My Dart Swinger Project!

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I started another thread to hopefully tackle the issue here is what I have tested

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dartfreak75 said:
At least it quit after the break in lol. This was the one thing I was hoping things would go smoothly. Nothing iv done so far has worked the way it was supposed to. I was just hoping this would. Im not sure what im note aggravated about the excessive fuel leaks or the wiring issues.
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Hate to hear it for you buddy. It's nerve-wracking enough after all the work we do, then to hit the key and have multiple problems sucks. My suggestions:
1. Temporarily hook up a cheap electric fuel pump to your fuel system and fix the leaks. If possible use a known good running carburetor.
2. Test your electrical system off line like Dell recommends in Jada''s post from above. At the very least use electrical parts and distributor from a known good running car.
These are systems I would not trust or just hope work on a new engine first fire. Regroup and make damn sure everything is right.
Good luck, man. Keep digging you'll get through it.
 
moparmandan said:
Hate to hear it for you buddy. It's nerve-wracking enough after all the work we do, then to hit the key and have multiple problems sucks. My suggestions:
1. Temporarily hook up a cheap electric fuel pump to your fuel system and fix the leaks. If possible use a known good running carburetor.
2. Test your electrical system off line like Dell recommends in Jada''s post from above. At the very least use electrical parts and distributor from a known good running car.
These are systems I would not trust or just hope work on a new engine first fire. Regroup and make damn sure everything is right.
Good luck, man. Keep digging you'll get through it.
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Thats the thing that is so frustrating. Its all new. I spent the extra money to have new stuff to avoid this very thing. I have a new coil, new dissy, i have a new ecu and a old one i tried them both, fresh professionally rebuilt carb, new fuel lines pre bent and flared from inline tube. Im gonna try and see if i can figure it out. Literally everything that could go wrong has so im sure the cam is trashed and im gonna have to start over.
 
Sucks that you are having so many pain in the *** issues, wouldn't surprise me if it's something simple. Keep at it bud, you'll figure it out, and unless you've been cranking it over steady for a couple hours, the cam should be alright. I've had similar issues in the past and never hooped a cam, at least not yet.
 
missing linc said:
Sucks that you are having so many pain in the *** issues, wouldn't surprise me if it's something simple. Keep at it bud, you'll figure it out, and unless you've been cranking it over steady for a couple hours, the cam should be alright. I've had similar issues in the past and never hooped a cam, at least not yet.
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I was very careful i only cranked it four or five times before stopping but I did that 3 or 4 different times. I never just let it spin and spin and spin but it did get cranked over more times than I hoped for.
 
I bet your cam will be fine. If anything keep and eye on your oil might get saturated with gas. Been there done that with my no spark/weak spark issue.
 
Dartsun said:
I bet your cam will be fine. If anything keep and eye on your oil might get saturated with gas. Been there done that with my no spark/weak spark issue.
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I didn't even think of that good thinking!. Im gonna run some of the diagnostic that del posted and see what happens. I had 13v at the battery 12.7 at the starter relay and only 11.9 at the ecu and 10 at the coil. Which according to del is normal. I guess I could be dropping off when I turn it over.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I was very careful i only cranked it four or five times before stopping but I did that 3 or 4 different times. I never just let it spin and spin and spin but it did get cranked over more times than I hoped for.
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It'll be fine. Don't worry about that part.
 
I have (for the purpose of break in) rental wire from the positive of the battery to a switch and then a wire from the switch to a ballast resistor and then from the ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil...
I didn't read back did you smell gas did you put gas down the carburetor? I know I've said it before but usually a first startup needs a good splash of gas...
Many times while cranking or having someone crank it I've had to turn a distributor quite a bit to get it to fire...
 
j par said:
I have (for the purpose of break in) rental wire from the positive of the battery to a switch and then a wire from the switch to a ballast resistor and then from the ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil...
I didn't read back did you smell gas did you put gas down the carburetor? I know I've said it before but usually a first startup needs a good splash of gas...
Many times while cranking or having someone crank it I've had to turn a distributor quite a bit to get it to fire...
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Yea It was getting gas it was squrting out of the carb good. I prefilled the bowls with a electric fuel pump and primed all the lines so fuel was good. I tested at the plug wires there is no spark. I turned the the dissy quite a bit at first but it wasn't even trying to hit. I can tell when one is trying to start it will kinda hit off and quit this was not that there was no spark at all. I have one of those plug wire spark plugs lights it plugs into the wire then on the plug I did that and nothing. Guess looking back I should have started there.
 
Just a suggestion...I went to fire mine for the first time and....no spark. Dead, nada, nothing. How can this be...everything new including EVERY wire in the car (of course it was my own wiring design and wiring job). So could it be my wiring or the MSD box or the new coil or the new distributor or ??? It could be anything....but if you've got power to the ecu and the coil and just aren't firing it, perhaps your new dist suffers from the same as my new one didi: the reluctor gap should be about 0.008" and mine was set at about 0.080". So the MDS (or ecu in your case) never saw any engine rotation or pulses so never fired the coil. Maybe pull the cap and have a look!
Oh, and did I mention I also had a fuel leak at a carb inlet fitting? Yep, brand new line and gasket...had a pretty good drip going.

