My 360 build

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dartfreak75 said:
Its funny you mentioned tires because i have been doing a lot of research on them the last few days. I may end up moving the springs in later. I have to replace the leaf springs eventually when I do I may move them inward depending on how much traction issues I have. I measured and about the widest I can go now is 235s I think if I can get the tuning down its gonna be a strong engine. I forgot to mention the rest of the combo. I got a neutral balance flywheel and a boss hog converter it's their street series it's like a 2200 stall I believe. And a 999 torqueflight with 3.73 rear gears
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I run 235/60R15's MT ET streets on the back of my 360 Duster. Let me tell ya, they hook!
 
318willrun said:
I run 235/60R15's MT ET streets on the back of my 360 Duster. Let me tell ya, they hook!
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How do they do on the street as far as everyday driving? I plan on driving this car to work and stuff like that so there maybe days its driven in the rain or wet dewy roads etc.
 
dartfreak75 said:
How do they do on the street as far as everyday driving? I plan on driving this car to work and stuff like that so there maybe days its driven in the rain or wet dewy roads etc.
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Great on dry roads, real smooth. I really don't recommend any drag radial for wet roads, their print is wide for traction. Perhaps have normal radials the same size for everyday, and drag radials for play time?? :)
 
318willrun said:
Great on dry roads, real smooth. I really don't recommend any drag radial for wet roads, their print is wide for traction. Perhaps have normal radials the same size for everyday, and drag radials for play time?? :)
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Yea that's what I was thinking also. I would like to find a happy medium. I complete set of rallies I'm gonna redo eventually maybe I could put my driver tires on them and my play tires on the steelies.
 
I do have a question for you. When setting your timing what are the signs you look for to know what you need to do? For example let's say I'm at 12 initial and 32 advance (just throwing number out there) what would you look for to know if you need to add it back it off?
 
Slower times at the strip.
For a hot street car, I recommend 20* to start and a mechanical at 34/36 for your iron heads. You can work it downwards at the track and look for improvement. If you can get away with more initial, go for it. It just makes the mechanical advance shorter and therefore quicker.
 
DO you plan on riding your family around in that car? If so, no way would I run a drag radial on the street.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I do have a question for you. When setting your timing what are the signs you look for to know what you need to do? For example let's say I'm at 12 initial and 32 advance (just throwing number out there) what would you look for to know if you need to add it back it off?
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Not sure if this question was for me, but I'll try to answer it. For initial, I have it idling about 700 rpm's with no vacuum advance. I bump the timing up (advance) about 3 degrees. Did the rpm's pick up? If so, back the idle (at the carb) down to 700 rpm's again and bump another 3 degrees. Same thing. When it doesn't pick up any rpm's, then go back to the last setting where it did. Then, the car needs to be fully warmed up - shut it off and let it sit for about 2 minutes. Then, restart and if it kicks back at the starter, pull about 2 degrees out (retard) and see if it kicks back again. If it does, pull another degree out till it doesn't kick back. For total, it will be just where your car performs the best. could be 33* or could be 38* for example. Same true with the recurve at what RPM the full advancement kicks in, meaning where it performs the best. And ALWAYS be listening for detonation
 
That above is what I was eluding to. Once you find out how much initial your engine takes without the starter kicking back when you try to start it, then work on the mechanical. Find out where it is stock, which is probably way to much and then start backing it down but by bit. Open chambered iron heads seem to like more advance.
Then work on the vacuum advance limits. That will be around 52*’s.

The engine will really respond to this & the car will just jump when you mash the pedal.
 
I see you are working in the same "garage" that I did for 40+ years. I often had to shovel snow to get to my car.

Kudos to you reusing the Mopar rods and crank...good stuff.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Thanks that looks really good. That's the look I'm going for I want it to look completely stock but run a little better than stock. I know in 1975 the 360s where pretty weak due to emissions and low compression. I wish I could find a correct set of 75 valve overs the ones I have are off a 69 340. Most ppl will never tell a difference and the ppl who can will probably just think it's a 340 engine lol i like the original appearance I have also decided to go with exhaust manifolds instead of headers just to keep the original look going. I bought a super nice snorkel air cleaner off of a member here it's a 2bbl cleaner but I am gonna try and modify the bottom to fit a 4 bbl that's gonna be a later project but I'm gonna buy just the bottom of a 4bbl cleaner and cut weld and fab it into the bottom of the 2bbl cleaner.
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I have some stock valve covers, but I'm not sure what year they are. I will do my best to look and see if any are close to the year you want.
 
318willrun said:
Not sure if this question was for me, but I'll try to answer it. For initial, I have it idling about 700 rpm's with no vacuum advance. I bump the timing up (advance) about 3 degrees. Did the rpm's pick up? If so, back the idle (at the carb) down to 700 rpm's again and bump another 3 degrees. Same thing. When it doesn't pick up any rpm's, then go back to the last setting where it did. Then, the car needs to be fully warmed up - shut it off and let it sit for about 2 minutes. Then, restart and if it kicks back at the starter, pull about 2 degrees out (retard) and see if it kicks back again. If it does, pull another degree out till it doesn't kick back. For total, it will be just where your car performs the best. could be 33* or could be 38* for example. Same true with the recurve at what RPM the full advancement kicks in, meaning where it performs the best. And ALWAYS be listening for detonation
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That's awesome stuff thank you. Ok 2 more stupid questions lol 1, what do you mean by starter kick back? 2, how do you adjust the total without changing the initial?
 
dartfreak75 said:
That's awesome stuff thank you. Ok 2 more stupid questions lol 1, what do you mean by starter kick back? 2, how do you adjust the total without changing the initial?
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  1. starter kick back is when you go to start and it acts like the starter dragged for a second.
  2. You have to limit the amount of mechanical advancement in the distributor by closing the slots. The two weights swing out by centrifugal force and springs return them. You can weld the slots, or, use a FBO ignition plate. FBO allows you to go 2* at a time. Really nice and affordable
  3. The spring tension is what determines at what RPM you get your full advancement.
 
