MuuMuu101's 68 Dart, A Learning Process...

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Yeah, what I like about Autozone was they had a warranty, but I'll look around.

Hey nothing wrong with that, with the way QC goes on electric stuff like that a warranty is worth paying some extra money for. And being able to return it in person is a big plus too.
 
Good news: Got the new starter. It is physically smaller than the old one, looks to be built well, weighs 1.8 lbs less, and has a partition for the power and 12V cables so no shorts.

Bad news: I need a larger terminal for the 12V cable as this one is a little larger.

Good news: I'll pick up a terminal at work tomorrow.

On a side note: I did notice that the old starter had slop in the gear shaft whereas the new starter was tight. So my guess is the solenoid was going out.

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Maybe bad news. I think you will need to remove the so called partition or cover over the terminals as it may interfere w/the headers, pending which ones you have. Common problem but minor. Maybe if you remove it, you won't need a larger terminal.
 
Maybe bad news. I think you will need to remove the so called partition or cover over the terminals as it may interfere w/the headers, pending which ones you have. Common problem but minor. Maybe if you remove it, you won't need a larger terminal.

So, I checked the clearance between the starter and the headers, and I have about 2.5 fingers of room between the header and the closest stud. When the shop installed my engine, they installed it quite a bit forward, plus I have TTi shorty headers. Also, one of the holes is larger than the 7/16" bolt (9/16" hole to be exact) so I took some measurements and found a $1.14 bushing from McMaster to fit in the starter and prevent slop (McMaster P/N 9368T143 9/16" OD, 7/16" ID, 0.5" Long - McMaster-Carr). I also got some terminals from work, so that should work out well.
 
I like your new starter, it looks like a mini /mini. I could use a shorter version of the mini.
 
I like your new starter, it looks like a mini /mini. I could use a shorter version of the mini.

Yeah, I like it a lot. It seems well built. I think the old starter was made of steel whereas this was made from aluminum. Definitely a difference in weight.

Where did you get the new starter and how much?

It's a Duralast 17181. It's $120 at Autozone, about $80 if you turn in a core: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...100936_0?fromString=search&make=&model=&year=
 
So, I installed my starter and the car started right up! The oil was also a little low so I added 3/4 a quart. I still feel like I'm hearing noises, but maybe I'm crazy.

 
There’s definitely some noise(s) going on there, but hard to diagnose from a video. Glad to see the starting issue seems to have been taken care of though.
 
I know it's probably been said, but man it sure does sound like torque converter bolts coming out or the head of the bolts rubbing on something.
 
Still to me sounds back by the bell housing. Take the boot off the clutch fork and put the camera there and see if the sound is really loud...any thing is possible, thanks for straightening me out on the trans though.
 
He can eliminate a lot of guessing by narrowing down where the sound is coming from by using a stethoscope or long screwdriver/pry bar. It’s hard to figure out when the sound bounces off the garage floor, against the firewall, bottom of the hood, etc. and really makes it a pain to find the source sometimes.
 
So, it's been a couple weeks since I've posted as I've been dealing with a big family trauma. A little over a week ago, my fiance's mom passed away due to Stage 4 metastatic Breast Cancer. It originated approximately 5 years ago, after a year and a half of treatment it stopped growing, about a year and a half ago the cancer scars started acting up in other organs and attacking the body again. She passed away about 5.5 months before our wedding. So, it's been a very sad time. I'm trying to be there for my fiance and her family as much as possible. Because of this, I've had no time/energy to do anything.

Today was the first time I actually got to look at the Dart and I decided to take it out for a drive. I drove it for 30 mins (22 miles) and didn't really push it hard. There was no "driving" issues that I could tell. I did get it up to 4000 RPM on two occasions and 5000 RPM on another. All 3 pulls were at about 1/4 throttle. On a side note, the Helmholtz resonators need quite a bit of time before they start working. For the first 20 minutes the drone was still there, but as the exhaust got to operating temperature, it quieted way down. I just thought that was interesting.