This stuff happens to everyone on here. Makes it that much sweeter once you do find the gremlin. Keep going, you will find it. We're all cheering for you!
 
Demonx2 said:
Just a suggestion...I went to fire mine for the first time and....no spark. Dead, nada, nothing. How can this be...everything new including EVERY wire in the car (of course it was my own wiring design and wiring job). So could it be my wiring or the MSD box or the new coil or the new distributor or ??? It could be anything....but if you've got power to the ecu and the coil and just aren't firing it, perhaps your new dist suffers from the same as my new one didi: the reluctor gap should be about 0.008" and mine was set at about 0.080". So the MDS (or ecu in your case) never saw any engine rotation or pulses so never fired the coil. Maybe pull the cap and have a look!
Oh, and did I mention I also had a fuel leak at a carb inlet fitting? Yep, brand new line and gasket...had a pretty good drip going.

This stuff happens to everyone on here. Makes it that much sweeter once you do find the gremlin. Keep going, you will find it. We're all cheering for you!
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How did you fix the inlet leak? I tighten the crap out of it and it still leaked lol. I checked the gap and it's at about. 008. I can recheck it again just to make sure. Thanks for the encouragement it is really appreciated and it really helps
 
Fuel leak was caused by the gasket for the inlet fitting. When it was shipped, it got tweaked. I thought it would seal....WRONG! Had to replace it with an old one I had.
 
Demonx2 said:
Fuel leak was caused by the gasket for the inlet fitting. When it was shipped, it got tweaked. I thought it would seal....WRONG! Had to replace it with an old one I had.
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I can't tell if mine is leaking from the inlet or the fitting. If feels like the inlet to me because its leaking all down the back of the carb. I will pull it off and look maybe it didn't get a gasket when rebuild.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I was very careful i only cranked it four or five times before stopping but I did that 3 or 4 different times. I never just let it spin and spin and spin but it did get cranked over more times than I hoped for.
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Hang in there, I had a lot of cranking, a 15 second run. Stopped for a fuel leak,regrouped, fuel leak tested with a $17 electric pump. Fired again a week later, bad oil leak at oil filter plate, kept going, added oil on the fly. I was nervous as a ***** in church yet, it worked out. Cam is broken in. You got this!
 
I'll first say im not a carb guy, I've rebuilt them with success and that's about it. During my leak search, My buddy Bob Ream / Imagine Injection took my brand new Holley 3310 and milled the bowl surfaces flat on the carb body side. He said they're rarely flat, and that hidden internal leaking causes hard to diagnose problems. Tightening the 1" inlet fittings can be a challenge so, I got new gaskets and reinstalled the fittings that came with the carb which have a smaller 3/4" hex. This meant ditching the SS Tubes set up with smaller tube nuts, no big deal, I adapted out to 3/8" clampless nipples and ran fuel hose from there. Leaks gone.
 
I8NEMO said:
I'll first say im not a carb guy, I've rebuilt them with success and that's about it. During my leak search, My buddy Bob Ream / Imagine Injection took my brand new Holley 3310 and milled the bowl surfaces flat on the carb body side. He said they're rarely flat, and that hidden internal leaking causes hard to diagnose problems. Tightening the 1" inlet fittings can be a challenge so, I got new gaskets and reinstalled the fittings that came with the carb which have a smaller 3/4" hex. This meant ditching the SS Tubes set up with smaller tube nuts, no big deal, I adapted out to 3/8" clampless nipples and ran fuel hose from there. Leaks gone.
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I can't exactly tell where mine is leaking but its leaking from the inlet (circled in the picture) i can't tell if it's the big nut or the flared nut?

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  • Man buddy, I wish I was there to give you a hand
  • I always use a "known good working" carb for break in. Even if you have to borrow one.
  • coolant and tranny leaks can all be fixed
  • I don't think your valve springs and cam are so aggressive that you have to worry about the cam being hurt. I've had trouble on start ups before with new cam and lifters, I've never lost a cam
 
318willrun said:
  • Man buddy, I wish I was there to give you a hand
  • I always use a "known good working" carb for break in. Even if you have to borrow one.
  • coolant and tranny leaks can all be fixed
  • I don't think your springs and cam are so aggressive that you have to worry about the cam being hurt.
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Thanks man. I appreciate it. I got Del helping me out with the electrical im gonna run some tests tonight when I get off work. I'm thinking maybe the battery was the problem (im hoping at least) the carb should be good dana from here built it and ran it for me so it should be ok. I think as soon as I get some spark it shouldn't be a problem. I think the trans leak is coming from the dipstick tube. I took a block of wood and beat it in a little more I will check it out again tonight also. The manifold bolts are gonna have to come out and be rtv(ed) that was one thing I forgot to put rtv on and of course they are gonna leak haha
 
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