This is the small block setup from CFVj par I have had the same thought of using a turnbuckle for the alternator but I was never able to get it right in my head. Please provide a couple pics of your setup. Thanks in advance
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This is the small block setup from CFVj par I have had the same thought of using a turnbuckle for the alternator but I was never able to get it right in my head. Please provide a couple pics of your setup. Thanks in advance
View attachment 1715681218 View attachment 1715681219 View attachment 1715681221 View attachment 1715681218 View attachment 1715681218 Turning the adjustment threads the rod ends out.
This is the small block setup from CFV
I have looked at that setup before, super clean, unfortunately I dont think it will work with my pre 70 engine arrangement.View attachment 1715681218 View attachment 1715681219 View attachment 1715681221 Turning the adjustment threads the rod ends out.
This is the small block setup from CFV
The short block is complete and bagged for now. I started assembling the W2 heads and ran into a snag with the valve job and rocker geometry. I’m planning to take the heads to Mike at B3 Racing Engines this week sometime to get sorted out. After that I’ll be able to update the thread a little better.Any updates? Your thread has been a good read
I just got a setup from CFV for a belt drive alternator. I’ll mock it up here how it works and send pics. The kit is well worth it but you have to get the CFV pulleys for spacing. I went with a V-belt because I enclosed the water pump impeller (it’s really more of a fan from the factory, whips more coolant than it moves) on a 6 vane pump from the rear and the front, and the 18-3/4 under-drive will help keep it out of cavitation. The more efficient you can make it, the less rpm it needs to do work.
j par I have had the same thought of using a turnbuckle for the alternator but I was never able to get it right in my head. Please provide a couple pics of your setup. Thanks in advance
View attachment 1715681271 View attachment 1715681273
I used this washer which I ordered from Fastenal after measuring the rear flat tips of the impeller. I then cut it in half and flux core welded one half on and then the other onto the flats on the backside of the impeller. I then took a grinding point and cleaned all the welds up. My minimum clearance inside is around .040 or so where the inside of the pump has an irregular surface pattern. Water is pulled in through the center of the washer around the driveshaft and then thrown outward by the vanes (just like in an actual large scale pump, but just cruder). TIG welding it on after pulling the impeller out of the pump would really be the preferred way of doing it. But I’ve tested it on the engine with a belt looped over the Chuck of a drill and spare pulley bolted onto it. It really moves some coolant without a thermostat in the system and the bypass blocked. I’ll add a thermostat if I find out I need one but I’m more concerned with seeing if I can just get it to run cool with 10:1 on iron heads and a 22 inch two core copper and brass radiator, a clutch fan, and a good shroud.
@autoxcuda How did that fit on the cylinder head side?
What is the year a message model that Alt. belongs to?
Thank you! Just in case, I already have a gutted thermostat set up as restrictor, if need be. Guitar Jones has an interesting read on cooling systems as it applies to dirt track racing and a small block Mopar. With the extremes encountered there, he has to restrict coolant through the forward cooling passages in the deck, block the bypass, and run without any type of restriction.View attachment 1715681271 View attachment 1715681273
I used this washer which I ordered from Fastenal after measuring the rear flat tips of the impeller. I then cut it in half and flux core welded one half on and then the other onto the flats on the backside of the impeller. I then took a grinding point and cleaned all the welds up. My minimum clearance inside is around .040 or so where the inside of the pump has an irregular surface pattern. Water is pulled in through the center of the washer around the driveshaft and then thrown outward by the vanes (just like in an actual large scale pump, but just cruder). TIG welding it on after pulling the impeller out of the pump would really be the preferred way of doing it. But I’ve tested it on the engine with a belt looped over the Chuck of a drill and spare pulley bolted onto it. It really moves some coolant without a thermostat in the system and the bypass blocked. I’ll add a thermostat if I find out I need one but I’m more concerned with seeing if I can just get it to run cool with 10:1 on iron heads and a 22 inch two core copper and brass radiator, a clutch fan, and a good shroud.
re the thermostat. you'll often find an engine will run hotter without one, the reason being with no restriction (an open 'stat has a smaller hole than no 'stat) the water is allowed to flow faster. this might seem a good thing but the water 'needs' to be in the radiator long enough to transfer heat which if it flows too fast it can't get done. if you're still struggling with heat try a 'stat with the middle/guts cut out which will be a restriction to slow the flow.
neil.
Thank you! Just in case, I already have a gutted thermostat set up as restrictor, if need be. Guitar Jones has an interesting read on cooling systems as it applies to dirt track racing and a small block Mopar. With the extremes encountered there, he has to restrict coolant through the forward cooling passages in the deck, block the bypass, and run without any type of restriction.
there are readily available water outlet restrictor kits with 'washers' that have different sized holes to let the coolant transfer more or less heat by slowing the flow more or less. here's some examples Water Outlet Restrictors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit RacingThere is no such thing as coolant moving too fast through the radiator. You run a thermostat to set minimum operating temperature.
there are readily available water outlet restrictor kits with 'washers' that have different sized holes to let the coolant transfer more or less heat by slowing the flow more or less. here's some examples Water Outlet Restrictors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
neil.
autoxcuda, is that a plastic fuel filter?View attachment 1715681675
Hey I hear you. I never had an issue with one of those blowing up, cracking or going up in a fireball like you read all over the internet.Yep. Been running them in cars for 30 years.
It’s held away from the manifold secure in place by 3/8” hard lines on either side.
Does NOT have 100% floppy rubber fuel haphazardly routed from the carb to fuel pump. That 19 yo kids used when they swapped to to swap Holley carbs and/or aluminum intakes back in the day.