However, I'm pretty sure I've isolated the "gear noise." I'm pretty sure it's the throwout bearing (again). The "gear noise" was present in neutral. I got out of the car and pushed the clutch pedal down with my hand and listened under the car and the noise went away. I remember it did something similar right before my last throwout bearing burst, but last time it sounded way worse. I don't know how I feel about this. I don't think it's something I'd like to tackle on my own as I'd have to remove the entire trans and exhaust; however, due to the wedding and buying a new house, I don't really want to spend the money on a shop. Luckily, my pre-marital pastor referred me to a good shop semi-closeby.

So, that's been my life up to this point. I discussed this with my fiance. The plan was to take the Dart to Fall Fling. I'm not sure now. And if I do, it's doubtful it will have its new leaf springs and Holley Sniper installed as it's still sitting in boxes.
 
IMO, bite the bullet and do the throw-out bearing yourself. If you are gonna own and drive a Mopar hot rod, may I suggest you learn how to enjoy doing your own work....even the hard stuff.

After you complete ...Throwout Bearing Replacement 101....you will have the confidence to do anything. Important tip, wear throw away clothes, the trans fluid is stinky stuff.
 
I agree. Get that thing on some jack stands and change that throw out bearing. It's not too bad, should take ya half a day. Do you have a cherry picker (engine hoist)? That'll help.

Order your new throw out bearing..is it hydraulic? I forget.
Once you get that done you can swap in your leaf springs.

Wait on the fuel injection so you can drive it to the fall fling.
I hope ya get it sorted out. I'll be at the fall fling, I'd like to check it out.
 
IMO, bite the bullet and do the throw-out bearing yourself. If you are gonna own and drive a Mopar hot rod, may I suggest you learn how to enjoy doing your own work....even the hard stuff.

After you complete ...Throwout Bearing Replacement 101....you will have the confidence to do anything. Important tip, wear throw away clothes, the trans fluid is stinky stuff.

I agree. Get that thing on some jack stands and change that throw out bearing. It's not too bad, should take ya half a day. Do you have a cherry picker (engine hoist)? That'll help.

Order your new throw out bearing..is it hydraulic? I forget.
Once you get that done you can swap in your leaf springs.

Wait on the fuel injection so you can drive it to the fall fling.
I hope ya get it sorted out. I'll be at the fall fling, I'd like to check it out.

I just talked to the shop that was referred to me and explained to him what had happened. He didn't think it was a bad throwout bearing at all. He suspects it is low on trans fluid. That seems to be the logical thing to check first instead of pulling the transmission out and buying a $400 part. So, I'll try to do that Sunday... or whenever I have free time.
 
I find that hard to believe based on your diagnosis of when you put a small amount of pressure on the pedal the noise decreased.

But that is just me ....thousands of miles away.
 
I find that hard to believe based on your diagnosis of when you put a small amount of pressure on the pedal the noise decreased.

But that is just me ....thousands of miles away.

It wasn't a small amount of pressure. It would go away only during full-engagement of the clutch pedal. I have strong arms. He said that if it was a throwout bearing problem that I'd have problems or hear noises while shifting or driving which I didn't have any problems with. He said the noise could be from the clutch discs engaging with one another until the clutch pedal is pressed and they become disengaged. It's a street/strip clutch from Centerforce. Anyway, checking the transmission oil is a good first step. If the noise doesn't go away, then I will explore a throwout bearing or possible other issues.
 
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when you depress the clutch pedal the gears/shafts come to a stop inside the trans so if they're noisy due to low fluid level the noise will stop.
neil.

The noise disappears when I depress the clutch pedal.
 
My money is still on the throwout bearing. Be nice if it is only low fluid, but I highly doubt it.

If it is rattling / growling in neutral......I do not think more fluid is gonna cure it. Might help it, but more than likely gonna need some new parts.

if you get lucky ....do not hesitate, buy some lotto tickets while you are hot.
 
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Been busy between life stuff and wedding stuff but I finally got around to adding some Trans fluid to the car. It still has that noise I've been talking about but since I've been diagnosing all of the Dart's problems I've driven the car 3 times for approximately 50 miles without any indication of an issue (including 13 miles today). In a week and a half I'll take it to a shop and have them listen to it.
 
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