Matts440
Well-Known Member
Anyone know what this is? I know its in inch pounds I asked them and must have deleted the email.
Melling pump cover bolt torque
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nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Sorry I don't know the actual answer..... I would just read the bolt grade from the bolt markings and go with the standard numbers for the thread pitch and size and grade. There is nothing super critical here except to keep the cover on.... it's not like they machine the housing with the cover torqued in place. (That would be a trick LOL.)
Matts440
Well-Known Member
True, just if I barely touch it with a wrench I can't move the gears, but if I just finger snug them then I can turn it with quite a bit of resistance.
Sounds like you've got something under the gear. You should be able to turn that with very little effort. That's with the bolts tighten down.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
New pump? Then something is wrong in the pump or how it was machined (housing not machined deep enough, or either rotor too machined too tall). Pull the rotors out and see if something is underneath, or if there is something sticking out the bottom of the cover or on the top or bottom of either rotor, or either rotor is not seating fully. With the pump bolted in place, there is a small clearance of a few thousandths between the cover and both rotors.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well I did send the pump out to have the gears coated, cleaned it all up, put some engine oil on the gears. They coated the gears, housing right where the gear are only and a circle on the cap.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well I'll take it all apart again and check everything out again. Anyone know a easy way to remove and be able to reuse the spring pressure cap?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yeah I got a precision one today and will play with the other one.
If you coated the inside of the housing where the rotor rides and gear and coated the gear and the rotor and the plate that bolts to the bottom. I would say that you coated your clearance's right out of the pump.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Think your right on that, might try removing the coating on the cover and see, the new one is ordered and soon on its way.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yep. Sounds like you need to take the coating off of the tops and bottoms of the gears, off of the bottom of the housing where the gears ride, and off the the plate where it faces into the gears. Seems like 'they' coated the wrong areas for this type of pump.
I would never imagine bothering with coatings in this type of pump.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I'll play with it. Worse case ill have a back up pump if I can get it to spin easier. It's to make it last longer and I think to help push more oil, was advised to have them coated by a builder/machine shop here to help with idle oil flow, just to make sure I feed not only the engine but not to starve the turbos either.
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Matts440
Well-Known Member
It's a powder coat, for thermo protect and help increase volume, I sent it to line2line coating
Was that a "coated" used pump?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Then you need to check with line2line before you do anything. Their coating is meant to wear in. So it must be tight.
Damn I didn't know they were doing stuff like that. My next engine is going to start with l2l coatings on the Pistons and now probably the oil pump.
Everything I've seen shows their coatings work. So check with them. As long as you can turn the engine over without binding it may not be the problem you think it is.
Also, keep us posted. This is very interesting. I like cool technology like this. Now I'm pissed my pump isn't coated.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yellow rose dont you get the precision oil pumps? Those do come coated too.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
No, because I don't think they are coated with the line2line stuff. I was using some coated pumps in the 1990's (yes I'm old) and we had some flaking issues.
That line2line stuff is its own animal from what I've seen and it's cool as hell.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Does your paper work say exactly which coating they used? The have some that are only .0002-.0003 thick and that's what I'd ASSume they used but I could be wrong.
They have coatings that can close up piston clearance by up to .020 so that's something I may use on a vintage dirt bike I need to make run.
They have coatings that can close up piston clearance by up to .020 so that's something I may use on a vintage dirt bike I need to make run.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yeah it's some awesome stuff they do, should have had them do my piston skirts too. Well I sent off a email to line2line we shall see what they say.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I was looking for the paperwork and cant find it right now to see which one they did use. If I find it will post up and check it on their site, my machine shop swears by them.
I've been using a coating for over 35 years on all my dirt bike pistons and It is slipperier than Teflon (COF: 0.03) and has a higher temp rating than Teflon -450F - +1200F. I have used it on all my bearings in my engine and in the piston skirts and has a 0.5 micron thickness. Load bearing ability of coating is as high as 300.000 psi. So when I hear of new coatings that they wont give the spec of or the exact name with a tech data or a MSDS sheet and it is proprietary it's hard to believe. There are so many aerospace lubes that can't be beat like this one that was developed a long time ago that everyone thinks they are junk but I know different.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
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