Mild 360 stalls when I put it in gear.

[moparbob67]

advancing the distributor is counterclockwise. expect the rpms to go up until it takes all it can , then it will misfire. set your timing, and then adjust your idle screw to get the rpm you want. make sure your mixture is where it needs to be before adjusting the curb idle.

people have different methods. i set the timing, tune the carb, set the idle

Thats what I mean the rpm goes up and my timing goes up too... way up like 30* or 40* and if I back the idle down it still reads the same.

 

[Bulldozer]

your saying that your timing is at 30* no matter where the rpms are? unplug the vacuum advance, plug the vacuum port on the carb and see what happens

 

[moparbob67]

your saying that your timing is at 30* no matter where the rpms are? unplug the vacuum advance, plug the vacuum port on the carb and see what happens

Somewhat, I think its above 40. maybe 50* or 60*. I have my balancer marked to 20* and I dont see that at all. It is messed up. but the timing does go up when I rev it up. Would that be the distributor going bad? Where should the vacuum thing be at? Mine is pointing toward the firewall and almost touching.

 

[Bulldozer]

what i would do is, set the timing at around 30-35* at about 3000 rpms. then come back and set your curb idle at around 7-800 rpm , and see how it likes that. if that is not doing the trick , i would guess there is something off with your timing tape. there is no way that thing is running on all 8 cylinders at 60+ degrees advanced. it would have all but stopped running.

 

[crackedback]

which fender do you look over to set timing?

Where is the balancer mark in relation to your timing tabs zero mark

 

[moparbob67]

Would it make a difference if I took the plug wires off, turned the distributor till the vacuum thing is facing in towards the engine then put the plug wires back on?

 

[crackedback]

So you push the vacuum can closer to the firewall and it advances?

You don't seem to like to answer all the questions asked.

 

[Bulldozer]

.....you can put the plug wires any where you want to on the cap. in order to help you , we need answers to the questions

 

[moparbob67]

which fender do you look over to set timing?

Where is the balancer mark in relation to your timing tabs zero mark

When it is on TDC the balancer mark is at zero and I have the timing set to 17* or 18*. So when its running the balancer mark is just barley visible up by the water pump. I have my balancer marked at 10* and 20* so at 20* timing it would be on the zero mark. Its on the drivers side. The distributor rotor is pointing right now the center of the engine well maybe just a little bit toward number 1 cylinder.

 

[moparbob67]

Also the exhaust really smells, like it running to rich but even when I have the carb running lean it still smells like that and also you see a bluish smoke. It is not oil. I think its running to rich unless timing has something to do with that.

 

[moparbob67]

So you push the vacuum can closer to the firewall and it advances?

You don't seem to like to answer all the questions asked.

I dont know. I think it retards it. when I move it the other way it revs up and if I keep going it sounds like **** when it starts to die off and like I said the mark on the balancer goes way off like it is reading 40* or 50*

 

[crackedback]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Yes pushing it towards the firewall retards it.

Any fuel dripping in the carb throats? Do the carb idle mix screws have any affect when turned all the way in?

If it starts OK when warm at 16-20 degrees initial, that's usually a pretty good range.

I wouldn't hook up the vac advance at all until you have the idle sorted out.

Real lean and real rich will have the same odor, don't get fooled by that thinking it's rich, could be the exact opposite.

 

[moparbob67]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Yes pushing it towards the firewall retards it.

Any fuel dripping in the carb throats? Do the carb idle mix screws have any affect when turned all the way in?

If it starts OK when warm at 16-20 degrees initial, that's usually a pretty good range.

I wouldn't hook up the vac advance at all until you have the idle sorted out.

Real lean and real rich will have the same odor, don't get fooled by that thinking it's rich, could be the exact opposite.

When I turn the carb idle mix screws in yes it runs really ruff and almost dies. I have them tuned out like 3 or 4 turns. I do see any fuel dripping in.

 

[OldmanRick]

If your vacuum is dropping alot at in gear idle it's probably trying to pull more fuel and that's killing it. The fact that new plugs helped would seem to support that theory. A true vacuum reading in and out of gear would help the diagnosis, and give us a measure of how much cam you really have. If your considering changing carbs. i'm curious what intake you are running. Do you know your compression ratio? I'm biased on the subject, and not sure how much cam you have, but big, meaning 240 deg. @ .050 or more are much more managable with a Holley carb, jmo.

Hi Bob, i think if you have you timing close, 14-18 initial your good for now. I still believe the lower vacuum in gear is causing issues in the idle circuit. I found this thread and maybe this could help.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=111327&highlight=step+spring

This wont make me popular, but some think it's a badge of honor to have a large cam engine idle at 700-800 rpm. I know people don't want the car to die in gear, and i agree. But whenever i ran a cam with more then 230 duration @ .050 and lobe centers closer then 112* i always neutraled the car anytime i was stopped more then about 5 sec. anyway. Guess i'm just old school, i always drove my fun cars like race cars.

 

[bad440]

Nah he can use the search function...

What cam is it exactly. A big cam to you may not be to someone else.

I bet it's dropping timing when put in gear and if the cam is really big, bump it up to 20* initial then dial in the total number by altering the distributor.

5 psi max on fuel pressure. Is it dripping fuel in from the boosters when idling? If it's an old ede 750 1407 or 1411, IMO, it's a pile of junk.

i thought all the eddy afb's were universal crap.