rlevs
Well-Known Member
nice work so far and yes weather is warm work fast winter is just around the corner, i don't have heat in my garage cold weather sucks
My 70 Dart
- Thread starter Louie70Dart
- Start date
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Ok, some pictures of where I'm at right now. A little setback on passenger door. Seems that I didn't scuff the door enough between the black primer(rattle can) and a blue. As a result after spraying a surfacer down I noticed there were issues with adhesion. Turns out the paint and all from the black primer up there were no adhesion. I could take a putty knife and very very easily scrape everything off in one nice long continual piece. After I stopped kicking myself in the pants over a dumb mistake I went back at it. I also checked the adhesion in a few other places. If I had to grunt and put all my weight into it to get it to come off, I think adhesion won't be an issue. And I weigh quite a bit more than 160 lbs! LOL. So lesson I need to remember. "If past the recoat window you MUST scuff coating well before applying anything on top of it." A rookie mistake that I should not have done. What happens when you get in a hurry. There are a few pictures.
Forgot a picture of good adhesion. From left quarter panel.
Anybody ever hear of 5 Star Auto body products? I was looking for some more surfacer, and ran across this at the little neighborhood paint supply. It's #5403 primer surfacer. 1:1 mix with either mineral spirits or acetone. Cures in 1 hr at 70 F. I had the door primed from previous fiasco, and wanted to use surfacer again. I've been using Icing, (great stuff), but at 20 bucks a quart it gets expensive fast. This stuff is $30 a gallon. Well, I sprayed this and I thought I may have dry sprayed it, but you can sand it in 30 minutes though. Maybe I didn't, maybe its the nature of the beast. This stuff if super easy to sand. Anything less than 320 is overkill. You'll buzz through it in no time flat. I'm impressed with it so far.
Just an update. I'm using 10P30-8 primer surfacer. Thats the tan color over all of the car. Now it's under some filler that you see pictured. Before and after pictures follow next post.
First pics from drivers side. Before mud and after mud and sanded. I'm wanting to remove the panel line. Guess I'm lazy, 40 year old car, seams don't line up like they should. I don't have the time, knowledge, or money to do it the right way. So I cheated and use as little mud as possible. I know the mud could come out if hit hard. Well, if that happens my feeling is mud popping out will be the least of my worries. Thanks for looking.
Pics from passenger side. Last pic is passenger side rear quarter. Thanks for looking.
rlevs
Well-Known Member
keep up the good work i like the progress
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Interesting. I hope the filler in between the panels doesn't "rattle" out due to the difference in flexibility between the sheet panel and the fiberglass or pot metal caps (whichever they were in '70). You know, like vibrations causing one panel to move more than the other piece. I have NO idea whether this is a founded or unfounded fear, and even to me, it seems very unlikely to happen except under extreme conditions, but... it's just one of those things I think about. It would give an interesting look though, a much more smooth body than normal. I'm looking forward to seeing what it looks like painted, or even primed.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Oh, I just noticed you filled in the valence-to-bumper gap also. Can you still install the bumper without removing the front valence?
LOL. I.......don't know? I should tho. I tried to put bumper on before the valance, but it covered up part of the fender extensions. Had no idea how to paint the part that was covered. I took bumper off as one piece, it can come apart. Meaning the bumper itself will unbolt from the brackets. I think I will go outside right now and give it a quick look. Thanks for the question!
Well, bad news good news. Bad news is bumper will not fit with brackets on. Good news is oncew brackets are off, they fit in nicely. Didn't take phone with, so no pictures. Will take tomorrow. G'nite all.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I was pretty sure I knew the answer when I asked. You can't put the whole assembly in that way. I guess it depends on how important it is to you to be able to do that. If you just have the brackets, you can rotate them to fit them in. At least there's a way to do it, so you're not hosed! 
Now back to the mud. I would like to think it wouldn't rattle out cause muds been used for years on cars with no problems right? Except for the hard hit that knocks it out. But steel gets bent then also. I tried to push it in as far as possible so hopefully it will get a better anchor. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope for the better.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
It'll probably be fine. It's just not a normal use of filler, to bridge two dissimilar materials. I have no idea though. Interesting experiment though.
