Metal in oil

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71GSSDemon said:
My questions...


Motor has 17,000 miles on per OP. What has changed?? Was it like this last change? What would be wearing out so long after the build? Did it sit for a long time? Is it diluted oil?
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yes 17,000 total miles on crate motor.
I’m second owner since build, it had 10,000 miles on it when I purchased it.
I changed oil promptly and switched to Amsoil Z-Rod — PO was using Driven with Zinc. And did a proper break in. He’s on FABO as “ Cuda 36” and documented the build in “ restorations” … car was a SOCAL slant6
At that time I also added magnetic oil plug
Pics show last 2 oil changes, Nov of 23 and Nov of 24 each with just over 2500 miles.
Car never sits long … I drive it 7 days a week except in winter where it may sit like a couple of weeks to a month due to snow.
Hope this helps.
I mean should I have the cam pulled and investigate?
I’m not a guy that can do that work, although I do a lot just not internals —— I’m leaning that way.
I’m festitous on Oil Level
Shouldn’t be diluted
 
Fittrjoe said:
yes 17,000 total miles on crate motor.
I’m second owner since build, it had 10,000 miles on it when I purchased it.
I changed oil promptly and switched to Amsoil Z-Rod — PO was using Driven with Zinc. And did a proper break in. He’s on FABO as “ Cuda 36” and documented the build in “ restorations” … car was a SOCAL slant6
At that time I also added magnetic oil plug
Pics show last 2 oil changes, Nov of 23 and Nov of 24 each with just over 2500 miles.
Car never sits long … I drive it 7 days a week except in winter where it may sit like a couple of weeks to a month due to snow.
Hope this helps.
I mean should I have the cam pulled and investigate?
I’m not a guy that can do that work, although I do a lot just not internals —— I’m leaning that way.
I’m festitous on Oil Level
Shouldn’t be diluted
Click to expand...
Does it have stock paddle style rockers and valve gear? I'd snatch a valve cover and make sure the rockers and rocker shafts are installed correctly and all the spacers on the shaft bolts are in the correct places. I've seen incorrectly installed rocker assemblies get chewed up on the sides before. That's one possible source.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Does it have stock paddle style rockers and valve gear? I'd snatch a valve cover and make sure the rockers and rocker shafts are installed correctly and all the spacers on the shaft bolts are in the correct places. I've seen incorrectly installed rocker assemblies get chewed up on the sides before. That's one possible source.
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I’m not sure, and to be honest I wouldn’t know what I’m looking at —- or Maybe I would, but then what —- I’ve never worked engine internals
I’m probably gonna get it into a reputable engine rebuilder in Spokane and have him look at top end and possibly fix what the issue(s) are
I’ve got so much into other upgrades ( Suspension / Fuel / Exterior/ wiring) that I wanna get to bottom of this.
Car runs like a beast and is a blast but something doesn’t sit right with me about the Metal Fuzz on magnet, especially since it’s not a fresh motor at 17,000 miles
Lots of good responses here that give me a baseline knowledge to speak to with a rebuilder.
Hopefully they can do work with engine in car if not to extensive
 
Do you plan on removing engine to take to rebuilder? If so remove the valve covers and take pics. Lots of knowledgable people that can help you.
There are nuances to these engines, make sure this engine rebuilder is knowledgable on mopars.
Maybe post a thread looking for someone in Spokane area to come take a look at engine for you? Cost of a few beers and lunch. Make a new friend and gain some insight.
 
4spdragtop said:
Do you plan on removing engine to take to rebuilder? If so remove the valve covers and take pics. Lots of knowledgable people that can help you.
There are nuances to these engines, make sure this engine rebuilder is knowledgable on mopars.
Maybe post a thread looking for someone in Spokane area to come take a look at engine for you? Cost of a few beers and lunch. Make a new friend and gain some insight.
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No I won’t be pulling motor .
WAY beyond my capabilities.
Valve covers ? -yes - pics etc-
I like your way of thinking. I actually have a good set of Valve cover gaskets here —- was gonna go after cleaning bulkhead connectors soon and need to remove drivers side anyway for access.
I’ll pull both and inspect / take pics and try to coordinate with someone knowledgeable and willing

I will do a post per your advice for a local Mopar guy. I like it .
 
Yep, post pics of valve train here in this post to keep it
I would be leery of driving it until the issue is resolved, just to be safe.
Fittrjoe said:
No I won’t be pulling motor .
WAY beyond my capabilities.
Valve covers ? -yes - pics etc-
I like your way of thinking. I actually have a good set of Valve cover gaskets here —- was gonna go after cleaning bulkhead connectors soon and need to remove drivers side anyway for access.
I’ll pull both and inspect / take pics and try to coordinate with someone knowledgeable and willing

I will do a post per your advice for a local Mopar guy. I like it .
Click to expand...
 
Fittrjoe said:
No I won’t be pulling motor .
WAY beyond my capabilities.
Valve covers ? -yes - pics etc-
I like your way of thinking. I actually have a good set of Valve cover gaskets here —- was gonna go after cleaning bulkhead connectors soon and need to remove drivers side anyway for access.
I’ll pull both and inspect / take pics and try to coordinate with someone knowledgeable and willing

I will do a post per your advice for a local Mopar guy. I like it .
Click to expand...
If you can pull a valve cover, you can pull an engine. Don't be ridiculous. These cars are OLD and SIMPLE. Get you a factory service manual and READ it cover to cover. You'll see how easy it is. Didn't you learn to read and write? Wasn't that over your head before you learned?
 
i know that valve springs and dampners wear metal, into engine, i installed pot holder magnets in drainback hole in heads, takes 7 in each head, i no longer have metal in the pan, it cured the problem. when i pull covers off, they are covered with metal, pull and clean them. simple fix. just food for thought. my race engine and my 273 street engine have them in the heads.
 
