Modern Headlights

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Pawned

N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
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I had to purchase Sylvania H6024 headlamps for the Duster. These are god-awful. I can barely see anything while driving at night. Last night, I stayed next to another car and used his headlights to drive by.
I do not remember headlamps back in 1971 being so dim.

The H6024 looks to be a 2 piece setup. the front lens attached to the reflector and a bulb inside. I am going to attempt to separate the two pieces and put in a different bulb.
Any suggestions on a good bulb to put in the reflector?

Normally, I do not like driving at night. Taking the Duster is like driving with sunglasses. So normally I drive my 2007 ford.

Suggestions/feedback?
 
The factory headlights (all new wiring and bulbs) on my 68 fastback are better than my 2003 Ram1500 !
Not that it's hard to beat those POS,s......
 
The H6024 is a sealed beam, not a 2 piece item; just look it up. Any chance the auto store messed up the parts in the boxes?? Check the PN again.....

If you do indeed have a 2 piece light, then random changing of the bulbs is not necessarily going to work. The center of the light has to be at the right point, and any reflectors or blockers need to be at exactly the right locations. So no way anyone can help you if the lights are no ID'd correctly, and probably not even then.

In what way are they awful? Too dim? Light not going in the right directions?
 
I've had good luck with the GE Nighthawks (recommended by another member here on the forum)
Part# H6024NH

Can get them on Amazon relatively cheap.

Another big help to getting full power to the head lights was to put them on their own relays.
 
I plan to add these at some point down the road

http://www.rallylights.com/h6024-7-round-e-code-hi-lo-conversion-headlamp-kit.html

right now i put in crakedbacks relay kit and i did notice the lights are already brighter when turned on while sitting in the shop.

At the moment i have those sylvania lights but i do have some Ge 6024 nighthawks on their way. Everything i have read about bulbs the nighthawks are the way to go unless you want to go all out and buy some cibies that are near impossible to find.

Most people will link you to daniel stern (slantsixdan) on the interwebs, but he seems shady to me.

The Hella lights posted up is suppose to be the second best thing out there for lights and then the nighthawks as the third best option (budget minded)

Everything i have read is add the relay kit and it will be the best starting point. The lights get their power directly from the alternator/starter/battery and feed the full 12 volts to the lights.

The relay package can be pieced together from some junkyard cars, but i didnt have any time to piece together my own setup so i just went with crackedbacks kit.
 
There's a lot of great info on this topic on FABO & also the allpar article.
We are really lucky yo have a resident lighting expert on here SlantSixDan, check out his posts on this topic
 
Get the plug and play headlight relay from crackedback, best money you'll spend, and it's amazing te difference in lighting!! I'm running the Sylvania headlight's and it's a night and day difference.
 
I had to purchase Sylvania H6024 headlamps for the Duster. These are god-awful.

Yes, they are. Almost all sealed beams you can buy today are godawful; they're sloppily made on decrepit tooling that should have been scrapped and replaced years ago, but there's no money in sealed beams any more, so the retool cost wouldn't be made back. China-based company Eiko recently came out with a line of newly-tooled sealed beams that are also garbage (surprise). The one and only readily-available 7" round sealed beam that's not complete junk is this one. But by and large, sealed beams don't work well. The 7" round is the world's most common headlamp size, even still today despite very few new vehicles using it; believe it or don't, there are now more good options in 7" round headlamps than there ever have been before. Unfortunately, there are also now more bad options than ever before, and they're all hyped as an "upgrade", so you have to be skeptical and get well and truly educated before deciding what to put in.

The H6024 looks to be a 2 piece setup. the front lens attached to the reflector and a bulb inside.

Yes, the lens is epoxied to the reflector and the bulb is integrally manufactured with the reflector.

I am going to attempt to separate the two pieces and put in a different bulb.

Well…no, you're not. You're going to destroy the headlamp in trying to do so. And even if you could pull a Samantha Stevens and magic a different bulb in, there is no different bulb that would make this lousy headlamp into a good one.

You've already been pointed at this article; also see this one. The photos of the headlight beams on the road in both articles are very poor (because photos of beam patterns are useless even if the photographer's really trying; see here) but the text is very descriptive and accurate.

Even if you ignore the enormous amount of overhyped junk on the market, even if you stay within legitimate headlamps that genuinely meet recognized technical standards, you can have whatever you want. You can have replaceable-bulb halogens, you can have BiXenons, you can have LEDs. It's all down to how well you want to see at night and what you're willing to spend. Legitimate BiXenons will cost you about $1500 for the pair. The best LEDs are the J.W. Speaker units in chrome or black. Less-expensive and still quite good are the Truck-Lite and Peterson units. The fun part: all these LED headlamps are made in America! There's a lot of private-branding/PFR, too; the Truck-Lite lamp is also sold as a GE Night Hawk and as a Philips, and the Peterson lamp is also sold as a Sylvania and as a KC.

