joes68340s
Well-Known Member
Just wondering are people running these using a flow restricter or none at all. I modified a thermostat as a restricter seems to be to much restriction .
Moroso water pump drive kits
- Thread starter joes68340s
- Start date
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Why not just run a thermostat.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Depends on what kit the OP is discussing. If it’s an electric pump that mounts in place of the OE pump then he needs to run a thermostat. If it’s a belt driven set up, he needs to leave it out because the drive turns the pump so slow it can’t take any restriction and cool anything.
joes68340s
Well-Known Member
Thats my problem i restrited it. Its The drive kit. Thanks
PRH
Well-Known Member
My experience was that the electric motor with the belt that turns the W/P is barely adequate for drag race use.
I used the bigger pulley on the motor, and you don’t want to use any restrictors.
It also helps if you eliminate any thermostat bypass in the system(all the coolant flowing through the radiator all the time).
I used mine on a 485hp 383.
In normal air temps, the temp would just keep going up until you shut the engine off.
Prior to running the electric pump on that combo, I was using a regular fan belt off the crank for cooling.
No thermal runaway with that system, but I wanted to be able to cool the motor down between rounds....... which I was able to do with the moroso drive kit.
It was also worth a little ET, not driving the W/P & fan off the crank, along will being able to run cooler water temps each pass.
I used the bigger pulley on the motor, and you don’t want to use any restrictors.
It also helps if you eliminate any thermostat bypass in the system(all the coolant flowing through the radiator all the time).
I used mine on a 485hp 383.
In normal air temps, the temp would just keep going up until you shut the engine off.
Prior to running the electric pump on that combo, I was using a regular fan belt off the crank for cooling.
No thermal runaway with that system, but I wanted to be able to cool the motor down between rounds....... which I was able to do with the moroso drive kit.
It was also worth a little ET, not driving the W/P & fan off the crank, along will being able to run cooler water temps each pass.
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B3422w5
Well-Known Member
buy an electric water pump
mopar65
Well-Known Member
I run one on my 96 Dakota race truck. I used a gutted thermostat. I don't seem to be having any problems with it keeping my engine cool. but my engine is nothing radical. I wanted to go with a full electric water pump, but i don't have enough room between the water pump and my radiator.
Not sure if it is right or wrong, but I run a gutted thermostat and the Moroso water pump drive kit. Granted, my car runs on e85, but I don't have over heating issues driving on the street or track with this setup. I use a Chevy HHR fan that helps immensely at keeping the car cool when stuck in traffic, or hot lapping at the track with a double entry.
j par
Well-hung Member
I used one of those squirrel cage motors for a while until I was in the staging Lanes one day and someone said isn't that supposed to be turning? I jumped out and it wasn't turning and I gave it a little push and off it went lol.. it now resides on my shelf... I bought a real electric pump after that..
Also when I really took the RPMs up alternator belt would fly off because it was no longer triangulated. I ended up having to get a smaller drive pulley so it didn't RPM the alternator too much...
So I went through the expense of buying that squirrel cage pump setup, an electric pump setup, a smaller drive pulley, and then in the long run putting it all back how it was and dealt with the 10th of a second... At least now my shelves are full of crap I don't use.... LOL..
Also when I really took the RPMs up alternator belt would fly off because it was no longer triangulated. I ended up having to get a smaller drive pulley so it didn't RPM the alternator too much...
So I went through the expense of buying that squirrel cage pump setup, an electric pump setup, a smaller drive pulley, and then in the long run putting it all back how it was and dealt with the 10th of a second... At least now my shelves are full of crap I don't use.... LOL..
70 Buster 340
Carbon Footprint
I have the Moroso belt drive set-up.
For consideration...
The DC motor runs at 2800 RPM nominal
The motor has a 10 tooth drive cog belt pulley
The water pump has a 28 tooth cobg belt pulley
So.. the water pump turns at 1000 RPM
With that in mind I went with the 8 blade water pump, no restriction at the thermostat housing, a flow restrictor w/ 3/8" hole in the bypass hose.
I added an 'idler' to provide better contact of a couple of extra cog teeth engagement.
Seems good but the real test will be 'hot lapping' round robin style as that's what this car is built to do.
For consideration...
The DC motor runs at 2800 RPM nominal
The motor has a 10 tooth drive cog belt pulley
The water pump has a 28 tooth cobg belt pulley
So.. the water pump turns at 1000 RPM
With that in mind I went with the 8 blade water pump, no restriction at the thermostat housing, a flow restrictor w/ 3/8" hole in the bypass hose.
I added an 'idler' to provide better contact of a couple of extra cog teeth engagement.
Seems good but the real test will be 'hot lapping' round robin style as that's what this car is built to do.
moparstud440
Well-Known Member
We've ran the Moroso style water pumps for years. Atleast 25+, as I don't remember when dad installed it on the car. We've always ran a gutted thermostat. We do use the larger diameter pulley on the motor on 3 of the 4 cars we use them on. The 4th one seems to do okay without the larger diameter pulley. We have Champion 3 or 4 row alum radiators in the cars with a 16" electric fan. For my car I usually try to pull into the water box around 140-145, by the time I stage car will be 160 and rarely see's over 200 at any given point. The only time it goes above 200 is on 90+ degree days and I putts back to the pits after a run. Takes only a few mins to cool the car down for another run. Key to this setup is not to have the belt to tight. When you make the belt tight it makes it harder for the motor to start. We've ran these on Big block and small block combos. Beats the heck out of the high dollar water pumps. My father in law replaces them about every 2-3 years and even buys the good ones. In the last 20 years I've had to replace 1 motor.
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