setup were still there. The throwout bearing has no back and forth movement......should it?"

response....
"If it has no movement, then it’s touching the clutch all the time and will quickly burn up the bearing. It’s not designed for continuous use."

Now to be accurate, I did not say which TO bearing I purchased (4 years ago....ugh) so it is possible he and I are not talking about the same bearing. AND I consider this guy to be totally pro so don't go throwing no shade .......as it will reflect poorly on me. OK?

So, I will try to update this thread with my findings.

I appreciate you guys for responding. These conversations ultimately lead me down the path of success.

BUT.....I am still not sure how this thing "self adjusts" but Ill research.

 

[MV8]

This type of bearing?

View attachment 1716277403

McLeod has instructions online and a video of how to do the adjustment. This type of bearing needs clearance. It is important to note that there are MANY type of OEM hydraulic TO bearings that ride on the clutch fingers just like an old school TO bearing though, so not all hydraulic TO bearings require clearance.



https://www.mcleodracing.com/1400-series-bearing/p105#fp_tab7

Again, there are literally MILLIONS of oe hydraulic TO’s that do not require clearance, and in fact will not work if they’re set with an air gap.

They do have clearance. There is a spring inside the green boot. There is a stop built in to keep them from over extending. When replacing (and adapting to other applications), care must be used to ensure they are preloaded enough that a full stroke of the pedal does not over extend them and break the stop. Doesn't sound like you've ever replaced one

 

[MV8]

Well, I will keep trying Brewers.
This is the gist of our email exchange.....

"My question is I have driven it around the block and checked the throwout bearing to see if those small clearances made on setup were still there. The throwout bearing has no back and forth movement......should it?"

response....
"If it has no movement, then it’s touching the clutch all the time and will quickly burn up the bearing. It’s not designed for continuous use."

Now to be accurate, I did not say which TO bearing I purchased (4 years ago....ugh) so it is possible he and I are not talking about the same bearing. AND I consider this guy to be totally pro so don't go throwing no shade .......as it will reflect poorly on me. OK?

So, I will try to update this thread with my findings.

I appreciate you guys for responding. These conversations ultimately lead me down the path of success.

BUT.....I am still not sure how this thing "self adjusts" but Ill research.

You should ask Mcleod about Mcleod products or read the instructions on the site. There are bearings made for constant contact and ones made to have clearance. The linkage is another matter. You should be able to push the bearing away from the fingers.

 

[clementine]

You should ask Mcleod about Mcleod products or read the instructions on the site. There are bearings made for constant contact and ones made to have clearance. The linkage is another matter. You should be able to push the bearing away from the fingers.

I will do this.

 

[clementine]

Doesn't sound like you've ever replaced one

C'mon man. You have good info. 72 has good info. You guys seem to respond to my threads. I'm just a guy. I appreciate you. 72 has done me some real solids with good intel. Lets keep it clean.

 

[72bluNblu]

They do have clearance. There is a spring inside the green boot. There is a stop built in to keep them from over extending. When replacing (and adapting to other applications), care must be used to ensure they are preloaded enough that a full stroke of the pedal does not over extend them and break the stop. Doesn't sound like you've ever replaced one

The problem is you're mixing your terminology. You're using the word "clearance" interchangeably with an air gap and with preload.

The OE style bearings do not require an air gap, therefore, they do not have clearance to the clutch fingers. The TO rides constantly on the clutch. They do need to have the amount of preload set appropriately, as described in the video I linked earlier.

I currently run an OE style hydraulic TO on the T56 in my Duster, so your assumptions about my experience are also incorrect. No need to make this personal, we're talking about the same thing.

You should ask Mcleod about Mcleod products or read the instructions on the site. There are bearings made for constant contact and ones made to have clearance. The linkage is another matter. You should be able to push the bearing away from the fingers.

See, now you're using "clearance" to mean an air gap again.

Most aftermarket hydraulic TO's have an air gap, like the McLeod that clementine has. He needs to set the clearance on that air gap.

Many OE hydraulic TO's have a spring, like the one in my T56. They need to have their PRELOAD set appropriately. Both styles often require shimming to set their depth properly.

 

[MV8]

Close enough. We're good.

 

[72bluNblu]

Close enough. We're good.

Sorry but no. Using clearance when you mean preload is not "close enough", it's literally two opposite things.

For the McLeod aftermarket TO you need clearance

For the OE hydraulic TO's with a spring, you need preload. Which still has a tolerance, but not clearance.

 

[clementine]

Ok. A call to McLeod.

If I can pry the face of the TO bearing back off of the fingers (compress it) and get a 0.125-0.200 ish space Im good. If not, I need to pull trans and repeat measurements.

Imma gonna say the face of the bearing rides against the fingers of the diaphram clutch after it fills with fluid and is in use.

Thanks for the help fellas.

 

[MV8]

"Close enough" as in I'm only here to help the original poster, not correct you.

 

[Muswagon]

I set my hydramax with .150 air gap. That gap disappears after the first throw, and it rides on the clutch constantly while leaving room for wear, which would increase preload over time.

The Ram bearing is the same, constant contact bearing.

You have a Mcleod? The original post is edited so not seeing what you actually have.

If it is Mcleod, its the 1406-10. The problem is Mcleod instructions uses the term "clearance" instead of "Air Gap" which I think is the source of confusion.

the 1400 series Mcleod are constant contact as well, I don't want to debate Brewers... perhaps you don't have a McLeod?

 

[clementine]

I set my hydramax with .150 air gap. That gap disappears after the first throw, and it rides on the clutch constantly while leaving room for wear, which would increase preload over time.

The Ram bearing is the same, constant contact bearing.

You have a Mcleod? The original post is edited so not seeing what you actually have.

If it is Mcleod, its the 1406-10. The problem is Mcleod instructions uses the term "clearance" instead of "Air Gap" which I think is the source of confusion.

the 1400 series Mcleod are constant contact as well, I don't want to debate Brewers... perhaps you don't have a McLeod?

I edited the title to spell correctly.

I have a McLeod. I was able to push it back off the fingers and have 'gap'. I called McLeod to get that test to see if I had any 'gap'. So that will go away once I push the pedal. Everything you wrote seems to be right on thank you. I will report back if I have clutch slippage issues. I have been hesitant to 'send it' as I am doing my best to follow instructions and bread it in correctly, but as I previously posted, I thought I sensed something slip. Im hoping it was the rear tires. That would be great.

 

[clementine]

Ill get it out tomorrow, Im fabricating a few things for cooling right now.

 

[clementine]

Got the barracuda out and gave it the beans on the 1-2 shift. Good purchase. Clutch performed well. Going to continue break in nice n easy while curing the omnipresent BB in an A body overheating issue.

Thanks FABO!