When you're figuring costs, keep in mind you need relays and better wiring for halogens, but not for BiXenons or LEDs because of their low current draw (lower than the original sealed beams).

Steer clear of suspiciously cheap HID headlamps that amount to a halogen headlight (usually an H4) with an "HID kit". "HID kits" in halogen-bulb headlamps or fog/auxiliary lamps (any kit, any lamp, any vehicle no matter whether it's a car, truck, motorcycle, etc.) do not work safely or effectively, which is why they are illegal. See here for full info. Same goes for "LED conversion" headlight bulb kits. They are not a legitimate, safe, effective, or legal product. No matter whose name is on them or what the vendor claims, these are a fraudulent scam. They are not capable of producing even a fraction of the amount of light produced by the filament bulb they supposedly replace, let alone producing it in the right pattern for the lamp's optics to work.

And whatever headlamps you put in, it's imperative to aim them properly.

There are other good upgrades to bring an old vehicle's lighting up to snuff for use in modern traffic; see Allpar articles here and here, for example (featuring A-bodies!), and here. And there are (finally!) legitimate and very affordable LED upgrades for the brake lights and back-up lights; see here.

Previous discussions on this board about upgrading lights: here and here.

Full disclosure, I'm the Daniel Stern mentioned in the Allpar articles. Yup, I do sell lighting upgrade equipment, but not on the board here; we've got a board member who offers real nice headlamp relay setups.
 
I am looking at these to replace the junk I have http://tinyurl.com/qfkmkek
Opinions/feedback?

I went out and bought the relays needed to build the headlamp relay system.
Before I did any rewiring, I checked the difference between a direct connect and switch connect for brightness. The difference is very slight.

I had rewired the Duster about a year ago. Mopar calls for #18awg wires. Almost always I oversize wires when I put them in, whether it be for the cars, house or anything else. Just a personal preference. This is why I built my own wire looms (plus I want the enjoyment of building them) as opposed to buying them from some vendor.
I have #16 awg wiring in there. I could up it to #14 or #12 awg wire, but I think that may be a waste of time and wire. What do you think?

I measured a voltage drop of 1.005 VDC with my existing wiring, although this is on battery. It may differ when I have her running and the voltage goes up. This may account for the very slight difference in brightness that I noticed. As I have everything I need to build the relay setup, I probably will. (just for s**ts and giggles)

Slantsixdan, your info it great. So is everyone elses. It is appreciated. BTW I was able to separate the H6024 using a very thin diamond blade. 15 minutes wasted.
 
As my existing plastic enclosure was too small, I pulled it and the wiring, to put in a larger enclosure.

I worked on it from 7am to 5pm and when I ended for the day, I was able to get to the same place I was before I started.
I also found if you swap the J and P wires (these number are the same as the firewall connectors, before I tore them out) the ammeter is reversed and scares the hell out of you.

Ed
 
Once I installed member Crackedbacks headlight relay kit in my 72 Demon the headlights were better than I could have hoped for. I drive to and from evening/ night cruses and shows all the time with no issues. I highly recommend this upgrade great kit at a fair price.
 
I am looking at these to replace the junk I have http://tinyurl.com/qfkmkek
Opinions/feedback?

Headlite-shaped toys from India. Junk, do not buy. If you need headlamps that are both decent and cheap, don't get cheap replaceable-bulb units, get these GEs. If there's more money than that in the budget, the Hella units linked by sireland67 are a very decent entry point, and you can go upward from there in both price and performance. Bulb selection matters a lot; if I were buying those Hellas (or any other H4 headlamp, for that matter) I would ignore the standard bulbs they came with and put in these; see really good (tech-y) bulb test results posted over here and note the giant difference between standard H4 and the Philips Xtreme.

I went out and bought the relays needed to build the headlamp relay system.
Before I did any rewiring, I checked the difference between a direct connect and switch connect for brightness. The difference is very slight.

But did you also run a direct ground? Body grounds were marginal when new, and they don't improve with age. Also, lousy headlamps remain lousy even when properly fed and grounded.

I have #16 awg wiring in there. I could up it to #14 or #12 awg wire, but I think that may be a waste of time and wire. What do you think?

Minimum 14ga for feed and ground if you want to feed halogen headlamps efficiently. 10ga is too much (hard to make a physically reliable connection with the particular connectors involved). Do make sure to run your 12ga or 14ga wire all the way to the headlamps, which will require new sockets and terminals capable of handling the large-gauge wire, not the chintzy factory or parts store items that have 18ga.

I measured a voltage drop of 1.005 VDC with my existing wiring

Did you measure drop on both legs (feed, ground)?

This may account for the very slight difference in brightness that I noticed.

Filament bulb output is not linear with voltage change, it's exponential to the power 3.4. Small voltage drop = large light loss. A bulb with rated output of 700 lumens at 12.8 volts produces only 530 lumens at 11.8 volts (25% light loss).

