Monroe air shocks

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Jimminey Christmas! If I put that much air in my HiJackers it would be sky high!!!
 
I own a hvac company - I can't Believe I not thought of that . But that won't help them fro leaking down over few weeks. I'll need to try a new brand I guess

Or try jacking it up just a little more than you want, and then loosen the shackle and leafspring mount bolts. Jounce the car a few times, and then retighten. See if that helps.

Air has to leak from somewhere. It's possible the pressure raises when you drive (heats up), and only leaks then. Could be something cools while it's parked and it leaks.

Over tightening an oring can be as bad as a loose one. If you've tried tighter without luck, I'd try looser. Whatever the spec is for torque, try to hold to it or just under maybe (since the fittings aren't new).

Plastics are often not impervious either. There may be better hoses on the market, I don't know. If possible, I might try a direct fitting on the shock body with just a Schrader, no line at all. That would potentially eliminate more variables than anything else.
 
............................ Just doesn't get it.
the tire is too wide. Airs hocks are designed to keep the car level, not jacked up.
That was 70's kids stuff. The suspensions are much more refined 50 years later.
A Hellcat has at least a 10-12" tire width range, no air shocks.
But the body was designed for a wider tire an A-body wasn't.

beatinghorse4.gif
 
Or try jacking it up just a little more than you want, and then loosen the shackle and leafspring mount bolts. Jounce the car a few times, and then retighten. See if that helps.

Air has to leak from somewhere. It's possible the pressure raises when you drive (heats up), and only leaks then. Could be something cools while it's parked and it leaks.

Over tightening an oring can be as bad as a loose one. If you've tried tighter without luck, I'd try looser. Whatever the spec is for torque, try to hold to it or just under maybe (since the fittings aren't new).

Plastics are often not impervious either. There may be better hoses on the market, I don't know. If possible, I might try a direct fitting on the shock body with just a Schrader, no line at all. That would potentially eliminate more variables than anything else.
I think it's the shocks themselves . Leaking such tiny amount over weeks and weeks of time .
 
............................ Just doesn't get it.
the tire is too wide. Airs hocks are designed to keep the car level, not jacked up.
That was 70's kids stuff. The suspensions are much more refined 50 years later.
A Hellcat has at least a 10-12" tire width range, no air shocks.
But the body was designed for a wider tire an A-body wasn't.

View attachment 1716058257It
It doesn't matter what tire I have . Get over it . My shocks leak down that's the problem . That's all I'm trying to ask about if A tone else has this problem and or what air shocks suggested . I've gotten all that . I don't need input on my tire choice. 275 for life
 
**** what it was designed for. They weren't designed for hemis either or 400-500 hp small blocks
 
I did not know air shocks were still being used on these cars. I have seen the shock cross members crack out on a couple b body's that had air shocks for long periods of time. The springs are where the car is designed to suspend the weight of the car.
 
I think it's the shocks themselves . Leaking such tiny amount over weeks and weeks of time .

As recommended, did you put vaseline on the airline O-rings when you installed them to seal and help slide into proper seating position, and not roll over and go out of shape when tightening?

☆☆☆☆☆
 
Good god! How many different people can tell you the same thing? Put springs on it with a taller arch, the correct off set rims and throw those air shocks in the trash!
 
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Some old school traction bars may help the air shocks compensate for lack of decent springs. With a wider radial tire and light spring pack it could help prevent wheel hop.
 
Some old school traction bars may help the air shocks compensate for lack of decent springs. With a wider radial tire and light spring pack it could help prevent wheel hop.
Unless it's resting on the bars ALL THE TIME, that's going to be a no.
 
There are reasons the air shocks and traction bars are not used anymore. But they were so common back in the day.
Bad sarcasm on my part.
 
It should a have pinion snubber anyway which won't help the problem he is having. Traction bars and air shocks are a stupid band aid.
 
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It's all in the plastic lines and the couplings, if you don't have good new O-rings in the couplings it ain't gonna hold.

The air shocks themselves hold well. Try a new line kit and soap bubble all the joints. you will see where they are leaking.

*****
Air shocks don't need much air to work, so just a small leak will lose the high pressure. Not sure what fittings are use on these shocks now, but I always use a Swimming pool lubricant for any "O" ring as such. Magic Lube is one. It helps in not cracking of the rubber. Some use a "compressing fitting", so make sure all contact areas are clean before installing. I have never had a balloon in the shocks fail, unless cut.
 
