My 360 build

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Since I am cheap, here is how I do it. I drill out (you have to go easy, and have it clamped down good.) and tap one side of the advance plate for a 1/4" pipe plug. I put the plug in with loctite and grind it almost flush on both sides.
I then drill to size using this chart. Note, only do 1 side or it doesn't work right.

Modifying advance slots
degrees / slot size
6.............. .340
7................355
8................375
9................390
10...............405
11.5 ...........420
12...............435
13...............445
14...............460
15...............475
16...............490
17...............505
18...............520

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Sam
You really need to work on your picture uploading. Lol
 
Got the correct cam plug put in got the lifter bores cleaned really good and checked them all for any tight spots they slide in and out perfectly smooth. Got the cam put back in working on the rear main seal now.

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Yea I'm working off the back deck and storing the engine in my laundry room. My wife isnt happy about that at all! Haha my tailgate on my old truck is my work bench and tool storage. Haha someday I hope to have a garage. Yea I wanted to keep it as original and "basic" as possible I wanted it to be a mopar engine like they was intended to be. I didn't want "scat" rods and "stroker" cranks and all that stuff just more money and more to worry about. My goal isnt a set ET or to have the fastest car I want a reliable strong running engine and I think mopar knows best.
Well you and I see eyey to eye on a lot of this build.

I have to admit I bought some pre-owned ( sounds better than used) Crower billet rods to replace the fresh 340 numbers I had intended to use on my 388 race motor but I still have a Mopar block, head's, crank, rockers and intake. And all but the water.pump are home grown right here in the USA.

If your other sources fail I have a set of 1976 covers from a 360 truck if you need them.
 
Got the correct cam plug put in got the lifter bores cleaned really good and checked them all for any tight spots they slide in and out perfectly smooth. Got the cam put back in working on the rear main seal now.

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You need to remove the oil filter adapter plate and drill the extra holes in it while you can get to it easily.
 
You need to remove the oil filter adapter plate and drill the extra holes in it while you can get to it easily.
Yea I plan on it just havent gotten around to it yet. I have a question about that. With the extra holes will that require a HV oil pump or will a standard one still work ok? I have a melling M72 I don't think it's a high velocity or anything like that
 
Yea I plan on it just havent gotten around to it yet. I have a question about that. With the extra holes will that require a HV oil pump or will a standard one still work ok? I have a melling M72 I don't think it's a high velocity or anything like that

The standard pump will love you for it. You don't want to have the plate restricting the oil flow into the block.
 
Yea I'm working off the back deck and storing the engine in my laundry room. My wife isnt happy about that at all! Haha my tailgate on my old truck is my work bench and tool storage. Haha someday I hope to have a garage. Yea I wanted to keep it as original and "basic" as possible I wanted it to be a mopar engine like they was intended to be. I didn't want "scat" rods and "stroker" cranks and all that stuff just more money and more to worry about. My goal isnt a set ET or to have the fastest car I want a reliable strong running engine and I think mopar knows best.

I'm going OEM and DC on my Hillbilly 340.

Factory 340 block, crank, rods, 915 heads, 6 pac intake and .060 TRW 10.5 factory replacement pistons.
DC 500 cfm 6 pac carbs, 508 purple stripe cam and ignition.
All Mopar available in its day.
 
I'm going OEM and DC on my Hillbilly 340.

Factory 340 block, crank, rods, 915 heads, 6 pac intake and .060 TRW 10.5 factory replacement pistons.
DC 500 cfm 6 pac carbs, 508 purple stripe cam and ignition.
All Mopar available in its day.
I like that build sounds like a stout motor.
 
Crank put in I still have to torque it to spec but it turns freely by hand. I put some rtv around the rear main and then some more on top. I used some speed pro assembly lube that stuff is gummy. I like it!

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Got them mains torqued to 100 lbs still turns freely looking good
 
Did you put rtv between the rear cap and the block?
Did you set the center cap before tightening the caps down?
 
Cam and plate on. You can see the little hole I drilled to oil the timing chain

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