my low buck street and strip ride

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Evildart said:
I'm guessing that's were the suregrip came from......:glasses7:
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no actually,that jeep is a guys drag build from another site it was an accident didnt mean to post it.it is the kind of suv i would want though....the suregrip i bought about 5 years ago at a swap in san francisco for 200.00.it was a 323.well going to go get some marking compound to get a pattern
 
bad440 said:
random rearend pics.kinda like the cone type limited slip better than having a bunch of clutch plates.seems like a more positive hookup
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There's probably a few folks that would disagree with you there...I've had both in my Mustang...factory type tracloc limited slip with clutches, and Auburn pro series limited slip. They both worked great in my car. Funny part was the Auburn was in a 7.5" factory rear-that thing took a helluva beating...I kept expecting the pinion to give up.

The factory tracloc in my 7.5" spit out the spider gears after a couple hard launches at the track, but the Cobra spec one in my 8.8 with carbon fiber discs is a brute-that thing has some beefy 31 spline side gears and spiders...and it only costs like $250 new...so if there's anyone wanting a cheap and easily upgradable rear end, an 8.8 is a great way to do it...

Sorry...didn't mean to ramble :D
 
txstang84 said:
There's probably a few folks that would disagree with you there...I've had both in my Mustang...factory type tracloc limited slip with clutches, and Auburn pro series limited slip. They both worked great in my car. Funny part was the Auburn was in a 7.5" factory rear-that thing took a helluva beating...I kept expecting the pinion to give up.

The factory tracloc in my 7.5" spit out the spider gears after a couple hard launches at the track, but the Cobra spec one in my 8.8 with carbon fiber discs is a brute-that thing has some beefy 31 spline side gears and spiders...and it only costs like $250 new...so if there's anyone wanting a cheap and easily upgradable rear end, an 8.8 is a great way to do it...

Sorry...didn't mean to ramble :D
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if i still needed a rearend for my car it would get an 8.8.seems the most cost effective option there is....
 
Don't you have to change the bolt pattern on a 8.8 rear?
 
bad440 said:
or you could be a lame and use a mustang rear and have a four lug dart
:dontknow:
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But yet, in a previous post you say it's a cost effective solution? Hmmm

You are aware Mustangs aren't the only source for 8.8s, and two, 94-up Mustangs are 5 lug, right?

Weird...
 
txstang84 said:
But yet, in a previous post you say it's a cost effective solution? Hmmm

You are aware Mustangs aren't the only source for 8.8s, and two, 94-up Mustangs are 5 lug, right?

Weird...
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explorer's are the closest size for a direct swap. They were always 5x4.5. They also had gear ratio's ranging from 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10

A 4.10 limited slip exploder rear end is a great budget swap.
 
Had the factory cheapo Track Local,in my first 8.8. Clutch packs,seem to die quickly in those.The second 8.8 ,had the Auburn.That's a nice product.
 
bad440 said:
random rearend pics.kinda like the cone type limited slip better than having a bunch of clutch plates.seems like a more positive hookup.View attachment 1714613351

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Mike,you need to drop a spool in that rear.I have a feeling your gonna be...um...destroying either the cone-type or gears.They work good for up to about 400hp,then start having issues.Either way..Good Luck...Get er done!:burnout:
 
Abodybomber said:
Had the factory cheapo Track Local,in my first 8.8. Clutch packs,seem to die quickly in those.The second 8.8 ,had the Auburn.That's a nice product.
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Agreed on the Auburn-were you racing often with your first one? I've known people with 11 sec rides to go a whole season with a 80k mile unit and not have a problem...But, much like an auto trans, you can put in more friction elements and get better lockup.
 
pettybludart said:
Mike,you need to drop a spool in that rear.I have a feeling your gonna be...um...destroying either the cone-type or gears.They work good for up to about 400hp,then start having issues.Either way..Good Luck...Get er done!:burnout:
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I vote spool and they are very inexpensive too. Like 90 - 100 bucks or so!

Guys say watch out for water on the street and that even when you go straight without the throttle the car will turn on you. Well I found out that is another white LIE. I ran the car down the freeway last friday, sunny as all get out and there was a water main break flooding all the lanes on the freeway. DEEP water too. I had no choice but to go straight through it at - at least 50MPH. Car went straight as an arrow and stuck to the ground. I really believe all this crap we hear about this and that. This won't work, that wont work is pretty much all BS across the board.
 
Never heard that one about spools-statement doesn't make much sense either-if you're going straight, how would it kick you sideways? I just figured they were rough on axles...
 
txstang84 said:
Never heard that one about spools-statement doesn't make much sense either-if you're going straight, how would it kick you sideways? I just figured they were rough on axles...
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because if one tire gets on water and slips, there is no compensation and the car kicks. Its why most road cars have open diffs or limit slips.

Personally, i'd prefer a limited slip, but then again i like my cars to go around corners at speed when i'm not racing.
 
TX,ran in the 13's ,junkyard parts no spray. Actually, the Auburn,made me more confident,of the chassis.Your confidence,goes up. Traction,always wins.
 
txstang84 said:
Never heard that one about spools-statement doesn't make much sense either-if you're going straight, how would it kick you sideways? I just figured they were rough on axles...
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A guy I knew a while back ago that hit a slick of water in a fastback mustang with a spool. He says he lost control and hit the center median. Popped a tire and bent a rim when it looped on him. I asked if he hit the throttle and he said no. As of now I don't know if he was telling the truth about hitting the go pedal!
 
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