It doesn't matter what tire I have . Get over it . My shocks leak down that's the problem . That's all I'm trying to ask about if A tone else has this problem and or what air shocks suggested . I've gotten all that . I don't need input on my tire choice. 275 for life
The problem is you, using air shocks.
You could say the same thing about pinion snubbers.
Pinion snubbers are a bit different than traction bars. Traction bars were made to be installed on Chevies where the leaf spring design resulted in massive axle hop. There's two for a reason. They're an attempt to emulate the Chrysler design that was built into each and every leaf spring set.

The pinion snubber is a legit traction aid that was only installed to limit travel and aid weight distribution. That's why only one is needed.

Mopars of the era don't have axle windup issues like the Chevies do. In other words: The pinion snubber completed the system but wasn't really required unless racing supported the need for that approach. It was great for street cars of the day that saw some strip use.

The traction bar was added to try to resolve inherent deficiencies in the (Chevy) system. And like everything else, just because it fit their car, Mopar people felt the need to put them on their cars, too. They didn't accomplish anything, but added some little needed street cred.
 
Mopars of the era don't have axle windup issues like the Chevies do. In other words: The pinion snubber completed the system but wasn't really required unless racing supported the need for that approach. It was great for street cars of the day that saw some strip use.

The traction bar was added to try to resolve inherent deficiencies in the (Chevy) system. And like everything else, just because it fit their car, Mopar people felt the need to put them on their cars, too. They didn't accomplish anything, but added some little needed street cred.

Specifically mono-leafs, Chebbie or Ferd.
Thinking of a Ranchero I used to race against, - talk about wheel hop ! !

That's why it was a natural that a Mopar with slapper bars were pointed at, and laughed at, - by people that knew, - and people that didn't know, thought it was a Chebbie ! !
 
I have run Monroe Max on many cars and trucks. I pump mine up to 30 PSI and it raises the rear 1 inch.

On my 84 Rampage I have them and have pumped them up to 135 PSI and they stayed pumped for over 5 years now.

I had them on my 1981 Honda Goldwing Interstate. Never pumped them up past 20 PSI.

My compressor is a 26 gallon Porter Cable. I tweeked the pressure regulator and get 150 PSI at the tank. But I have replaced the chucks with better 'High Flow' 1/2" ones and use 3/4 inch copper piping. Using a 1/2 inch self winding reel I get 140 PSI at the tire chuck but I think my 10 PSI loss is in the 'Air Dryer'.

1965 Barracuda with a F body 8 1/4 rear, 15x7 real Cop car Ralleys hanging 275/60 15. I have stock 65 A body springs but added 1 extra short on the left forward and added 1 cut down D150 spring under the first long sprin. Rancho 9000 shocks. So 6 total leafs on both sides. Never rub unless I have 3 riders in the back seat.
Cuda3.JPG
 
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Big false claim that traction bars don't help a mopar . They don't do as much front to back due to none center mounting in our leaf springs . But they for sure help with side to side movement. A piñon snub also does nothing for side to side movement or keeping both sides of the car down .


This guy explains it better than I could but they do help , they will improve your hook up and side to side twisting.

My dad always said the same thing he ran his challenger with them and not with them many times over years. He take them off when mopar guys told him he didn't need them and then go back & forth & xousi see in all his vhs videos that the car did much better with them

 
I have run Monroe Max on many cars and trucks. I pump mine up to 30 PSI and it raises the rear 1 inch.

On my 84 Rampage I have them and have pumped them up to 135 PSI and they stayed pumped for over 5 years now.

I had them on my 1981 Honda Goldwing Interstate. Never pumped them up past 20 PSI.

My compressor is a 26 gallon Porter Cable. I tweeked the pressure regulator and get 150 PSI at the tank. But I have replaced the chucks with better 'High Flow' 1/2" ones and use 3/4 inch copper piping. Using a 1/2 inch self winding reel I get 140 PSI at the tire chuck but I think my 10 PSI loss is in the 'Air Dryer'.

1965 Barracuda with a F body 8 1/4 rear, 15x7 real Cop car Ralleys hanging 275/60 15. I have stock 65 A body springs but added 1 extra short on the left forward and added 1 cut down D150 spring under the first long sprin. Rancho 9000 shocks. So 6 total leafs on both sides. Never rub unless I have 3 riders in the back seat.
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My first car was a 84 rampage . Also my shocks don't move until I get 80 in them . And for about 2" up at 115 in them
 
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