My 422 smallblock build

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PRH said:
ouch!
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Trust me, with the amount of money I have wasted on this “W2 journey”, I could have bought a complete cnc’d Indy top end ready to bolt on. I crossed the line between crazy and insane long ago. There is no help for me now…….
 
SSG_Karg said:
Trust me, with the amount of money I have wasted on this “W2 journey”, I could have bought a complete cnc’d Indy top end ready to bolt on. I crossed the line between crazy and insane long ago. There is no help for me now…….
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I was wondering about that in my head, but thought it wouldn't be nice to say out loud.

The Indy setup seems expensive until you price out all the parts to build something comparable. I should have bought a set myself, but I nickel and dimed myself instead.
 
TurboGLH said:
I was wondering about that in my head, but thought it wouldn't be nice to say out loud.
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Not gonna hurt my feelings at all, pretty thick hide on me.
TurboGLH said:
he Indy setup seems expensive until you price out all the parts to build something comparable. I should have bought a set myself, but I nickel and dimed myself instead.
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Same here. Hindsight is crystal clear……and usually painful.
 
New cylinder head has been machined, ported, cleaned, painted, assembled, and installed! Valves are lashed, oil primed, and timing set. Ready to drop on the intake and bolt up the accessories. Won’t be long until we hear it rumble now.

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Got everything assembled and ready to fire. Filled the carb bowls pressed record on the camera, turned the key, and…….click. Dead battery. Hahaha!
I had the trickle charger on it all summer and it said it was fully charged. Guess it’s just passed it’s prime. It is 12 years old and had the dreaded white powder all over it. I hooked the big charger up to it and set it 50amp start and hit the key. It fired immediately for about one second on the pump shot so I know it’ll take off.
Stopping by the battery store after work and will see if we can get going tonight.
One thing after another with this cursed *****.

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Mean416 said:
W2s with a dual plane? On a stroker ? Why?
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Madhouse torque while retaining reasonable HP as has been demonstrated here and elsewhere before. This set up can also be found in the winner circle of various countrywide circle tracks.

There is a lack of high performance dual plane intakes for the W2.
The factory offering (on his engine) and a LD-340-W2 (More rare than a Hens tooth) are the only two that I have seen.
 
Mean416 said:
W2s with a dual plane? On a stroker ? Why?
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As Rumble touched on. I’ve gotten some flak over the intake choice but I have a few reasons for putting it on the engine.
First and foremost, this is a street car. Might see a drag strip once a year for some fun. I feel like this intake will make more torque than a single plane due to increased runner length. Second, it compliments the smallish solid roller camshaft choice a little better than a single plane. And lastly, I already had it sitting on the shelf.
I foresee running this combination for a couple years and if I happen to find a good deal on a single plane W2 intake, I may possibly do an intake and cam swap for some comparison.
So although it may seem crazy to most, it fits my application well….for now.
 
SSG_Karg said:
As Rumble touched on. I’ve gotten some flak over the intake choice but I have a few reasons for putting it on the engine.
First and foremost, this is a street car. Might see a drag strip once a year for some fun. I feel like this intake will make more torque than a single plane due to increased runner length. Second, it compliments the smallish solid roller camshaft choice a little better than a single plane. And lastly, I already had it sitting on the shelf.
I foresee running this combination for a couple years and if I happen to find a good deal on a single plane W2 intake, I may possibly do an intake and cam swap for some comparison.
So although it may seem crazy to most, it fits my application well….for now.
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It is indeed an interesting combination.

What converter specs?
 
I dying to know how it runs !
I sold my W2 M1 NOS dual plane but still have an NOS factory cast iron one . Which I would like to have ported and try to make a F.A.S.T class car .

I have searched the net for dyno results or even performance reviews of them to no avail …. Everyone that has run one stops short of describing how they ran .
 
My engine dynoed at 493 HP and 484 tq . I later realized I had 2 quarts too much oil in it ( don’t ask me how ) and # 7 rocker was too loose. I have also been tweeking the carb and can definitely feel more power down low . I can now stab the throttle and spin my M/T drag radials . I have yet to really do a full throttle run because I am busy sorting out all the nigley stuff that happens when you totally disassemble a car and put it back together .
 
SSG_Karg said:
I knew the .060” over was gonna get people excited! I agree that the thicker the bore the better but the machinist that did the boring is a lifelong seriousMopar guy. Serious like he owns 2 mint Superbirds with sequential vin numbers. He has built more Mopar engines than I could even imagine. He said this block looked great and could handle the.060 over easily. Did he sonic test it? No. Do I trust his word as an expert? Yep. So I’m gonna run it and when it splits a cylinder I’ll take back to him for a sleeve.
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Boy I hope you're gonna be ok, but I don't know how it could "look good" without a sonic check. It's like having a bad cough and your Doc looks at your chest and says "looks good".
Maybe those old Mopar Jedi's know something my guy doesn't.

Just hate like hell seeing a guy build a great engine and have a catastrophic failure. Think this way: Would you bore a 360 .100 over without absolutely knowing it was ok?
 
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