Rustyratrod ,I guess what I really mean is right now I don’t have the time or energy
Arthritis and A-fib have got me pretty much beat down.
Coming from the building trades as a Pipefitter for 43 years I’ve done way harder things, ( setting Boilers/ Chillers / compressors/Steam mains)just don’t have the wherewithal right now.
Plus I’m redoing the wiring little by little right now. Just redid the entire suspension myself with QA1 so Im not feelin it.
Will pull valve covers very soon and post pics sir.
 
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perfacar said:
i know that valve springs and dampners wear metal, into engine, i installed pot holder magnets in drainback hole in heads, takes 7 in each head, i no longer have metal in the pan, it cured the problem. when i pull covers off, they are covered with metal, pull and clean them. simple fix. just food for thought. my race engine and my 273 street engine have them in the heads.
Click to expand...
Really appreciate this info sir!
Will pull valve covers very soon and post pics!
 
perfacar said:
i know that valve springs and dampners wear metal, into engine, i installed pot holder magnets in drainback hole in heads, takes 7 in each head, i no longer have metal in the pan, it cured the problem. when i pull covers off, they are covered with metal, pull and clean them. simple fix. just food for thought. my race engine and my 273 street engine have them in the heads.
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Pics of valve train
Looks clean to me
Dual springs ?
Rockers normal ?

IMG_2823.jpeg


IMG_2824.jpeg


IMG_2825.jpeg


IMG_2827.jpeg


IMG_2828.jpeg
 
looks like you have dual springs with dampners, on drain back areas , install pot holder magnets to capture metal seven per side .
 
Fittrjoe said:
Rustyratrod ,I guess what I really mean is right now I don’t have the time or energy
Arthritis and A-fib have got me pretty much beat down.
Coming from the building trades as a Pipefitter for 43 years I’ve done way harder things, ( setting Boilers/ Chillers / compressors/Steam mains)just don’t have the wherewithal right now.
Plus I’m redoing the wiring little by little right now. Just redid the entire suspension myself with QA1 so Im not feelin it.
Will pull valve covers very soon and post pics sir.
Click to expand...
Man I can relate about not having the energy. That's a fact.
 
The rockers look installed correctly. Yay. On the shafts.....There "should be" a slot on the very front end of the driver's side rocker shaft that should be pointing down towards the engine and on the passenger's side shaft, that slot should be to the rear and pointing down towards the engine.
 
Oh one other area to check. Look at where the pushrods go through the heads VERY VERY closely. Look for witness marks on the pushrods and the holes in the head for where the pushrods might be making contact with the edges of the holes. That's a common problem.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Some things from this thread.

Do not use diesel oils in gas engines. That's just wrong.

If you have to add something to your oil to make it better, buy a better oil. You do not have a clue what you are changing to the parent oil when you do that.

What may look good initially can come back and bite you in the ***.

If it takes more than 10 minutes of driving to seat the rings you need to find a better machine shop. This bullshit of thousand mile plus break in is piss poor machining.

If I found that on my drain plug or in my filter I'd pull the engine and see what's wrong before it went any further.
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Agree. I have always broken in my stuff( after initial 1/2 hour cam breakin) by doing a long smokey burnout.
I also can’t say as I agree with an opinion somebody posted to swap out the valve springs for something lighter.
Springs being too light can cause enormous issues, spec the spring to what the cam manufacturer says, no sense doing otherwise
 
perfacar said:
looks like you have dual springs with dampners, on drain back areas , install pot holder magnets to capture metal seven per side .
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Hard to see on Q-tip, but fine glittery metal laying in drain back area as you thought. THIS after a recent oil change like 10 miles ago.
I assume this is where you suggest putting magnets?
I see 7 drain back areas like second pic.
Wow thanks

IMG_2834.jpeg


IMG_2835.jpeg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh one other area to check. Look at where the pushrods go through the heads VERY VERY closely. Look for witness marks on the pushrods and the holes in the head for where the pushrods might be making contact with the edges of the holes. That's a common problem.
Click to expand...
No witness marks …
Pic is of the closest one/ clearance wise
Rods look like NOT rubbing

IMG_2839.jpeg
 
B3422w5 said:
Agree. I have always broken in my stuff( after initial 1/2 hour cam breakin) by doing a long smokey burnout.
I also can’t say as I agree with an opinion somebody posted to swap out the valve springs for something lighter.
Springs being too light can cause enormous issues, spec the spring to what the cam manufacturer says, no sense doing otherwise
Click to expand...
I contacted TRISTAR motors who built engine… and yes springs were spec to match Cam … thus the dual springs existing
TRISTAR has been awesome answering questions I had on this 360LA / 350HP crate engine as far as what was used on Pistons and internals etc.
They provided Cam card as well.
Actually spoke with the guy that built it 3 years ago when I bought the car
 
If it were me, I would be pulling rocker shafts and inspecting further.
Everything so far "appears" normal, but hard to tell without digging deeper?
 
Fittrjoe said:
I contacted TRISTAR motors who built engine… and yes springs were spec to match Cam … thus the dual springs existing
TRISTAR has been awesome answering questions I had on this 360LA / 350HP crate engine as far as what was used on Pistons and internals etc.
They provided Cam card as well.
Actually spoke with the guy that built it 3 years ago when I bought the car
Click to expand...
That is not a dual spring. It’s a single spring with a flat wire damper. They are not the same thing.

Those dampers are what perfacar was talking about. Those make a ton of dirt.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
That is not a dual spring. It’s a single spring with a flat wire damper. They are not the same thing.

Those dampers are what perfacar was talking about. Those make a ton of dirt.
Click to expand...
Look closer. There's a smaller inner spring on the inside of the dampers.
 
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