Slantsixdan, your info it great.

Y'welcome; I try my best…shades and all! :glasses7:
 
I think I would stay away from those lights that you linked. The faux 'semi-Hella' lettering logo style and the cardboard box scream 'China' to me LOL. 'AutoPal' brand? You gotta be kidding me...LOLx2 I would not waste my money a 2nd time.

As far as the wiring, if the wiring is good, it can work. Voltage drop is voltage drop; there will likely be less with a relay mounted close to the lights. All you can do is try a good light (like a Hella) and see if it is adequate for you and work from there with the voltage drop. Be aware that 55W bulb will draw about 1 amp more than a standard or Halogen filament sealed beam, so that will increase you voltage drop.
 
But did you also run a direct ground? Body grounds were marginal when new, and they don't improve with age. Also, lousy headlamps remain lousy even when properly fed and grounded.

which will require new sockets and terminals capable of handling the large-gauge wire, not the chintzy factory or parts store items that have 18ga.

Did you measure drop on both legs (feed, ground)?

Grounding is something I am always very aware of. I was in the computer power industry for many years..... Improper grounding, in a computer room environment, is the cause of 90% of all power related problems. IMHO
I have grounded the hell out of the entire car

I was going to rebuild the sockets if I can not get the wire gauge I want.
 
I think I would stay away from those lights that you linked. The faux 'semi-Hella' lettering logo style and the cardboard box scream 'China' to me LOL. 'AutoPal' brand? You gotta be kidding me...LOLx2 I would not waste my money a 2nd time.

There are tons of this junk on the market. AutoPal and Neolite are two from India…Delta is an American marketing name slapped on poor-quality Wesem lights from Poland…Eagle Eye, Depo, TYC, Rampage, Pilot, Maxtel, and a list of other random names way too long to post are garbage from China.

The list of legitimate makers (and brands) is much smaller: Valeo (Cibie, Marchal), AL (Bosch, Carello), Hella, Koito, Ichikoh, Stanley, J.W. Speaker, Truck-Lite, Peterson, Philips, Osram/Sylvania, GE, Narva pretty much covers it. Not all of these companies have aftermarket product distribution, and not all these companies' products are necessarily good, but that's a pretty complete list of companies that produce at least some respectable headlamps and/or bulbs.

(name games: years ago there was a headlamp company in Czecheslovakia/Czech Republic called Pal, who later changed their name to Autopal…zero relation to the jokers in India. Some of the Czech Pal/Autopal headlamps were really good, including their 7" round H4. I have a few of them in my collection. Damn shame they're not available any more.)
 
I plan to add these at some point down the road

http://www.rallylights.com/h6024-7-round-e-code-hi-lo-conversion-headlamp-kit.html

right now i put in crakedbacks relay kit and i did notice the lights are already brighter when turned on while sitting in the shop.

At the moment i have those sylvania lights but i do have some Ge 6024 nighthawks on their way. Everything i have read about bulbs the nighthawks are the way to go unless you want to go all out and buy some cibies that are near impossible to find.

Most people will link you to daniel stern (slantsixdan) on the interwebs, but he seems shady to me.

The Hella lights posted up is suppose to be the second best thing out there for lights and then the nighthawks as the third best option (budget minded)

Everything i have read is add the relay kit and it will be the best starting point. The lights get their power directly from the alternator/starter/battery and feed the full 12 volts to the lights.

The relay package can be pieced together from some junkyard cars, but i didnt have any time to piece together my own setup so i just went with crackedbacks kit.


.

what is shady about him? the fact that he may not tell you what you want to hear?




.
 
dan, is this a decent headlight for my 2000 jeep cherokee?

Not the worst on the market, but you will see much better at night if you get this one instead.

In general, avoid headlamps that are promoted on claims to produce "whiter" light (or "extra white", "super white", etc). That claim is basically a scam no matter what brand is on the product. See here for detailed info. Nutshell version, "whiter light" halogen bulbs and sealed beams have blue-tinted glass capsules, which blocks some of the light that would reach the road if the glass weren't tinted, so they produce less (not more) usable light than ordinary bulbs, and in order to get legal-minimum levels of light through the blue glass the filament has to be driven very hard so these bulbs have a very short lifespan. And there's nothing about the tinted light that improves your ability to see—the opposite is true, in fact. All it does is change the beam color slightly, to zero real benefit.

The blue-glass scam is just trying to cover up the brownish light appearance that you get when your headlamp circuit starves your bulbs. In the course of doing so, it blocks a lot of light that would otherwise reach the road (take a look at an orange sodium street light through the blue strip at the top of your windshield...yeah, it looks whiter, and a whole hell of a lot dimmer! This is that.) A properly-fed halogen bulb burns nice and bright white without any blue-glass shenanigans.

Note Sylvania recently got spanked to the tune of thirty million dollars(!) for the false "upgrade" claims on their Silver Star bulbs.
 
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