Ok, attached the bumper brackets and connected the lower support bars for the front part of fender ahead of wheel before spraying. Amazing how those two little arms can really stiffen that lower section up. And yes I'm trying to keep it clean here. LOL. True test of mud cracking will be later after I get the car driving again. Two pictures, one straight on, the other at an angle. Using a cheapo throw away gun with a 1.4 tip for the surfacer. Made some adjustments to gun,(air pressure for fluid and for fan) seems to be better but not great. You can see the striping on the angle. That happened on the cross coat when I went vertical. Unless I get much better, no way to use this with the metallic I plan on using.
Well, had a bug up my butt about filling in the gaps. As the pictures show, I probably would of been ok with the front and rear extensions as they are not even a 1/8 across or deep. The cowling/fenders and the quarters and the back deck is a different story. I took that out, and am going to use a filler with fibreglass hairs in it to help hold together. On top of that, I met a neighbor the other day for the first time, and they knew me as the guy with the compressor. Bummer. So I went and worked on a box to keep the noise down. I think I have something that works. That took up time that I could of been working on the car. Thats done, and back to the car. Gotta keep the neighbors happy. You don't really need any explanation of what part your looking at do you? Didn't think so.
Ok, so I was wrong about filling in the holes for the side trim with bondo. I can push it out soooo easy. Sigh....... I don't want the side trim, so I have to weld the holes shut. Picked up a Lincoln electric weld pack hd today. Had some scrap steel that I was practicing on. Galvanized is not easy to weld, not to mention the fumes that it gives off is bad for you. So, practice, practice, practice until I get happy with my results.
:banghead: Rats, two steps forward, one step back. Looked here in the body, interior, trim section and ran across this link. I'm going to go with this istead of welding. The stick will take some searching to gat, it's not at NAPA or places like that, but you can find it.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/3065/
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/3065/
I am very frustrated right about now. I have access to a MIG, but I keep burning through. I'm practicing on some 18 ga steel that I picked up. I can't see, I have to use one hand to hold the shield and weld at the same time. It's a real PITA just to practice when you can't even see! So that method is not working out at the moment. Next on to the lead, body solder. I was able to get some, but I forgot the flux. It seems all you can get is lead free stuff. AKA called tinning flux? I hope thats the reason why that method is not working for me either. It seems as soon as I get the lead even close to melting, it just runs away. There has to be an easier way than these two. I had to walk away from this for now. Calm down and try again later today, most likely tomorrow.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
You're not trying to weld the galvanized stuff, are you?
No, I picked up some bare steel for practice. Giving it a break for today. Try again tomorrow.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
OK good, don't weld on galvanized, and if you do, definitely read up on it first! If you were closer, we could practice welding together... blind leading the blind LOL... speaking of which, get a good auto-darkening helmet, that might help. If that's not what you're using.
Ok, main issue is a molar thats infected, causing a LOT of discomfort. Which means tolerance level is nil. It goes today. On an antibiotic, seems to deaden the pain somewhat. Now on to the business at hand. Did some practice yesterday with the MIG. Won't win any awards, and won't be making a living at welding anytime soon. But it will get me by. Took some pictures, not a good enough close up. Will get better pics later. I have to disconnect the battery and ground the car when welding on it? Someone who has welded on cars before please chime in! I'm going to practice more, want to close up hole without a lot of extra weld to grind off. Thats the plan.
Dusterdude72
IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE
Just read some of this page and seen you are going to fill the caps on your extension panels to fenders...etc...etc..... id think twice about that....even with fiberglass stranded filler....it could eventually crack through and it would suck if it happened after it was already painted.
if you want some good tips on metal work and body work....check out the build thread I have did on my duster over the last few years (link in signature below)...I bet theres alot of good info in there that you could use.
what kind of mix are you using? a cheapo flux core or a model that uses gas. The trick for what your doing is getting a fine welding wire....I used a gas welder with 0.023 wire. The finer the wire the easier it is to melt the wire into the metal rather than to melt the metal into the wire. make sure you have good clean metal and make sure you start on the end of the hole you are trying to weld to and then either weld in a stitch pattern (side to side) or a spiral pattern....to fill the hole.
if you want some good tips on metal work and body work....check out the build thread I have did on my duster over the last few years (link in signature below)...I bet theres alot of good info in there that you could use.
what kind of mix are you using? a cheapo flux core or a model that uses gas. The trick for what your doing is getting a fine welding wire....I used a gas welder with 0.023 wire. The finer the wire the easier it is to melt the wire into the metal rather than to melt the metal into the wire. make sure you have good clean metal and make sure you start on the end of the hole you are trying to weld to and then either weld in a stitch pattern (side to side) or a spiral pattern....to fill the hole.
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