Krooser said:
I see you are working in the same "garage" that I did for 40+ years. I often had to shovel snow to get to my car.

Kudos to you reusing the Mopar rods and crank...good stuff.
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Yea I'm working off the back deck and storing the engine in my laundry room. My wife isnt happy about that at all! Haha my tailgate on my old truck is my work bench and tool storage. Haha someday I hope to have a garage. Yea I wanted to keep it as original and "basic" as possible I wanted it to be a mopar engine like they was intended to be. I didn't want "scat" rods and "stroker" cranks and all that stuff just more money and more to worry about. My goal isnt a set ET or to have the fastest car I want a reliable strong running engine and I think mopar knows best.
 
Starter kick back is when the starter has a very hard time turning over which should not ever be the case and sometimes you can hear the starter struggle so much that it actually has a kick back like its “Kicking Back.” The resistance is to much and SPRING! It “Kicks.”

The adjustment(s) are the slots that the mechanical weights slide in. You can get a plate limiter from FBO @ foursecondsflat.com.

An adjustable vacuum can is needed to limit the vacuum timing and limit the slot to limit the amount.
 
318willrun said:
  1. starter kick back is when you go to start and it acts like the starter dragged for a second.
  2. You have to limit the amount of mechanical advancement in the distributor by closing the slots. The two weights swing out by centrifugal force and springs return them. You can weld the slots, or, use a FBO ignition plate. FBO allows you to go 2* at a time. Really nice and affordable
  3. The spring tension is what determines at what RPM you get your full advancement.
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So once you get the initial set you no long turn the distributor it's all inside springs and things! Lol I'm gonna have to take a look at my dissy this is something iv never done. I have set the timing before but I always just set them at initial and went with it. I have been looking at different timing lights and stuff. I have to get one and I guess I need one of those tapes that go around the balancer.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Starter kick back is when the starter has a very hard time turning over which should not ever be the case and sometimes you can hear the starter struggle so much that it actually has a kick back like its “Kicking Back.” The resistance is to much and SPRING! It “Kicks.”

The adjustment(s) are the slots that the mechanical weights slide in. You can get a plate limiter from FBO @ foursecondsflat.com.

An adjustable vacuum can is needed to limit the vacuum timing and limit the slot to limit the amount.
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Thanks man awesome stuff I appreciate it!
So what makes the starter kick back like that? Maybe where the fuel is building up without getting burnt or something?
 
If the starter kicks back with the timing that the motor wants at idle, you can wire in a toggle switch for the ignition only. A couple ruh ruhs of the starter and flip the switch.
 
dartfreak75 said:
So once you get the initial set you no long turn the distributor it's all inside springs and things! Lol I'm gonna have to take a look at my dissy this is something iv never done. I have set the timing before but I always just set them at initial and went with it. I have been looking at different timing lights and stuff. I have to get one and I guess I need one of those tapes that go around the balancer.
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i usually find where it wants to be at full advance. lets just use 36*. Then i set the initial, lets just say 21*. Your difference is 16*, so that is what you allow the mechanical advance to be. IF using the FBO plate, use the 16* slot and your set. Then you set what RPM you get your total advance with the springs.
 
318willrun said:
i usually find where it wants to be at full advance. lets just use 36*. Then i set the initial, lets just say 21*. Your difference is 16*, so that is what you allow the mechanical advance to be. IF using the FBO plate, use the 16* slot and your set. Then you set what RPM you get your total advance with the springs.
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Thanks as always that's good info I looked up the plate your talking about. I may go ahead and order one.
https://www.manciniracing.com/fbomodilipl.html
 
318willrun said:
i usually find where it wants to be at full advance. lets just use 36*. Then i set the initial, lets just say 21*. Your difference is 16*, so that is what you allow the mechanical advance to be. IF using the FBO plate, use the 16* slot and your set. Then you set what RPM you get your total advance with the springs.
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dartfreak75 said:
Thanks as always that's good info I looked up the plate your talking about. I may go ahead and order one.
FBO Mopar Distributor Limiter Plate
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Since I am cheap, here is how I do it. I drill out (you have to go easy, and have it clamped down good.) and tap one side of the advance plate for a 1/4" pipe plug. I put the plug in with loctite and grind it almost flush on both sides.
I then drill to size using this chart. Note, only do 1 side or it doesn't work right.

Modifying advance slots
degrees / slot size Double for Crank Degrees. I usually start with a 19/64 , or 5/16 drill bit. For 4 or 5 degrees (8 or 10 crank)
6.............. .340
7................355
8................375
9................390
10...............405
11.5 ...........420
12...............435
13...............445
14...............460
15...............475
16...............490
17...............505
18...............520

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