My 422 smallblock build

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12many said:
Run an 8 vane water pump, move that coolant! Keeping the coolant in the block longer to draw the heat out is hogwash. Less restriction faster flow.
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IMHO, the PRW pump is the best I’ve seen yet with the actual volute pump body and the cast iron impeller. That is, except for tapping the cover and using a pair of -16 lines to an external electric water pump. But we’re going way outside the realm of what would be needed almost anywhere with that Frankenstein rig.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
IMHO, the PRW pump is the best I’ve seen yet with the actual volute pump body and the cast iron impeller. That is, except for tapping the cover and using a pair of -16 lines to an external electric water pump. But we’re going way outside the realm of what would be needed almost anywhere with that Frankenstein rig.
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That's what I've got. It's nice also because you can block off the heater hoses with a plug if you don't need them.
 
Update
So after mocking up the rocker arms on the W2 heads it was obvious that some massaging was going to be necessary. I contacted Mike @ B3 Racing Engines about taking on the daunting task of correcting this hodgepodge of mismatched parts and getting things “right”. I had worked with Mike on a previous project and knew he was well qualified for the job.
After initial inspection, it was determined that since these heads were actually two different versions of W2s, they would each require different adjustments to get the geometry corrected. These heads were both born as Econos, with the cast pedestals, but I had the pedestals machined off in order to run blocks as the race heads do. Well it turns out that one head was originally a long valve version and one was not. Therefore they were machined differently at the factory and now requied different blocks between the two heads. One head requires the on-center blocks and the other requires the offset-drilled blocks. After Mike figured that out, I ordered the appropriate blocks from Angelucci Mfg (fantastic company!) and Mike commenced to correcting a previously done poor valve job and bowl clean up.
After getting the heads back from B3, I installed them on the short block and proceeded to measure for pushrods. I used a TrickFlow adjustable length checker and set the rocker adjusters to approximately 1-2 threads showing, set lash and got my length. I sent the adjustable pushrod off to Smith Brothers to have a set made up.

BF01936D-03E1-48F0-899D-DAB1368391B7.jpeg


817F61D5-4732-411D-926B-FFBB2296E8D3.jpeg
 
I love everything about that picture. Even the cardboard catch pan!
 
SSG_Karg said:
Update
So after mocking up the rocker arms on the W2 heads it was obvious that some massaging was going to be necessary. I contacted Mike @ B3 Racing Engines about taking on the daunting task of correcting this hodgepodge of mismatched parts and getting things “right”. I had worked with Mike on a previous project and knew he was well qualified for the job.
After initial inspection, it was determined that since these heads were actually two different versions of W2s, they would each require different adjustments to get the geometry corrected. These heads were both born as Econos, with the cast pedestals, but I had the pedestals machined off in order to run blocks as the race heads do. Well it turns out that one head was originally a long valve version and one was not. Therefore they were machined differently at the
factory and now requied different blocks between the two heads. One head requires the on-center blocks and the other requires the offset-drilled blocks. After Mike figured that out, I ordered the appropriate blocks from Angelucci Mfg (fantastic company!) and Mike commenced to correcting a previously done poor valve job and bowl clean up.
After getting the heads back from B3, I installed them on the short block and proceeded to measure for pushrods. I used a TrickFlow adjustable length checker and set the rocker adjusters to approximately 1-2 threads showing, set lash and got my length. I sent the adjustable pushrod off to Smith Brothers to have a set made up.

View attachment 1715879197

View attachment 1715879198
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Mike has done as much or more for Mopar valve train geometry than about anyone else I know of. No one should build an engine that has parts from different manufacturers without using Mike’s correction kits. Or in a case like yours his knowledge and ability to unscrew things. On top of all that he is just a nice guy, willing to help with about anything you can think of.

One exception to the above would be using Trick Flow heads and the rockers they built the heads around. In this case you can bolt a set of Mancini rockers on the TF heads and be about as good as it gets.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Update
So after mocking up the rocker arms on the W2 heads it was obvious that some massaging was going to be necessary. I contacted Mike @ B3 Racing Engines about taking on the daunting task of correcting this hodgepodge of mismatched parts and getting things “right”. I had worked with Mike on a previous project and knew he was well qualified for the job.
After initial inspection, it was determined that since these heads were actually two different versions of W2s, they would each require different adjustments to get the geometry corrected. These heads were both born as Econos, with the cast pedestals, but I had the pedestals machined off in order to run blocks as the race heads do. Well it turns out that one head was originally a long valve version and one was not. Therefore they were machined differently at the factory and now requied different blocks between the two heads. One head requires the on-center blocks and the other requires the offset-drilled blocks. After Mike figured that out, I ordered the appropriate blocks from Angelucci Mfg (fantastic company!) and Mike commenced to correcting a previously done poor valve job and bowl clean up.
After getting the heads back from B3, I installed them on the short block and proceeded to measure for pushrods. I used a TrickFlow adjustable length checker and set the rocker adjusters to approximately 1-2 threads showing, set lash and got my length. I sent the adjustable pushrod off to Smith Brothers to have a set made up.

