My 422 smallblock build

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I think it’s pretty humorous how worked up some people get about what someone else wants to use for parts in their car.

Can’t do this, that won’t work, etc.

Just let the guy build his car, his own way.
 
PRH said:
I think it’s pretty humorous how worked up some people get about what someone else wants to use for parts in their car.

Can’t do this, that won’t work, etc.

Just let the guy build his car, his own way.
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That's rich... Bahahaha...
 
mopfried said:
I'm following this pretty closely as i'm in the planning stages of about the same build.. I like the spec on that cam.. Do you think that a throttle body fuel injection would work on a cam like that? I have read all the post as they have been posted but don't remember you posting about your fuel system.
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It would depend on the system. I've been eyeing a very similar cam for my car, with a 400(406") B engine, but ground on 112 CL, as I've got a dual quad EZ-EFI 1.0 system.
 
PRH said:
I think it’s pretty humorous how worked up some people get about what someone else wants to use for parts in their car.

Can’t do this, that won’t work, etc.

Just let the guy build his car, his own way.
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I’ve been very lucky buying used roller Cams from guys that they didn’t work for about 1/3 the cost of new. I’ll be looking for a 600-620 lift roller cam in the near future. Duration looks a little low for my use on that one.
 
PRH said:
I think it’s pretty humorous how worked up some people get about what someone else wants to use for parts in their car.

Can’t do this, that won’t work, etc.

Just let the guy build his car, his own way.
Click to expand...
Well, it IS a discussion board.:drama: Since the whole planet is on lockdown people are getting cabin fever. :mob: Just take what you need and leave the rest.
 
I have no problem with honest conversation when all parties involved are respectful and mature. There is a vast amount of knowledge within the membership of this forum and I want to learn as much as possible. Besides, I did ask for advice, opinions, and personal experiences.
What I don’t care for is the “Do it this way and buy these parts or you’ll just regret it, dumbass”. That’s all said in context as I haven’t felt that has been said here, yet.
There has been a little more off-topic chatter than I like in this thread just as there is in most threads that go this long. I know it’s part of the game but it just muddies up the thread and makes it more difficult to read through in the future. This post included.
Ok, rant over, carry on.
 
Oh yeah, I did order the cam and an oil pump drive from Summit but first I did some shopping around and found better prices elsewhere. I called Summit and they beat the other prices by like $1. Just an FYI.
 
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Off topic again but man my sons stock crank 360 loved this cam. I wanted to go bigger to take advantage of my heads but this is as big as I could squeeze in with the JE pistons. His car at 3200 pounds ran 6.54 five different times throughout the year till a comp roller lifter with 50 passes on broke and trashed the engine. Major bummer. I bought this cam used for 90.00
 
SSG_Karg said:
Oh yeah, I did order the cam and an oil pump drive from Summit but first I did some shopping around and found better prices elsewhere. I called Summit and they beat the other prices by like $1. Just an FYI.
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I hope that it was a beefed up pump drive. I think I saw high volume pump further back.
 
pittsburghracer said:
View attachment 1715508874 Off topic again but man my sons stock crank 360 loved this cam. I wanted to go bigger to take advantage of my heads but this is as big as I could squeeze in with the JE pistons. His car at 3200 pounds ran 6.54 five different times throughout the year till a comp roller lifter with 50 passes on broke and trashed the engine. Major bummer. I bought this cam used for 90.00
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That looks like a dandy John. 1 or 2 steps above the Howards I ordered but still in the ballpark. Yours has the lift that I was looking for but 10* more duration @ .050. Let me know when you’re ready to sell it to me for $90!
 
SSG_Karg said:
Yep. Designed especially for roller cam with HV pump. Check out this page from Summit Racing Milodon Oil Pump Driveshafts 21535
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I bought that drive to use with the solid roller in my 434. While holding the shaft and spinning it in my hand I could see the gear wobble on the shaft. Chucking it up in my lathe showed .016" run out about two thirds out from center on the gear. I called Milodon and was told .003" max, so I sent it back and spent the extra money on the Mopar shaft. I checked it in my lathe and it had .002" run out.

Maybe I just got a bad one?
 
justinp61 said:
I bought that drive to use with the solid roller in my 434. While holding the shaft and spinning it in my hand I could see the gear wobble on the shaft. Chucking it up in my lathe showed .016" run out about two thirds out from center on the gear. I called Milodon and was told .003" max, so I sent it back and spent the extra money on the Mopar shaft. I checked it in my lathe and it had .002" run out.

Maybe I just got a bad one?
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Thanks for the feedback. I’ll be sure to check it out real close. Haven’t even taken it out of the package yet.
 
Santa Cams dropped off a little treasure this morning! Now for my first attempt at degreeing a camshaft. Yippee!

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Checked for runout on the pump drive- none. Dead nuts. Dropped it in the block and it fits perfectly. Nice snug fit in the pump socket also.
 
Just my opinion, but I’d stick that in at 106. That is actually split overlap (centered overlap triangle) and as long as the headers are good, it will make more power there.

Again, just my opinion

mgispeedware.com and enter your numbers and you can see what I mean.
 
FYI, a piece of 3” exhaust tube is perfect for driving the crank snout seal into the timing cover. You’re welcome.

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yellow rose said:
Just my opinion, but I’d stick that in at 106. That is actually split overlap (centered overlap triangle) and as long as the headers are good, it will make more power there.
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Could you elaborate some on this. I went to the website you mentioned and input my numbers but I’m not sure I understand how to interpret the info. My timing set is adjustable up to 8 degrees each way so putting it in 2 degrees retarded would be easy.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Could you elaborate some on this. I went to the website you mentioned and input my numbers but I’m not sure I understand how to interpret the info. My timing set is adjustable up to 8 degrees each way so putting it in 2 degrees retarded would be easy.
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Put in all your info into the program and then add the 4 degrees advance where it asks for it and look at the “overlap triangle” where the exhaust closing side of the lobe crosses the opening side of the intake lobe at TDC.

IMO (and the opinion of others) when you are looking for the best power and you have good headers and such, you don’t want the intake lobe crossing the exhaust lobe before TDC.

When I did your numbers, at 4 degrees advance the triangle was ahead of the TDC line. At O degrees (what I call straight up) the cam is slightly retarded. But...at 2 degrees advance the triangle is centered.

I’ll see if I can post up the stuff here, but I doubt I can.
 
SSG
first I would get hold of Howard and nail down in writing if they want you to install your cam using the center of a presumably asymetrcal lobe i.e 104 Intake Centerline
OR
do they what you to use "for timing only" numbers off the cam card ie. Intake closes 46.5 at.050
which could differ by say 4 degrees (try both and see)
and ask them at what lift "advertised is" most likely .020 but could be different their lobe catalog might show
now
With what YR said
you would not be retarding your cam by 2 degrees
Your cam is most likely ground with 4 degrees built in
so you are advancing your cam 2 degrees instead of 4
What I would do
If your compression and dynamic compression is near the max go ahead and install it straight up or 2 degrees
if your compression and dynamic compression is on the low side then install it 4 degrees advanced (dot to dot cough cough)
YR, as usual, brings up some good points
Another thing he preaches, and which I agree, is to use the strongest pushrods that will fit even with a little grinding they are long relatively (and funny angles)
I also like "oil through the pushrods"
 
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