my slant wont turn over!

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CUDAGUY

CUDAGUY

aka Prince Valiant
Joined
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Ok, so after nearly totally installing said engine (72-225, known runner) after it had been sitting in dry storage for a couple years I am attempting to bolt up the converter to the flexplate and got one bolt in and tried to turn everything over (converter spun freely before bolting together) to install the other bolts and cant turn it over with anything, including the starter.

When I swapped the oil pan everything was nice and gooey due to the person who pulled it, not draining the oil first. The valvecover had some surfice rust on the inside (condensation) and the plug look brand new.

Anyone have an Idea what might be making it bind up?

its a 72-225 in a 64 Dart with a pushbutton
 
First, the converter bolts only line up in one postition, here's the alignment marks:

wwitqw.jpg


I would pull the converter to flex plate bolt back out, and see if you can turn the engine with a wrench. If not, align as per the picture---you may need to use a lamp and mirror to see the flex plate mark, then see if the starter will crank it. I would not try this without at least two, preferably three bolts in. Even if they're not tight, get two or three threaded in

Also, have you pulled the plugs? See if you can see anything in the cylinders, and leave the plugs out until you get it to turn over.
 
Yeah, just undo the passenger side motor mount, it'll turn right over. It's already tilted towards that side. lol
 
The marks are in place but I only have one bolt in due to the engine not turning over....even via large breaker bar. plugs are pulled, nothing appears to be in the cylinders other than the trans fluid I just dumped in there....Im at a loss, Bores seem clean, oil was clean, and the engine was a runner when it was pulled. The only 'Weather damage seems to be the surface rust on the inside of the valvecover. the engine was pulled, taped up (oil filter, dist, fuel pump, and ports with duct tape) and sat under the hood of the car full of oil.
 
Not directly responsive to you, but since you are working in the relevant area, now's a good time to mention that you must have the 1/8" annular spacer ring between the '68-up large-bore crank snout and the '67-down small-nose torque converter, or you will eat transmission front pump bushings and seals and may very well have "incurable" powertrain vibrations.
 
I do, I had 10 made when I needed one for the Cuda it was only like $20 more to have 10 than 1 made and I figured Id use them
 
If the torque converter is not seated all the way in, it will bind causing the engine not to spin.
 
its seated, it spun freely while 'scraping' each arm of the flexplate as it turned. anything internal? old dist. gear maybe? timing chain?
 
Sounds like the engine is "locked" up. Keep the flex plate unbolted and try to get a bolt on the front crank (damper) then put a stout wrench or socket on the bolt with a cheater bar. Work it back and forth til you get the engine broke free. I think the bearings may have gotten some flash rust on them from sitting.
Frank
 
the dart that i just picked up had a froze up motor from sitting for over 10 years. i couldnt budge it either, so i used marvel mystery oil (pretty much same as tranny fluid i think) i let it sit in the cylinders for about a week with the plugs just loosely threaded in. went out just to see if i could get it free, and incredibly i was able to turn the motor over by the fan. it just took a little force at first, then moved freely by hand. i think the trick was to let it sit for a week. good luck.
 
CUDAGUY said:
its seated, it spun freely while 'scraping' each arm of the flexplate as it turned. anything internal? old dist. gear maybe? timing chain?
Click to expand...
If you're lucky it's just a few rings stuck to the cylinder walls. Let'em soak for a few days with a good penetrant and try again. Bolt up the converter as much as you can and use a pry bar on the ring gear to get it to turn Going through the starter hole seems to work the best for me. If you can't break it loose that way, the starter's not going to do it. You'll have to pull the engine down and re-ring the thing. Even if you unstuck rings it may smoke anyway.....
 
Im not concerned about it smoking a little or making peak power, I just want it to move under its own power....hell, I want it to be able to stop itself too. Its either going to my sister to use as a driver or its going down the road....most likely going down the road.

the 'breaker bar' I made out of an old front pulley (so I can bolt it to the balancer) and two pieces of 1", 3/16 wall tubing thats about 3.5 feet long and have the option of adding another 2 feet. I did break the drivers side motor mount trying to turn it over this way.
 
CUDAGUY said:
Im not concerned about it smoking a little or making peak power, I just want it to move under its own power....hell, I want it to be able to stop itself too. Its either going to my sister to use as a driver or its going down the road....most likely going down the road.

the 'breaker bar' I made out of an old front pulley (so I can bolt it to the balancer) and two pieces of 1", 3/16 wall tubing thats about 3.5 feet long and have the option of adding another 2 feet. I did break the drivers side motor mount trying to turn it over this way.
Click to expand...

so turn it over the other way...
 
heres a pic of the 'breaker' bar
 

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Ok, still wont turn over, but the damper is moving with the use of the starter.......not much, 2* or so back and forth......any chance that the cam is rusted to the bearings or lifters?
 
Doubtful. Never seen a camshaft rust to the bearings before or the lifters for that matter. I say it's time to pull that pup down.
 
OK, it moved a little more after messing with it this evening. maybe Ill wait another week or so....
 
Man, I gotta tell you, if those rings are rusted to those cylinders that bad,they will never seal right again. The rings are cast iron. The cylinders are cast iron. The piston is aluminum. I bet those pistons have nearbout growed to them rings in a great big rust orgy of epic proportions. Even if you manage to get the engine loose, I suspect the rings will likely not break loose from the pistons. But hay, good luck.
 
once its loose, thers the chance it will run....once running it should rattle things loose.....atleast it theory.

At this point I cant afford to tear it down or get a replacement. I 'Afforded' everything a couple years ago when I found out that the basket case had the wrong oil pan.
 
I understand. I hope it works out for you.
 
Dont get me wrong I do appreciate the help and advice....

Im going at it like....its either gonna get torn down or replaced anyway might as well see if I cant get it to work this way
 
I wish you were closer. I got two good engines I know would run. I would give you either of them.
 
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