View attachment 1715879197

View attachment 1715879198
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Looks great! Mike is a heck of a guy as well. Can't wait to see this puppy in action.
 
That was the right way to get what you had to work with sorted out.

It’s interesting that the left/right intake rockers look different from each other.
Probably a different “generation” of parts.

84C056DA-E4ED-49DB-8EEF-E7A611952271.png
 
Rat Bastid said:
Mike has done as much or more for Mopar valve train geometry than about anyone else I know of. No one should build an engine that has parts from different manufacturers without using Mike’s correction kits. Or in a case like yours his knowledge and ability to unscrew things. On top of all that he is just a nice guy, willing to help with about anything you can think of.

One exception to the above would be using Trick Flow heads and the rockers they built the heads around. In this case you can bolt a set of Mancini rockers on the TF heads and be about as good as it gets.
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These?

Mancini Racing Aluminum Roller Rocker Arm Kit
 
PRH said:
That was the right way to get what you had to work with sorted out.

It’s interesting that the left/right intake rockers look different from each other.
Probably a different “generation” of parts.

View attachment 1715879354
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The only other way I knew to do it Duane, was to relocate the bolt holes on one head, and then deal with the oiling hole for the rocker gear. I didn't want to get into that, especially with all the other work they needed, so the different stands was the logical way forward.

The rockers are quite a story themselves, but I'll let Jim tell it if he wants to.
 
PRH said:
It’s interesting that the left/right intake rockers look different from each other.
Probably a different “generation” of parts.
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Hahaha! Yeah, turns out that this motor is like an orphanage for forgotten bastard rocker arms! They were scrounged up from 3 different sources (all members of the forum I believe) over time. Yes, the left and right intakes are different and the exhaust rockers are also a different generation/brand/style. And aside from the 4 left intakes that appear to be NOS, the valve pads on the rest were pretty roached and Mike did a phenomenal job of renewing the radius on them.

B3RE said:
The rockers are quite a story themselves, but I'll let Jim tell it if he wants to.
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You really made a silk purse out of a sow’s ear Mike!
 
Does anyone happen to know if there were multiple manufacturers of the iron W2 arms? Or did they all come from Direct Connection?
 
SSG_Karg said:
Does anyone happen to know if there were multiple manufacturers of the iron W2 arms? Or did they all come from Direct Connection?
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As far as I can tell, the only source for those rockers was DC/MP. I’m not sure how many different vendors they used to make them. Many wouldn’t use them because they didn’t have a roller tip. That never bothered me.
 
Rat Bastid said:
As far as I can tell, the only source for those rockers was DC/MP. I’m not sure how many different vendors they used to make them. Many wouldn’t use them because they didn’t have a roller tip. That never bothered me.
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Used to be a company making iron rockers with rollers I have article showing them I was shocked nobody on forum had some horted up etc !!!
 
PRH said:
That was the right way to get what you had to work with sorted out.

It’s interesting that the left/right intake rockers look different from each other.
Probably a different “generation” of parts.

View attachment 1715879354
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One is Mopar Performance (Later ) others are Direct Connection ( Earlier ) stuff I have both new in original wrappers
The later MP ones are smoother to the touch also.
 
1Badcolt said:
Used to be a company making iron rockers with rollers I have article showing them I was shocked nobody on forum had some horted up etc !!!
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Ive seen pictures of those, but never had one in my hand. I don’t know why those didn’t make it either other than way too many people thought and think aluminum is the best materiel for a rocker arm. It can be but it isn’t always.
 
If SSG has never checked/measured the rocker ratio on a set of W2’s before, it could be enlightening.
Between the pushrod/lifter angularity and the intake pushrods being “laid sideways”, the net ratio is often over .1 lower than “advertised”(even with a checking spring).
 
PRH said:
If SSG has never checked/measured the rocker ratio on a set of W2’s before, it could be enlightening.
Between the pushrod/lifter angularity and the intake pushrods being “laid sideways”, the net ratio is often over .1 lower than “advertised”(even with a checking spring).
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I’m scared to honestly.
 
You already have a cam, so in your case “iiwii”.

But if you were thinking about changing it down the road, it would be worth knowing what the net rocker ratio(loaded with full spring force) actually is.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Ive seen pictures of those, but never had one in my hand. I don’t know why those didn’t make it either other than way too many people thought and think aluminum is the best materiel for a rocker arm. It can be but it isn’t always.
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Yes u would think even as market is small
W2/W5 they could still be profitable to make such.
 
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