My new daily driver. 1984 dodge rampage

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moparmat2000 said:
Id recommend a Mopar performance P4452005 headgasket installed dry. Or felpro permatorque headgasket with a generous amount of spray hylomar on both sides
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I purchased the felpro kit from the local oreillys.
 
skep419 said:
i would call the 2.7 junk. 2.2-2.5 I guess I will find out. My guess is the car rusts apart before any major engine failure.

I'm a Vikings fan I should be able to take it either way.
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Yep so is the 4.7 mercedes designed V8 that was thrown at ram pickups. Just look at em wrong and they pop headgaskets.
 
the 4.7 mopar has shitty top end like a 5.4 ford....

they all clatter on start up. it's just what they do after 60k miles.
 
I had a 2.2 N/A that drove fine, was no power house, and a turbo 2.2 that went like a raped ape. Never had any issues with either, rust killed both cars, 81 TC3 and 87 Laser. I got lucky I guess.
 
Ahhhhh, where to begin. When I was working at a CPD dealer in '86, we were installing TSB kits for carb. equipped 2.2's, 2ft. cubed box came w/electric fuel pump,regulator,mech.
pump block-off plate,and revised fuel lines as well as wire and grommet w/instructions. Got rid of surging/fuel vapor lock issues, but not all of them. Bought My Dads '86 Horizon
w/150K on it for $500, put hard lines & exh. on it,pass. frt. hub brg. and parked it /206K on it. Rusted too bad after seeing every salt belt winter SW PA had to offer. The head
gasket started to "burp" after shutdown at 170K, so I just fed it some solder seal routinely like silver crack, kept it happy 'til the end. Oh, the '88 ShelbyZ still has the mill untouched.
 
P4452005 called the dealer to get this gasket and there were non available. looks like I will be forced to use the felpro
 
got the head planed yesterday. everything checked out good. got some parts that were ordered today. cap,rotor,wires,thermostat,gasket. After putting the intake in the cleaner i'm thinking the heater hose going through the intake is dumb
 
About the heater hose going through the intake manifold, Its for carburetor icing. Aids in wintertime startup / warmup. Without it car will run like **** in the cold.

Clifford slanty 6 intakes had that same setup too.

Once they got into the batch fire multiport FI turbos the intake manifolds are dry.
 
Any other tips or tricks. hopefully going back together tonight. I read somewhere (not sure if it was here) to put grease on the carb gaskets. reason I ask is every once in a while I get a loud howling noise that piratically comes and goes. sounds like a vacuum leak around the intake. brand new gaskets.
 
Forgot Ella had her preschool concert tonight. Not going together until probably Friday now.

Heres the head all cleaned up.

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Yup Bathtub head. One final tech tip. Remove this plug on the water box, and install a brass adaptor to allow a standard spin open radiator drain petcock. When you fill it up with coolant leave the petcock open to purge air from the head until liquid comes out, then spin it closed. That is what the steel plug in this spot of the head is for. Thats ALL its used for. I believe it was the subject of a mopar TSB at one time. The threads in the head are NPT type plumbing threads. I got a brass male outer female inner adaptor fitting, and a drain petcock at home depot. Also if the plug doesnt come out, get it really hot with a really good torch, and keep chilling it with sprays of wd40 heat it, chill it multiple times, then put a wrench on it, it should remove easily without pulling out the aluminum threads. Mopars bad idea of steel plug in aluminum head.

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skep419 said:
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Gotta love it. Free fan use it if you got it.

The fan motor bearings went out on my daytona shelby fan going back 20 years ago. I didnt have a spare fan assembly to use, and didnt want to go junkyarding to try to find one, so i took the motor apart, and bought 2 new bearings from local bearing supply place for $2.00 and change, they matched em with a caliper to what i had in hand, i turned the armature smooth, got new brushes from a local electric motor repair house for a few dollars more, and had it back up and running later that afternoon.
 
Choke pull off is not working. Is there an adjustment?

Starts runs like crap until the electric choke opens slightly.
 
Got it figured out. Adjustment screw was behind a brass plug.

 
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